hi just a quick one has any one got one of those type 1 oil pumps with the oil filter attached to it like the one micks motors sells
my question is
dose it fowell with the tin around the pulley did it go in with no mods and was it dear or should i just tap the oil gallery and pump housing and go remote
travis

The filter pumps put the filter very close to the exhaust and would heat the oil to some extent. It is a much better solution to tap the case and have the option of running a cooler as well as a filter.
Nik

http://larrysoffroad.com/item106440.ctlg 

bolts onto where the original oil cooler is, you have to run an external cooler with it tho.

saves you drilling and taping the case

[Edited on 22-8-2004 by Chewy]

Chewy, that's what we call a by-pass filter arrangement.

The device in question was designed as a cheap way to add a full-flow filter to an engine. Detractors claim they cause an unacceptible drop in oil flowfrom the pump, as the oil has to make a sudden right angle turn to get into the passage to the filter, then make another right angle turn through a similarly reduced gap to get back into the engine to do some work. It seems logical to me - it's a bit like plugging up half the outlet hole in the pump. The manufacturers will tell you that the extra pressure created by the oversize gears makes up for the restriction, but I wonder how much extra load this puts on the engine.

Experience wise, I only ever ran one for a short time on a manx-style buggy - so I never had any clearance problems (though I could see that they would exist with stock tinware and body,) and I changed it out because the inappropriate materials used wore excessively by the time I stripped the engine. BTW - the stock DP 1600 went back together with little more than a new stock oil pump and a set of bearings (plus the flywheel oil seal and missing end-play shim that set the rebuild off.)

I was talking to a knowledgeable VW fellow in the US, recently, about adding oil filters and I said that the spin on oil filter over the pump was being used quite a bit over here... He said they weren't liked over there, neither was the bypass oil filter & oil cooler system..
The only way to do it properly, was to tap the block...
I always thought either of the above systems acceptable...
especially as I believe a filter is 100% better than no filter!!!

Lee

With that ersion that Chewy has shown, I take it that the inlet and outlet flexible tube connect from there right? so where is the usual location to mount the filter and the housing it screws to? The heat from the headers would no doubt still radiate heat to the oil lines to and from the 'remote' filter yeh?

after asking around and the fead back from here i brought a 3/8 npt tap
and have taped the hole and taped a thread in the oil pump and locktited
a grub screw in the out let of the oil pump now this is done i can finaly assemble my motor

If you religiously do an oil change every 1500ks a fillter is not needed, isnt that right? 16 bucks for GTX2 does two changes, and it takes what, 20mins, so why would you bother.

well im thinking about when you spend $2000 on a motor that you want the most out of and drive every day spending that extra 120 bucks is cheap in the long run and services can be done every 5000 kays so if the motor last you 4 to 5 years then you got your money back on that extra 120 plus all motors should have some sort of filter thats my thorts any way

Yes, that is the Best way to go.... The other problem with VW air cooled type 1 engines is that they don't have an oil seal at the rear crankshaft pulley... just an oil slinger...
that idea should been slung away years ago... 1939???
If any dust should enter the engine oil via this slinger....
and no engine oil filter to filter the dust.... well....

You should be able to get a seal to fit the engine housing and have the pulley machined to fit the ID of the oil seal....
What do You think??? Its better not to know I believe....

Can anyone say whether dust can get past the oil slinger ???
with the engine stationary....??

We are actually using more oil thru more oil changes because - Dr Porsche thought We didn't need an oil filter????

Lee -- [rear= rear end of car]

well.

mine came with a standoff filter on supposably a high flow pump.



at the end of the day, there was no proper filter on the machine froim factory and it is one of the most basic motors known today, so i'm not really worried about such esoteric notions as exhaust header heating the oil or slugish oil flow when cold.

the most basic thing for a basic motor, whaterver you do, based on my high revving air cooled small oil capacity dirtbike experience is -
use a quality oil often (try to use the same brand) & a clean oiled airfilter.

change airfilter & engine oil often as often as poss.. thats the deal.:beer