I have just picked up a 73 Kombi 214 with a blown 1600 twin port engine. Big hole where sparkplug should bein no. 3. The heads are AMC, what are they like normaly? The case is a Brazil made 0483101101A AS41 are they any good? The engine has over heated, it still turns and the barrles and piston look good. it had only been recod. a short time ago. Is there any thing i should look out for?

[Edited on 3-12-2002 by wombatone]

you can have the head welded up again or just get another head and see if it still goes then probably hone the barrels and fit some new rings as they tend to glaze when overheated
marcel

I've had head welded up in the past but is it worthwhile doing to after market heads? Might be simpler to just use standard heads.

Get a reco'd 2nd hand head, as it will probably cost more than a pair of reco'd heads to get it welded.

The AS41 is a universal replacement case. If its in good nick, keep it. I believe (correct me if I'm wrong people) that all the AS41 cases were dual relief ?

Ok ... correct ME if i am wrong but u are both right.
The As 41 and 21 are both replacement cases that are dual relief and the 21 has a higher aluminium content.

get it checked out. pull it down - i "believe" it should be stamped as to what bore it has been bored out to ( it had only been recod. a short time ago ) i take it this means it has been aline/align/whatever bored already.
Check the end play thrust bearing area. I have seen some with 3mm scores in them (oooh er.... not good)
What are you going to build it up to?
stock bus motor?
considered single port heads?

another point to consider
why did it overheat?
was the engine bay seal fitted?
was all the engine tinware on the motor?
timming to far advaced?
also fix the cause before driving with the new engine
marcel

Replace the head(s)

Check the end play in the crank - grab the engine puley and push/pull. If you can feel/see any end play it's probably too much - the nroaml is between .003" and .006" which is VERY small.

Excessive end play means the bearing saddles in the case have started to pound out, and the engine is in need of (another) rebuild. Hopefully not though.

With the new heads on, do a compression check. A fresh 1600 should give 130+ psi and less than 10PSI worst to best. As the engine wears the compression slowly drops - at 100pst or lower on any cylinder, it's time to start thinking new P&Cs.

Make sure you torques the heads right - that case should have case savers and 8mm studs - use 18ftlbs. If for some reason it has 10mm studs, use 22ftlbs.

The AS41 number does indeed say that the case has less magnesium and more aluminium than the earlier cases. Magnesium goes brittle with age, so the higher aluminium content helps prevent case cracking as the engine ages.

I now mention carby jetting because you talk about engine overheating and lean running is one cause of overheating.

Make sure that your Solex 34PICT/3 (I assume that's what you have) is jetted OK - 55 idle, 127.5 main and 60 air correction jerts if you have a vacuum distributor. If you have the dreaded 009 distributor, increase the main jet to 132.5 or 135, and increase the air correction jet to about 80 (helps maintain a rich mixture at higher rpm).

If you have a 30PICT series carb on a 30/34 adaptor, use a 125 main jet and 130 air correction jet is you have a vacuum distributor, or a 127.5 main and 120 air correction jet for a 009 distributor.

None of the above jet recommendations can be considered "exact" as engine age, condition and the fuel used can vary things a little, but they will get you in the ball park.

A 73 Kombi with a 1600 is a little unusual - most 72+ kombis came with the type4 engines. An ex-Telecom van perhaps? - all these had the 1600 engine, and brown trim inside.