How easy is it to put a kit through a carby? I'm talking a basic VW carby, not a super-wonderful high-tech spiffy carby. Apart from buying the kit and sitting behind the car......

Or, is it better for a mechanical gumby to just put it in to a professional for them to do?

Does the carby need to be done while fitted, or can you remove it and repair on the table?

I should preface this by saying that I haven't done a VW carb, but I have done a Honda carb and so the same principles apply.

- Yes, it was easy to do. The only things to be aware of is that there will be a few springs and little bits that want to get away and hide in dark corners and that your kit may have bits that do not fit on your carb (they often make one kit to fit a range of models).

- You have to take the carb off and put it somewhere that you don't mind getting petrol, etc on and where you won't be disturbed. I did mine on the loungeroom floor of a share house - perhaps not the best choice!

- Also, do the work somewhere clean. I ended up with something blocking the drilling that let air in at idle. Result - no idle!

[Edited on 28-2-2005 by mnsKmobi]

Find out what a rebuild kit costs and what a pro rebuild will cost. Keep in mind that the pros can do things like rebush pivot shafts that most amateurs cann't. If your carbs are fairly old and worn it may be worthwhile paying the extra money to have a pro give them the once over.

If you decide to DIY. Most kits come with a set of instructions including pictures of where things go. Installing the kit itself is easy, the most critical thing is cleanliness. Even the smallest bit of crud can block up a jet or drilling. Get yourself a couple of cans of carb cleaner. Don't use cloths as the lint or fluff can easily clog things. An old toothbrush will be more than enough along with the cleaner. Use compressed air to blow the cleaner out.

i did my first carb pulldown and put kit through not long ago. i got a BIG sheet of cardboard and stickytaped all the pieces down in order, with a few lines drawn to remind me what went where in what order (still following the diagram that came with the kit). i wrote the corresponding numbers off the instructions on the card board, and circled the parts that would be replaced from the kit, so i wouldnt get mixed up with the extra parts in the kit i didnt need. tested it after i finished and all was fine
the kit was under $50, and the friendly mechanic up the road used their air hose to blow it clean for me

[Edited on 28-2-2005 by akean1]

a solex 28 - 34 pict rebuild kit cost me about 35 bucks a few months ago. from mick motors.

the kit did not come with instructions.

if u take the carbie off the engine and sit it in front of you. as u take the peices off set them aside in order and on the same side of u as they came off. then as u come to the gasgets when u take the old one off match it to the new one in the kit and place it next to the part.

do this for everything and then get your toothbrush and some thinners or carby cleaner and get everything looking like new. one peice at a time.

when u have everything shiny blow the jets and passages out with compressed air and start to reassemble in reverse order to how u took it apart.

easy!

try not to lose parts like the little rod that the float pivots on etc.



my idle air screw replacement that came with the kit needed a smaller spring than the old one so i reused the old screw.

also the kit supplied a new clip for over the float however the new one was plastic and i liked the look of the origional metal one better.

Nick

If I decide to get a professional to do the carby, do they need to 'test' or 'adjust' it in the car when its done? Or can I safely just take the carby to them and pick it up later, knowing that all will be well (unless they have stuffed up somewhere)?

it will need to be tuned after reassembly, has to be running for that. if you think your proffesional is likely to lose parts or take short cuts:cussing, find another profesional. it looks daunting with all those parts on the diagram, but if you keep everything lined up in order, its pretty easy. and rewarding when its done, and you've still got enough cash in your pocket for a shiny part for your motor or some beer to reward yourself for a job well done:beer

If you DIY, my advice would be to count the number of turns all the way in for your idle adjustment and air/fuel mixture screws before removing them.

This is assuming the car is running okay with the carb at the moment.

So eg. for mixture screw screw it clockwise counting number of turns (usually around 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 at a guess) and write it down. That way when you reassemble, at least your adjustments are somewhere near the mark when you try and start it up.

A can of carb cleaner from autobarn etc works wonders too! Compressed air will help to blow all the crap out of the passages as well.

Alan