Hi vdub wizards. I just need some tech assistance.

can someone let me know the bore and stroke sizes of the 1776, 1835 and 1916 motors please.

Which one would be more suited for use on a splitty bus. I am 'green' as far as vdub stuff goes but have been told that the 1835 is not as strong as the 1776 or 1916.

Others have said the 1916 gets hotter than the 1776.

Finally..what are the basic ballpark horsepower ratings without going to far re speccy bits. I want to have twin carbs. i hear webers are better than dellorto's. re parts and jetting etc
Thanks all and behave OK as I want info and not a bunfight

Have a look at Wes site motor hp out put .
the cost of a 1916 6 K next joke ! subaru it you have the room irs it as well , seagull
Dont was your $

subaru ej20 or 22 say with 80k on clock $1850.00
sort the ECU out including freight $400.00
adapter plate $600.00 and cradle $300.00
thermo fan set up $350.00 this is my cost so far ( trike )
you would need the add the following items as well

Irs kit ?? $600.00
and for bits I left out $1500.00

say $6000.00 it will last longer than a Vw go faster than a vw pull a trailer run on Unleaded fuel and you need to change the plugs ? 100000 ks my book says .
you can see why the conversions are been done . seagull

And if you keep the vw motor stick in the left lane !

mmm for me take the cradle out I made mine . less $300.00

1600-69x85.5mm...1640-69x87mm...1776-69x90.5mm...1835-69x92mm...1916-69x94mm. Capacity-stroke x bore as you can see there all the same stroke just different bores,for a bus the safest bet would be 1776.The only diff between the rest are the thickness of the barrels and theres not much diff really.Yeah 1776 with twin Kads or 40mm webers would be a nice engine.

an EJ20T is a good and cheaper alternative to a big cube VW motor. the technology in a modern motor eclipses the VW type 1 motor.

however, the fabrcation needed in a bus or beetle is a lot more than a trike, unless you want to butcher it. It isnt going to be an easy job to put it in a splitty.

Also upgrading to a subaru motor or any other high power motor would require upgrading the suspension and transmission components to be able to put the power to the ground, especially so in a heavy bus. so factor in upgrades to the drivetrain when you are thinking of a high power engine. Also brakes, steering, wheels/tyres should be upgraded to suit. this could cost as much as the engine

a 1776 or 1916 would be good for a splitty, and wouldnt be too expensive. around $3-4k or so complete.

the 92mm cylinders which make a 1835 have a bad reputation, because they have thinner cylinder walls and tend to leak and deform in use. the 90.5mm & 94mm cylinders are thicker than the 92's.

[Edited on 27-4-2004 by Che Castro]

but leaving the subaru out of it....
*checks topic*

I'm running an 1835 in my splittie at the moment, only till I save enough for a rebuild. I will then change to the 90.5's and maybe a stroker.

The 92's I have are a forged set, and I haven't had any problems overheating (yet), and I'm not going easy on it. I will have to wait and see how they go in terms of leaking and warpage.

Hi,

I have ran a 1776, an 1835 and a 1915cc motor in the past. The 1915cc was my favorite of the VW motors.

I now run a jap motor, and frankly would never go back to VW motors.

But you asked about bore and stroke sizes, here is a pdf that will help you. The 3 sizes you mention all use 69mm crank.

http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/wes/enginesize.pdf

[Edited on 29-4-2004 by Baja Wes]

I dont recall this guy asking about soobaroos? Some people like the dellortos over webers because the idle jets are easier to acces and they do block up.

I have had a 1776 and you can make them get up and run fast enough to make your car a lot of fun. Seem to be the conservative option too as regard the case handling the barrels. Conservative will always last just a bit longer.
Twin carbs are worth the effort too. Just a world of difference. Luv my dub!

In a bus, if you can afford it I would go 90.5 x a stroked crank ??? The stroke will provide more torque. I will be building a 74 x 90.5 in a couple of months, the basic specs on this are 40 x 35 041 heads, 74 crank, stroke relieved stock rods, 44 webers, 1 1/2" exhaust, 8.5:1 compression and a engle 110 cam. This is going into a super, looking for a daily driver not to highly strung its not a bad way to go.

Weber vs Dellorto ?? The dells are getting harder to find in good condition. I have used both and like the dells better. The idle jets are easy to get at, they are a better design (float etc...) and have a better progression circuit (idles to mains - 5 holes vs. 4). The dells are still available new in the UK but $$$$$ the webers are more affordable (still $$$) and readily available. The weber castings look like sheeit IMHO. Dellortos have a soggy idle adjustment, webers are crisp. The dellorto was based on the idf with improvements (so the story goes) Personal preference and what you can find really !!

oh ive probly asked this before but here goes, what machining is needed for either of the 3 options, and are SP heads OK to use, i meen open them up for better breathing and add duel carbs ....... i only ask this as theyh give better torwue, which of these 3 motors offer the most torque aswell???

Thanks for the help guys. I kinda feel I will go the 1776 or 1916 option if I find one for sale as I am not in the know just yet to build one myself. The Suburu sub plot is interested but the problem is that it is a lot of work and tho very usable the originality problem it poses is somewhat difficult to overcome. Yeah I know the splitty busses did not come out with 1776 or 1916 but at least they are air cooled.

If it was say a bay window I may be tempteed to go the watercooled Suburu route.

One thing that was not mentioned is what kind of horsepower does the 1776 and 1916 dual carb motors produce?

Dyno stats,1916-55.9hp-67.5hp-78.9hp-83.3hp-91.8hp-108.8hp-111.6hp and the latest pobjoys at 120hp,which tells you exactly almost nothin,7 different cars all 1916s and hp from 55.9-120,i have a feelin the 55.9 is std head,carb and cam.And Blue74ls mild 1776 put out 62.1hp at 4600rpm.So there you have it if you buy a ready made 1914 if you get 80hp yude be lucky unless THE MAN built it.

1916s and 1776's rock

stroking really wakes it up but it costs

hey im building an 1835 at the moment and was thinking bout stroking it but i was wondering what is involved in doing so

I have my 1835 in at the doctors because the cylinder walls are too thing and bored them selves into the heads. Loking at the 1776 option although the thicker walled 1916 sounds pretty good. I want to tow my farrier trimaran to the water:sandrine

any one know any sites with horse power for stock vw motors?
cheers

What can I say but that you all have been really helpful. Thanks for all the positive info.....and for the fact there has been no sledging. I have settled on the 1916 option so will have to look out for one. I have been offered a really good 1776 as well with all the gene Berg bits and fid it tempting too. ..Some have said much re the Suburu watercooled option...I cannot go down this line. The departure from originality for my splitty is just too great and they are getting too rare to stuff around with even if the Suburu watercooled's are a great motor....but then so is the Ferrari v12...where does one stop??

I've rung Stan and now need to sell one of my kids to a rich sheik for lifetime servitude ...any rich Sheiks out there?

One thing I have always wondered is how long do heads last on 1915's ? Seeing as the clearancing required is 2mm larger than for 92's, and the cylinder head bolt holes are actually exposed in most castings, I have always wondered if they are more prone to crack due to the sharp corners introduced when part of the hole is exposed?

Any one had that experience ?

For info sake, I built my 1835 before finding out everyone reckons the 92's dont last. I've put about 10,000kms on it so far without any worries - it breathes a bit of oil / crankcase pressure, but that is due to my driving habits (5-6000 rpm, counterweighted crank) and the fact I have insufficient breathers on it currently.

If I start to get blowby problems with the 92's, I will probably stick a set of 94's in and freshen the motor up.

hey what sort of machining is needed for a 1600 to 1835 or 1916 motor cause u buy the cylenders with the pistons dont ya so is it just the case and heads????

yes.