its prob been answered 100 times before but i didnt find it in a quick search so:

is a compufire ok with a gt40 coil. ??????

thanks anyone...

i think i heard somewhere that u would have to use a standard coil as the GT40 gets to hot but i could be wrong. someone else will know

Hmmm... i cant remember now - but there IS a difference.

When i put my Magfire in it said you wanted a coil with
a) 1 ohm
b) 3.5 ohm

resistance.
Buggered if i can remember which one it was :jesus

hokay then, another qu.

how many ohms resistance is a gt40 or which terminals do i use to measure its resistance.

do i go across the + & - or do i involve the HV dizzy lead somehow???

straight across the pos and neg

I will check it & advise. thanx.

gt40 will be no good.

it says i need a high impedance (resistance) coil of 3-5 ohms not one of 1 or less ohms.
just tested it and the gt40 has a 1 ohm resistance.

so anyone have any ideas on an appropriate replacement??

yeah - the BLACK bosch coil

NOT the standard Blue Coil

Once upon a time so,e one posted here that they worcked for Bosch and the different coils were resistance related

Blue - points
Black - electronic

I think the serial is SE 12

yep - Its a SU 12

Black and is 3.5 ohms

I just measured it

i have been using a 009/compufire combo with a bosch gt40 12volt coil for years with no problems.
cheers,
rick

thanks all.

i think i will still get a high resistance coil in my next order from a forum sponser as it's better safe than sorry and i can keep the gt40 with the points and condenser in the spares kit to cover any electrical fry action far from home.

[Edited on 5-10-2004 by fetid_swamp]

I had a compufire equivalent (magnafire?). First I ran it with a GT40R, but it overheated after 20min of driving and stopped. was ok once cooled down. The GT40R is meant for cars with a ballast resistor.

I then went to a GT40. Never had a problem since then. (eventually sold that motor).

A Sports coil such as the GT40 - draw substantially More current than a standard ignition coil...
to obtain their higher output voltage.. which can result in overheating...

It may depend on where the coil is situated , such as under a closed engine lid [without vents]
... or under a late model engine lid with vents - or open at top etc.. or Baja...

Lee

[Edited on 6-10-2004 by 68AutoBug]

hokay,

what about this:

http://huelsmann.us/bugman/RotorTech.html 

can you not just buy a rotor with a bigger resistor? you would think they would manufacture something if this was a standard problem.

Good job,
that rotor won't burn out...
I did buy a new rotor without the resistor from the US..
Was more than double the price of the original VW rotor..

Everyone should carry one of these for a spare...

especially if You have a High Energy electronic ignition system..

Lee

A local had one burn out a few months ago...
Had to be towed home....
His father found the problem...
The rotor burnt out while being driven...

so, it can happen....

PS. I do believe there is a replacement rotor from a different car that does fit the Air Cooled VWs distributors...
with NO resistor....

Lee

I fitted a compufire unit into my old oval fitted with 1600 SP. The standard Bosch Black coil died in a very short time. It has to do with the duration of dwell. Perfect with a hall cell. I.e. the points (hall cell) are on (closed) a longer time between opening. This cased the standard coil to over heat.
Changed to a Bosch electronic coil (non ballast resist) and had no more problems.

The Compufire unit is money well spent on a VW engine. Starts faster, idles smoother, dunno about extra power never checked it on a dyno. Saves pissing about with points every 3000ks too.

[Edited on 8-10-2004 by Grey 57]