I think it will just fit with a bit of gunst and fliegwerk? Ideas. Need a rusty 1973+as a donor. The motor should make it lengthwise by about 30mm and width by about 20mm each side. If anyone has a 1973+ rusty rear floating around it would be a bonus.
Hey I have just put a 2 ltr in my '61 Pick up, it fits, just! the engine lid will have to be 50mm off the end of the back !
There is a few other problems to....
Throttle cable on th FI is on the other side.
i know this is a contentious subject, but for my money i'd rather build a type 1 1916 than muck around with fitting a 2L in a split. nothing against type 4 engines, i love them and have had many, but it is a major hassle fitting it into a split screen
1916 is a time bomb, and fitting a t4 is not that hard, the only problems I had was because I wanted fuel injection. You have to see the type 1 powered owners faces when they drive it.nn[ Edited on 15-7-2005 by s1fter ]
A built right 1916 is less of a time bomb than a used type 4 engine!!
| Quote: |
They will go in but it is tightish and there's bits'n'pieces of clearancing etc.
If you convert to upright cooling you don't have to offset the engine lid
or cut up the rear valance too badly. I still wanted heat so I had to modify
the heater box inlet pipes so they came up through the rear valance.
I was going to use two bay bus heater fans to drive the heat but since I can't
get this thing warm enough (has external oil cooler - anybody got a thermostat for a reasonable price?) I might go to a shroud
with modified heater outlets..


Quite tidy underneath too. IRS converted, heavy duty
tranny mounts and straps, oil cooler on the left electric
fuel pump on the right.

You can get the stock exhaust on (don't like big noise
exhausts) without shortening the heater boxes. You
do have to take a bit out of the bottom of the rear
bumper for clearance.

Pic of rear engine hanger mounts (also boxed the chassis here).
Note I've had to clearance the rear bumper bracket
a bit to get everything to fit...

It's time consuming but not that technically difficult and they do go in quite nicely!
regards
nn[ Edited on 15-7-2005 by splitbusaustralia ]
thanks splitbusaustralia for the pic's. looks like a nice tidy install.
And yes they do go quite nicely!!
The engine lid now closes fine on my bus with the standard t4 fan, the cross member was a breeze and the tinware also, don't know where you guys get
all you hang ups about the T4?????
| Quote: |
1916 V's T4 put to one side.
How are you getting on "tdegens" with your install??
I have had the motor in and it looks pretty good and the lid will just clear the standard t4 fan housing. The lid will need a few cuts and additions.
Putting in the bay tank as it is fuel injected so will use the cover between the tank and motor. Now working out the best option to make the tinware
fit as I might use the airconditioning pump provision on the left of the fan housing.
Oops logged in as my daughter. (Tom Degens)nn[ Edited on 17-7-2005 by butidontunderstand ]
The t4 motor is now ready to go in next week and I have no idea how the engine lid will look like as it will be a little different. I am going to put
in a later bay engine lid as it is a bit shorter to allow for some modifications to the valance and rear bumper set up.
How have you gone s1fter with getting the t4 into the ute?
tom