can any one help with info on type three rear end ,do they bolt in or are they welded and do they bolt straight into a splitty ,to remove the drop axle and get some reasonable highway speed
david:o

[Edited on 8-12-2002 by david]

Type 3 rear end is not suitable for a splitty, I have seen one fitted with T3 trailing arms and modified spring plates and it was all wrong. T3 brakes are too small as well.

You would be better of using the modified trailing arms from a late model kombi, Indian automotive do a great kit, and Custom Bugs and Busses do one as well.

Beck,

True for the Type3 IRS rear end but the earlier T3 swingaxle rear end is the best basis for a straightaxle (swingaxle rear end with no reduction boxes) conversion.

The gearing is good and the brakes are bigger than the beetle drums often used on these conversions. Swingaxle T3 rear end also has the long axles which are required. Still retain the wide 5 stud pattern too.

Put on a bus nose cone, lengthen some 'short-ended' axles tubes, modify some spring plates and off you go. Does lower your bus tho....

RobK

hey rob
im gonna go with a 1500 swing axle type 3 box cause of the obvious reasons. can you just use the spring plates out of the type 3 or do u have to modify???? can u give me a run down on what i will need to do to pout in that box into my splitty.
cheers
rhys

Rhys...

If you do go the TIII conversion....I would suggest you look at using the TIII axle tubes & early bug "short" axle tube end castings...They are a press on fit...And I think you can use the TIII spring plates....The torsion bar splines are the same! I have done some rough measurements and I think that is the best way to go...This set up will lower the car an awful lot...You have been warned!

Have a look at my mate Antony's bus on my web site for proof...His car has home brewed restacked front spindles and modified avis adjusters...And yes the steering box can be adjusted to sit on the ground!!!

how much does it infact lower it ????????i only wanted it to be around 3 inches!
cheers
rhys

Humpster (!),

I'm not sure you can make em by pressing
apart? Basically there are two types of axle tubes - 'short' with short end castings and 'long' with long end castings. Difference in length is about 2.8 cm.

What you need for the conversion is an axle tube exactly the same length as the
long axle tube but with the short end casting. I've always cut and welded (under the axle boot) to do this (ie lengthened a short axle tube with short end casting)...

Now if you press the long end casting off a long axle tube the tube that's left is actually pretty short (because the axle casting is long) and if you just pressed a short end casting onto this tube I don't think you'd get the length you require....

Similarly I have always modified bus springlates to the short end casting bolt pattern (the type3 plates could go though - never tried it, but for some reason I don't think it would be THAT easy). Also have to radius a little notch in the top of the plate (where it will knock against the bump in the mount).

Springplate angle for a stock bus is 20 deg. Most people go to 7 deg with a straight axle conversion (about a 3.5 inch drop). I think with a bit of machining on the drum snout and careful measuring you could get away with the midpoint of about 16 deg (2 inch drop).

Given stock busses are a bit arse down anyway a 2 inch drop in the back with dropped spindles in the front (3.5 inch) hopefully should given a moderately lowered nicely 'raked' stance...

You also have to mount the T3 backing plates upside down (for handbrake to work) and replumb (lengthen) the brakeline to reach the wheel cylinders. Need to make a spacer for the handbrake cable.

Its not that difficult really.

RobK

hello again
that info was great so i know which way to go, now the front end if i want to go disc brake will a 71 front end fit in or do i need 68-69 wilth discs of a later model and a drop spindle set (i want to acheive about a 3 inch drop
david:o

The only front end that will fit easily would be a 68-69 bay this would make the front 2 inches higher, then you would have to turn the beam or fit adjusters.
To lower it enough to have a 3 inch drop the suspension would be at its limit and you would have a crap handleing bus.
The easyist way is to keep the original beam and get a set of dropped spindles from Rob(splitbus Australia).
They drop the front 3,1/2 inches and you keep all the standard travel,
Why do you need disc's, what size engine will you be using?
The standard drums in good condition should be o.k for an engine upto 1600.
Cheers
Dave

thanks heaps rob and people its real handy!!!! i plan to lower it around 2-3 inches in the rear and get a set of you spindles for the front!!!!!!!
it sounds complicated for a novice like myself but will eventually understand!
cheers
rhys

I just finished sticking a 68 bay front end into my old panelvan (I sold it to a mate!). I had this frontend in my old bay years ago with disc brakes. I rebuilt it with the adjusters I bought from Kim (Indian Automotive) to get it nice & low (the bumper is now 4" off the ground & can go lower!) It ride real nice with plenty of travel still in the ball joints. The tyres he is running are 175x60/14 on stock bay rims (about 560mm dia). We have adjusted the rear, 2 splines with the bull gear rear end......IRS to go in, in the new year!...And yes, we do need disc brakes....A supercharged 1600 is going in next year too! Besides....You can never have too much braking...Even you "old grannies" out there!

That's great stuff Rob. Thanks, I think you've helped me decide which way to go with my bus. Problem is I wouldn't know where to start and would have to have the job done. Any recommendations as to who I should speak to and how much it should cost to do front and rear, without compromising the ride.

I don't know who could do this - Probably the perennial favourites Indian and Custom Bugs and Busses are worth a try. I think CBB does straightaxle conversions but Indian is more IRS minded (and it is a good conversion but more expensive). I don't think either does dropped spindles but prefer the adjuster front beam...I must admit that while I think their IRS conversion looks well engineered (although a bit of a pain to set up once done they're good) I have a real thing about super lowered beams on adjusters (I still think 3 inches on adjusters is about it...)

I must point out I was describing the 'straightaxle' conversion for the DIYer. It is a low budget conversion and should cost no more than $400 to $500 in parts for the DIYer. BUT it more suited to those who DON'T want to drive their busses at 80 to 100 mph. Rather do around the legal limit without the whine of reduction boxes and the motor howling at peak revs. Also lowers the bus of course for those that are into that look.

I can do the dropped front spindles and supply them to you but realistically don't have the time to work on other peoples busses - I'd love to but I think we'd starve if I gave up the day job.......

I have no idea what CBB or Indian would want for the job - mightn't be that far away from an IRS conversion?

You can also get a tranny built with a higher ring and pinion and keep the reduction boxes .... the stock look (height) with a 'freeway flyer' gearing. Price doesn't look so bad when you compare to what you'll pay for an IRS and front beam conversion.....

RobK

so what do u charge for the dropped spindles rob????
cheers
rhys

My dropped spindles are $450 on an exchange basis.

Core charge is $150 if your old spindles are too knackered to be rebuilt.

hey
thanks rob i plan on sending down mine to you when i get the money organised etc!
do u need a deposit for them floor sections?
cheers
rhys