when we got our 1st (76) Kombi it had excellent brakes, very light pressure- our new one requires much more pressure & being an auto you have to apply concious pressure to keep it from creeping in drive.
I actually changed the front & rear brakes over from the other one, no difference, which just leaves the master cylinder & booster, the booster IS the larger one but the master cylinder is an after market one, gold coloured & with one line going out the passenger side, one line going out the drivers side, unlike the proper one which has both going out the drivers side, COULD it be a problem with the booster or are these aftermarket ones wrong ( the pedal also has more free travel which I can't get rid of, about an inch (nearly 3cm)

The first point:
Have you had a look to see if the "one way valve" that should be in the vacume line from your engine to your master cylinder is in their?
And the second one:
I have replaced my vacume line with a teflon vacume line (Harder tubing), and with the harder tubing this has decreased the "spongie" feel when under brakes and has made it feel.....better, more feedback! I think this may be due to the heavier and harder tubing that does not flex/pulse when under a vacume............therefore a better feel!
(If some one else out their can explain it better...........)

Hope the above helps in some way.

Cheers

Mick

I checked that the valve was there & working OK, but I might try swapping it just in case , where do you get the teflon tubing from? my Vacuum tubes are pretty damn hard from age, they dont leak or collapse but I am sure they will crack easily

you wont get spongy brakes from the vacuum tube. Pressing on the pedal doesnt effect the vaccuum line at all.

Hi Chris, the brakes aren't actually spongy & work very well, the problem is the amount of pedal pressure required, especially to hold the vehicle stationary,
will you be at Volksday?
Kim, (A guy, even though I have a girlie name)

Maybe the booster is knackered. Under the front wheel arch is a metal pipe. Dirt collects on top and rusts it through. See if that is the case on yours. If it is then your problem will be the booster. It will have water in it. Could still be a problem with seals in the booster even if the pipe isnt rusted. Change the hose to the booster first as its the cheapest option.

I am almost sure I'll be at Volksday. KombiKIM is ok. I have problems the other way :P I think I must just assume everyone is male until proven otherwise.

everything looks fine externally, & clean, the booster is an ATE, the only suspect thing is the o-ring seal between the m/c & the booster when I seperated them a bit to have a look, it is sealed properly now but I am sure it wasn't at some stage. I have a grotty but working m/c & booster sitting on my spareparts Kombi, I will try & diagnose by substitution but it is a horrible messy job.
I agree it is safer to assume somebody is a guy