I was wondering if anyone had any tips on installing adjusters. I am considering trying this as I have a spare front end lying around.

And out of interest, how much should I expect to pay someone else to do it?

Pat....It's very (relatively!) EZ to put adjusters (SwayAway or AVIS) in your front end...Obviously the frontend is the same as the one in your car...(LP/KP or balljoint)...Just remember...When you cut your beam...Do one beam at a time...Measure the width you have to cut, then do it again. Mark the beam then then measure again, cut inside the line, you can make sure it's a good fit with a file/grinder later. File/bevel the edges of both the beam & the adjusters to give the weld a little more "bite". When you postion the adjuster, make sure the adjuster is set at the highest adjustment and centred in line with the stock grub screw hole.....Tack weld it into place. Repeat process on the next beam. Theres a bit more to it than that...but you'll get the idea.....

I'm in the process of writing up a tech article about this for my web site...If you can what until the new year I hope to have something up soon!

So as far as welding goes, should I weld in one long bead, or should I stitch it until I've filled in all the gaps? will it be okay to use a gasless mig for this?

hey
kimm garland says not to weld along the bottom and top edges.
he also says tack it in each corner then weld all along bothj side edges!
cheers
rhys:tree

Don't forget to take the torsion leaves out first and give it a good clean inside,welding on grease isn't ideal.

make sure you only do one beam at a time and cleaning is most important

Pat....

Depending on which type of adjusters that you use with determine where you weld...SwayAway types need to be welded around the circumference of the beam...With AVIS adjusters you only weld done the sides. re Rhys suggestion. Personally I prefer the AVIS type more (I have fitted both types including Kimms ANGUS Bus Adjusters)...Far stronger as you don't cut the beam in half...Just slot the grub screw hole. As for welding....Tack first, check your measurments again, then short strip welds, weld on opposite sides of the previous weld until you have completed the radious. You have to keep the heat out. Gasless MIG is fine as long as you are a reasonaly competent welder. And as DB says...One beam @ a time and keep it clean inside & out!

Any clearer?

Just remember...Keep the measurements clean, the beam clean, shampher the edges and mark where everything goes (ie: leave spring orientation L & R, bump stop location, grub screw location, etc...)...Take photos if you not sure of you memory!

Good luck!

hey
do they need to be welded in any cirtain position??????
cheers
rhys

I don't know if I've seen the avis type adjuster, just the sway-a-way, I'll have to get a look at them to figure it out.

Absolutley KK Son of Jim...I always set the adjuster grub screw at the highest setting and align the grub screw where the original was located...an easy way to do that is, after you have stripped the beam and b4 you cut anything, scrib a line through the center line if the locating grub screw paralel with the beam...That way, after you grind back the paint for welding you can easierly see where the screw was located!

As for where you can get the AVIS type adjusters...The BERGS in California sells them...As do a lot of other suppliers in the US now. Check you latest Hot VWs magazine! And I think Boris @ Vintage VDUB Supplies has them too...Though I would think most VW speed shops would be able to get them.