Hi there thanks for dropping in,ive pulled my engine by myself twice now and its not getting much easier,ive got bentley haynes scientific and tom wilson manuals and two say jack the rear 3ft then pull it and the others say pull it drop engine and lift the rear clear.Well i reckon the 2nd option is easier but i still have to tilt the engine a fair bit to miss the generater shaft and thats after the belts off,this is on a 67 1300sp beetle,any tips from those that have been there?P.S. the first time i think i bent something theres a whining noise coming from the engine that gets louder as i speed up,clutch maybe?

Engine removal and replacement is always tricky. You just have to tilt it where it needs it to get it past certain parts and bodywork.

Its better off with 2 people one on the jack and one tilting and holding the engine.

Tricky all bloody right!

I've done mine by myself and found that I just had to be very patient. What made it worse is that it is a 1600-size engine (1916) into a '56 engine compartment. The tappet covers are really a tight fit, not to mention the extractors and other bits.

I used a trolly jack, bottle jack, 2m crow bar, tyre levers. Virtually anything I could to get the right support and leverage.

Jack the rear of the car and chock the front wheels. Loosen the engine and start to pull it out while supported on something. Once it's sitting on the ground then jack the reat high enough that the fan housing clears the wheel guards, then slide the engine out sideways.

Easy as that!

:thumb

You can make things a bit easier by making the engine slightly smaller first.

Take off the rear tinware before you pull the motor out or put it back. Take off the fanbelt and generator outer pulley. Loosen the distributor and turn it so the vacuum doesn't catch on anything.

I've even resorted to removing the exhaust, heater boxes, tappet covers and even the rocker gear to make things easier.

I had a 64 beetle, and being a fiddler I often pulled the engine..my trick was I drilled the welds off the rear apron and made it removable ..every time I had to pull the engine i'd take the bumper
off,loosen the bottom rear 3 bolts of the guards and pull the apron off!!!! then you don't need worry about jacking the car (except to undo engine bolts when your low) the engine pulls straight back! I recommend this if you are a serious dubber and are going to do your own work ..this idea I got from the split screen kombi's, the rear apron removes with 4 bolts, makes it a one man job to do serious engine work

DOH!

Forgot to mention the bit about the rear tin ware. Sorry

I jack em and drop em. I find it easier to work on with its ass in the air anyway.

[size=4]Always have the Car on stands and never get under a Vehicle that is just suspended on a jack... Hydraulic Jacks can go down at any time... Ihave a bit of a think every time I use My trolley jack on how to make it so it can be locked into position in case the Hydraulics fail....[/size]:o Its a Good habit to get into, by using Car Stands all the time... I never do when I'm changing a wheel, and I always think of what happens if the jack goes down... where are My hands & knees etc. I have never heard of a VW jack going down.... anyone....:thumb

I have never found it easy... it IS best to have two people drop the engine down...
I haven't taken My engine out since taking off the rear apron and replacing it with a removable fibreglass apron...
Must be easier!!! I'll tell You in a few weeks time....
I hope You didn't bend the main drive shaft... the books say to be careful... but I have never bent one and sometimes the engine is hanging on the shaft.... Do You have free play on Your clutch bearing??