Hey, I know this topic has been up before but I cannot find it.

If I sand blast my chassis, what would be the appropriate paint(s) to paint it in. I would like a nice shiney black at the end. I remember seeing one product mentioned which is about $70 a litre!

Also how often do the bushing need to be replaced in the IRS cars, as I am not too keen as it costs about $150 for new bushings if I get them from america.

Thanks for any help.

Tim

The paint you're referring to was most likely POR15 (http://www.ppc.au.com).

[Edited on 1-3-2005 by andrewh]

POR15 is the $70 stuff and highly recommended. One litre with do top and bottom of chassis with plenty left over. It goes a long way.

IRS - or any other - bushings don't need replacing too often but you can use polurethane that will last almost forever.

[Edited on 1-3-2005 by VWCOOL]

a cheaper alternative to POR-15 is killrust, it dries to a durable but malleable finish.

If your going to sandblast your chassis you might as well just get new bushings for the rear end as its a lot easier to do it now than when the body is back on. That is unless the existing ones are perfect

There is also a product being advertised in the Samba's banners at the top of the page, http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/Automotive/Automotive.htm 

This stuff claims to be better at adhering to metal and require no special treatment prior to painting.

POR15 looks great- but you have to dilligently prepare the surface with their products if you want it to stick properly. Its falling off a lot of the surfaces I've put it on! Oh and the advertising says battery acid won't touch it ... well brake fluid certainly does!

I've also use the Wattle kill rust stuff, its cheaper and easier to deal with and gives a good finish.

Cheers
Jeremy

Get the bushing locally it's cheaper.

They are like 1/2 that price for Empi poly ones from Mick Motors.

If you can get your freshly sandblasted chassis home without excessive handling with greasy fingers/hands/tie-downs, the prep for por15 will be pretty straight forward.

It really does work best over bare metal and not etch primer (I found that out the hard way). If I had my time again I would have just etch primed and sprayed it in two pack.

I sprayed my previous beetle's pan with gloss enamel and it was very hard wearing. Just m 2c.

Alan

hey what about that thick tar like stuff anygood?
and someone did say there wasz something way cheaper then por and just as good?

okay,

ive' heard of a product called penetrene. U can use it as a rust inhibitor, and also directly to the paint, tomake it go further and stop rust further.

Now, I heard about it from someone in the industry who swears by it, BUT he will only use it on his cars. he said the reason is that his bosses use what is standard from the mercs and BMW,, and won't go off that course.

But he uses it on his cars, and his friends.

He says it also helps paint stick better when used in primers etc too.

However, I am yet to use it on my car, as I am only at the fix the rust stage, btu do intend to use it when I get there.

Also, I will be using Motosport bruch on sound deadener, recommended by sten guns, and putting it on the floor, wheel guards, doors and back panels.

It is supposed to help keep sound out, as well as rust. I am using it purely for sound aspects, and the penetrene is supposed to stop the rust problem.

ALso, penetrene can be found at Bunnings, paint shop etc etc....and comes in brush on form as well as spray, and it dries clear, which is why u can add it into ur paint.

So as my friend said, if u paint to stop rust, then add a little (per instructions) to ur primers and paint, u end up with about 6 costs of rust inhibitor on ur car.

hope it helps.

Also, if I recall correctly, it is about $25-30 per litre. Might be wrong, but I think that is price approx.

check it out when u can get a chance.

I made a thread a while ago

http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=27729#pid224304 

I ended up buying the Barmastic which came to $80 including thinners for 4L of paint.
I've done one coat brushed on and it seems to be pretty damn good, although I read on a government site on the interenet that it can deteriorate after around 7 years (They use it to paint oil rigs and bridges)
However that report was not specifically on Pro-tec Barmastic but on a paint of the same type.
Dont forget bridges and oil rigs are not in the most paint friendly enviroment.

wooooooo 300 posts :P

301 now...

302.... NOW!.
this could go on all night :P


Edit
or 303...

Better add something to make this post worthwhile.

DEFFINATLY get your chassis sandblasted
I cleaned mine by hand. FECK ME!
Do not do this, it will make you hate the site of that chassis!

My mate got his blasted for about $100 I think
Deffinatly worth the money

[Edited on 3-3-2005 by Chewy]