I need to change the pushrod tube seals on my baja. do I need to remove the head to do this, or is there some secret uber nifty trick?
Best off to remove the engine and tinware, heads off and fit new German Tubes with new German seals... pre stretch the tubes slightly
Dont buy the cheap brazialian crap or you will be doing the job in a few months time again.
not what I wanted to hear, but thanks...
:cry:cry:cry
you can get collapsible pushrod tubes, which are a lot less hassle to fit (no head removal) but they're not as good 
this would allow you to fit new seals but...
yep collapsible are available but 3 or 4 times the price for a set.
While your there you can give it a decoke and fit new valve guides ( something i should have done last time ) make sure you de ridge the barrells
and re lap the barrel to the heads
and fit new exhaust valves !
bah! I already have the heads off now!! grrr...
oh well...
nahh, I just want to get it through rego at this stage. While it doesnt blow smoke, the bores are glazed and pitted from sitting around, and one
cylinder needs flycutting as it's leaking compression on number 2.
funny thing is the valves are all sitting nice and proud, and no cracks anywhere!
I'm going to ignore all this for the moment though and jam it back together for rego, then do it all properly later on.
I gotta say, working on a baja is soooo easy!!
no tin crap, no bootlid, no engine bay seal, no jacking the car up to extract the motor....I had the motor out in 10 minutes flat. (Had to remove it
anyway to fix the shuddering clutch)
German push rod tube seals aren't all that much better... I bought some neoprene ones from Peter Richards at Valla last year. The secret with
push rod tube seals, is the glue that You use. I use Aviation jointing goo, which is readily available from Repco-Auto one etc.. Even after the seals
crack all the way round, they won't leak if You do it properly, I put the goo on both sides of the seals...
Seals still come off easily when needed...
years later....
"permatex" made by loctite ppl
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use quality contact cement.. cheaper, works fine, stays rubbery, glue inner and outer.. no leaks.. got this from an aircraft engineer who did his time
on aircooled aero engines
tony g
my 2c
Clean clean clean
And put them on dry
Works for me
TTFN
Peter Richards doesn't sell crap....
I have bags & bags of the cheap ones.
The neoprene were expensive and feel totally different to the cheap ones.
But, using the cheap ones with Aviation jointing goo or permatex, and they will NOT leak.... the seals crack but the glue stays put...
Lee
Actually, I bought some outside door handle seals for My beetle from ************* and they cracked day after I put them on... $14
for 2 doors...
I have just bought replacements from Mick Motors $2... and they are hard plastic not like the soft garbage..... I bought from
*************....
Edited by Kruizin Kombi - No need to go there, Lee 
[Edited on 18-2-2004 by KruizinKombi]
can someone please delete the bitchy crap from my thread? I don't care who's aligned with what shop.
thanks kruisin cant believe what goes on here some times. the insulated
nature of enthusiest topics I guess.
What blue74l and vw54 said,dont need no stinkin sealer.:P
Lee I didnt mention where or who i got the seals from ... U did.
I just said there are several qualities and buy the best. pretty simple.
Use the good ones and DONT use sealer at all
Buy once dont pay Twice.
:P
:cussing
badge-bickerers, with all due respect STFU. Thank you.
meanwhile, back at the ranch (Johnny, disguised as a door, got his knob shot off....)......
it looks like, just to complete my irritation with this project, that one pushrod tube is split, and the oil wasn't coming from the seals at all!
Might buy one collapsable tube to get it thru rego. grrr
Just buy the screw on NOT the spring loaded type.
Best of 2 evils.
i reckon it's a good excuse to get stuck into a brief upgrade.... pull the heads and use real pushrods and put better heads on
and split the case and drop in a hotter cam, set of 94's (even though we know they don't last more than 200,000 miles without a hone) and a
CW crank. or a stroker if you're so inclined. come on it's only half a day's work and a couple of weeks of wages
bah, i'll start building that oxyboxer I always wanted
i cheated...a big gob of fuel tank repair putty did the trick :thumb
It all has to be stripped down properly once it's regoed anyway...
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