Ok, I'm taking the big dive and doing it.. i cut the line at the pedal cluster (in the tunnel) and the front part cam out, no probs.. but the back
portion? bitch! I've tried to hang onto the part that protudes from the rear fork with a pair of multi grips and then force it out with a hammer, but
I can't seem to get enough leverage with the body on. (engine's out).. anyone got any advice to make my life a bit easier?
Prost!
Prost,
Have a look at the Inside a bug pics at my club site.
If you have any queries email/u2u me
Mine came out okay with vicegrips but admittedly the body was off. Maybe try drilling a small hole through the section that comes out of the fork at
the back, put some tie-wire through it (strong stuff not cheap $hit) - maybe then you can loop it and get some more leverage that way?? Just don't
drill the hole too close to the end of the original fuel line because it may just rip through the thin wall tube.
No idea if this will work, just another idea. :duh
Hey Grahame, I've had a look at your site already =) and I've tinkled with the two front tabs that hold the lines in - they seem to be loose enough
to not be binding the fuel line. The third rear one however, doesn't seem to have any room for the fuel line to even move a little bit sideways...
i've tried to jimmy the tab open a bit with a screwdriver via the access panel undr the rear seat, but not luck...
PS: Prost means 'cheers' in german!
I might have to try that Dasdubber if more hammer doesn't reap me any love..
oval TOFU,
It's probably the tab that's welded under rear torsion tube - it wraps around the heater tube as well. The fuel line may also be binding on that
heater tube. You may be better trying to pull it forwards.
PS I knew, I has a "Stella" in my other hand!
lol I like Stiegl better... Saltzburger bier!
Forwards? aaaah.. don't know if I can get the leverage.. But I suppose if I break it free from the binding tab, I may be able to pull it out from the
rear after all.. I hope
[Edited on 17/3/2005 by oval TOFU]
Hey Dasdubber, did you have the hammer the crap outta your vice grips or did it come out relativelyeasily?
I was under the pan painting it at the time but my mate managed to get it out without too much trouble. You can U2U him (063bug) if you like, I am sure he wouldn't mind as I don't know what tricks he used but I don't remember him using a hammer :o
Does it really have to come out?If it is U/S just cut the ends off where it comes out the pan each end and run your new one alongside.I have run a new 8mm and 10mm fuel line in the tunnel along side the original-just drilled new holes in the fork and the frame head for the new ones to come thru.In fact I used the original line to tie the new ones to at the back as far as I could reach thru the inspection cover.If you look up the tunnel from the front-near the pedals is a welded in tab to keep the original line low enough so it doesn't foul the pedal shaft- make sure you get your new ones under that,takes a bit of fiddling.
hmmm.. thats a thought nbturbo.. I'll consider that if I cant remove if on the weekend and if swearing and fist shaking at it won't help...
Cheers
oh geeez.. if there is a hell for VW lovers.. they would be made to change fuel lines and clutch cables all day long for eternity....
I finally managed to get the line out with lots of throwing of my weight around and then making a 'harness' from 2mm tie-wire to pull at the
multi-grips (andin the end, used a block of wood and a mallet too)... well, thats the easy part done, now to get the new one in....
good thing this weekend is so long!
btw, happy easter to everyone!
I just fed a length of copper pipe through.. brought it out next to the clutch and throttle tubes, I think... many years ago
rejoice! I did it! With the help of a mate, I sqeezed the bugger through the tunnel (even got it through two of the original retaining tabs!) and placed a tough nylon sleeve around the rear end of it to protec it from scuffing on the clutch and heater tubes. Shit that was epic (for me anyway. Other people would have done it in an afternoon probably) so now, only have to contend with a wheel bearing, master cylinder, new brake hoses, exhaust stud, siezed left wheel, install everythign i took out..................................