While reassembling my rebuilt engine (we are doing it ourselves this time) i have noticed an interesting event with the tappets.

I have adjusted all the tappet gaps to .008 as per normal adjusting the gaps for cly 1 then moving to #2 ETC.

Everythign seems fine except that when the cylinder is not the one firing the gaps on tappets increase to more than 3mm

This engine is fully rebuilt with a semi race cam ?

is this normal ?

i dont recomend 8 thou but try 6 or even 4 thou cold.
having just built my engine with a biggish cam i must say i have had no dramas there. just check it all again.
what pushrods are you using?

Its standard pushrods.

I always use 008 or 006 (on a worn in engine).

As the bits get hot they all expand and if you lose the gap you start burning valves (not good that ):bounce:bounce

You SURE you aint 180 degrees out or something.
When you are firing then they are closed. Period. This is when they are set to 6 thou. I agree 8 is fine for a fresh motor.
SOmething is seriously wrong if you are getting 3 mm - that is 120 thou! (i think )
Either you dizzy is out or your push rods arent seating properly in the cups - OR SOMETHING!
Please triple check and tell us what you found.

I think you will find you are 180 out, you are doing #1 when you should be doing #3.
I think 008 is to big, too noisy, I set stock push rod engines to 006, or 004 and check them offen.
I set my chrome moly push rod engine to 000, no gap, just so I can turn the push rod

I once had a cam with similar valve clearance inconsistancies.
Some regrinds have a poor curve on the base circle of the cam. It is possible for variations in the valve clearance as your follower moves around the base circle of the cam lobe.
But do check you have No.1 firing correct as noted prev..
I am also not keen to set the Valve clearance more than the 6 thou required. The valve clearance is to allow for expasion when hot. Funny isnt it how crome molly has different expansion characteristics to that of standard alloy ones. That is why they can be set differently.
As Wes mentioned some time ago, to acertain the valve clearance for chrome molly rods - get engine to Hot operating temp and open rocker cover , set tappet clearance "Ouch".
and then check when all is cold.Very little clearance is required.

Figured out i am prolly 180 degrees out...
thanks guys

:bounce

tho i would still rather have noisy tappets than burnt valve seats ..

Just being an old "mother"

Do the old pencil trick.
take #1 plug out.
Turn the crank so as the pencil is fully pushed out and both valves are closed
What osition is the rotor pointing to?

Woozy

just reading on STF where a bloke is having trouble tuning his new motor and cam alignment was mentioned.

You "DID" line up the dots didn't you? :o

dots are in the right place .... i was thinking last night that somehow i may actually have been 360' out as i tried the pencil thing and the cylinder was at top position


anyway i think its sorted now

Quote:

Originally posted by Woozy anyway i think its sorted now

motor is still not in car


staying away from home atm

prolly early jan before she is all running again

then i go back to scaring street cars

:rudolf:beer:party:party:beer:beer:beer
:beer:beer:beer
:puke:puke:puke:puke

:bounce:bounce:bounce

OK I've got my shiny new tools, a set of overalls, a copy of How to keep your VW allive and a first aid kit.

Reckon I'm ready to have a go at mine.:bounce

(I'll be back in about 3 hours when its all F***ed up)