i will need to replace or rekit my carbies very soon but seeing what else i could use instead of stock carbies and if anyone knows any for sale. It is a stock 2lt motor out of a 73 kombi.

People have successfully used twin webers, kadrons and dellortos. The webers are expensive which has got worse since the factory strike/closure.

Whatever you do don't go to a single progressive weber (until I'm ready to sell mine)

I had twin dellortos and I found them more trouble than they're worth.

Yes you do get more power, but maintaining and keeping them tuned is a constant pain in the ass.

Unless you know how to tune and maintain them yourself they will cost you a fortune.

I have standard twin carbies for over a year and have not had to touch them.

Kadrons from Stan Pobjoy's Racing Engineering if you 'need' more carb... or get yours rebuilt if it's a stocker

I'm going throught the same process at the moment trying to find the best way to go to get more power with reliability and so far it looks like Weber 36 or 40 IDF's but I'm also open to suggestions!

I still have standard carbs on my 77 but they are a pain to keep tuned, so I'm going to go with fuel injection. Better economy and reliability I've been told.

First of all. The stock setup is very good at hauling a Kombi around. They are efficient, quite, and work well. They will give you more torque then a bigger carby upgrade. All round perfect for hauling a Kombi.

But if you must play with Carbs. DO IT PROPERLY. That unfortunately means spending money.

Get the best carbies you can. Make sure there is no slop in the shafts, if there is get them bushed. No matter the history buy new carbie kits and re-kit them (you can do this yourself) buy a book on it. There is a book that covers both Dells and Webs. Set the floats, and the fuel pumps to default levels.

Rebuild you dizzy while you are at it. A shagged dizzy will never tune properly.

Buy the best linkages. They are incredibly important. I would recommend getting rose jointed linkages. Rose joints are IMO better then ball joint linkages. Set the spring and the throttle pull to be in the same spot if possible to save flex in the linkages.

Use all new fuel hose and new fuel filter, drain the old crappy fuel outta your tank and fill it up with the fuel you will run your car on all the time, or the worst fuel you intend to use (unleaded not premium) you must tune the car to run on the worst fuel you will use, if you tune it to run on PULP then fill it Will ULP it will ping like mad.

Get the car running as best you can. And then ring up a reputable Dyno tuner (that still does carbies) in your area and book an appointment. Give your car to the Dyno tuner for the day and get them to tune it. they will change jets, tubes etc and set timing.

Pay your money. And drive home, feel the power.

And the most important point.
DON'T FIDDLE. Don't touch timing, jetting, idle jets/screws. Don't touch anything accept maybe the idle speed screw. You have just spent the $ for a pro tunned setup, you CANNOT DO ANY BETTER. If it's not right take it back.

The only way you can tune a car to run properly is on a Dyno. The dyno guys put a knock sensor on your block, and oxy sensor up your exhaust and change jets to tune it out based on the numbers across the rev range.

You can't tell the tune of a car by the colour of the exhaust etc anymore as unleaded fuel burns differently. you need an O2 sensor.

I agree with MikeM,
I had a set of 44IDF Webers on my '77 delux micro with warm 2ltr engine, bought them new, they were jetted and tuned right from the start, and never needed touching since instalation, my wife used to drive it around, drove like a stocker, and gave better economy.
You get what you pay for.

put kits thru your stock carbs first and make sure you rebush the shafts check all your jet sizes and put in the correct ones give it a thorough tune then see if you need extra-------if they are done right you wont touch them for years