Adz, My notch is a 69 Auto, with a 1835! Goes nice! The autos a pretty strong! Having said that, you probably shouldnt try and drag ppl!! hehe A guy here in Melbourne has a 2l in an auto, and he has had no dramas whatsoever!!!!

But it does depend on how good condition the trans is in!!!!

Hope this has helped. N!

No Idea! Why not go for a 1914, or a 1835!? less stuffing around!!! Even a stock 1600 with duel carbs go ok!!!

Adam

Don't go down the 1835 path. Anyone that knows anything about 1835's will tell you you will be buying a whole lotta trouble.

Thin walled barrels = distortion = excessive BLOW-BY

[Edited on 9-1-2003 by 56astro]

I havent had any trouble with mine!!!! Its a daily drive, and had the motor for a year, not one drama!!!!! Everyone has different thoughts on all things, so really you should do what YOU really wnat to do, not what we want you to do!!!!

Anyhow!:bounce N!

type 4 = expensive!!! well cheaper in the long run since they last for ages, but its a high initial outlay if u modify it.

Stock type 4 is a good idea, lots of torque from real low. Buy a good used one and whack it in and u have a nice goer.

I recently did a 1600 SP rebuild, i got

-Good used case (std size)
-re used old crank and rods (both std std)
-all new bearings
-new p&c's
-new cam & lifters
-re used pushrods
-rebuilt heads
-re used rockers
-new pump
-full flow stuff
-German gasket set
-sandblasted and powdercoated warm up flaps and thermostat

plus i had to buy a torque wrench and some other things like solvent etc.

All up it cost me about $1700. I built it myself with help from "how to rebuild your aircooled VW engine" by tom wilson and some phone calls to v-force.

its really satisfying to rebuild ur own engine. If u want performance go with a stock type 4 or similar, its a shame cos i remember someone had a 2056 for sale not long ago for about the same price as a 1600 rebuild

If you live up to that promise I reckon you will be the first male teenager ever to do it.

Im 32 and I still put the foot down to go faster than a kombi should. Just cos I can. Even on my own. Actually more when I'm alone so I dont get told off so much by Mrs Amazer.

Adam,you should brace the chassis, as the huge increase in torque will give you problems in the long run. Plus the T4 is a little heavier than the T3 motor. At least run a rear mount to take up the extra weight of the engine.
If you can put in the frame horns, it will certainly help.
Cheers

[Edited on 10-1-2003 by Flintstones]

I'd think that the rear mount (properly done) should be enough. Go for the type 4, you'll probably pick up a good runner from the wreckers for $500 if you look around, just take a compression tester with you :thumb

hey
we recently picked up a wreck (well marcel did for us) with a fully rebuilt 2L: motor and good cond 2L box (1 year old been sitting that long) for $500!!!
cheers
rhys
p.s. ill give u a run for ya money us son-to-be "L" drivers.ahahahahaha 1600dp powered monster vs ur pussy foot 2L auto notch ahahahahaha

ahahahahahahah all in good spirit!
cheers
rhys

there are many articles on this changeover and they all add extra support for the much heavier type 4 engine

if u want some of my links email me but they arent hard to find

:bounce