[size=4]I have updated the lights in My vehicles with Narva +PLUS 50 which are the same wattage - but VERY bright [50% brighter on Low Beam & 40%on High Beam] due to a special coating and Xenon Gas in the Bulbs.. They are VERY White & Bright... and the same Wattage.. I have Hella H4 [golf7" with P43t Bulbs] headlamps in My Beetle and I'm not sure what bulb fits the standard VW headlamp.. but they should still be available... or convert to Hella 7" H4 headlamps.[/size]:o:thumb:bounce

Higher power globes draw more current. If nothing blows right away check the wiring from the headlight / high beam switch (and the switches too) with your hand and you may notice it heating up (warning: it could also burn you). Generally higher power globes require relays, and relays have reliability issues. They are best used on a separate secondary circuit.


Also the bluey / white light is better reflected by fog making it more blinding.

I've been using the H4 55/60w halogens in my bug since they first came out in about 1974 (I bought this car in 1970).

They are a straight swap for the standard 40/45w VW headlight, - using the same double step P45t base.

(You can get them in 6v versions to fit older bugs too.)

They put out about twice the amount of light as the 40/45w bulbs and probably just a little more than the 75/75 replacement "normal" VW bulbs, but as Lee says, the lights are now much whiter.

The small increase in current (from the normal 40/45 watt bulbs) is no problem for the wiring - the fuses stay the same rating too.

It's interesting that they are advertising them as "xenon" bulbs since ALL standard electric bulbs (12/24/240 volt etc) use xenon as the main gas in the bulb - it's inert so it won't allow the filament to burn as it heats up. All bulbs are actually under partial vacuum with only a little xenon gas in them.

The halogen bulbs though - have a small amount of iodine (the halogen) in them - about 2% of the total gas content I think. The halogen allows the filament to be run about 50c hotter than a normal bulb. This temp would normally cause the filament to start vapourising and sticking to the inside of the galss (the brown stain of a blown bulb) but the presence of the halogen gas, and the small bulb size which makes the "glass" very hot, prevents the vapourising tungsten filament from depositing on the glass - instead it redeposits on the filament.

So with the higher filament temp, you get a HUGE output in light and in the whiter part of the spectrum - less red/yellow and a little more green/blue.

Re the small size of the glass bulb - you might remember the older name for these bulbs - Quartz Iodine. The glass was made from clear quartz so they could makes the bulbs smaller - closer to the filamnet, and run it at very high temps without melting. And of course the Iodine refered to the halogen gas content. These days the bulbs are noramally made from Hard Glass, which is cheaper the Quartz but can withstand the higher temps OK.

Incidentally - NEVER touch the glass part of these bulbs with your fingers - hold them with a tissue or wear gloves. The natural oils on your skin will bake into the glass at the high temps they use, reducing the light output and reducing the life of the bulb.

So what would you recomend as a upgrade replacement for the old bulbs in my Kombi
I have the original headlight reflectors and glass.
Rob.....

There's also Xenon gas Discharge globes
http://www.hella.com.au/technology/tech_frset.html 
"twice the light with half the power" from the hella catalogue.
The Halogen + Xenon bulbs put out 30% more light for the same power but don't require the separate electronics the Xenon gas discharge globe require
http://www.hella.com.au/  and look in new products

You completely separate the reflector from the glass lens - then just untwist the tabs on the arms of the shield and it pulls out of the reflector.

I've been using 100/90w halogens in the Bus for about 8 years and had no ill effects. I am running a heavy duty 40 amp rated double relay for them. This combined with the 2x 100w spotties makes for comfortable night driving.

In the EH I have 130/90W halogens in Hella H4 7" replacements.
Now that was a big change from the original 7" sealed beams

I have been using Narva 100/110w globes in my beetle (72) for 2,5 years now and no ill effects.

Drove back from Echuca to Melbourne with high beams on for the majority of the journey and all is well. No overheating or hardening of wires.

I have no relays. Totally stock. Works fine

Cheers
Tnate

I had normal Q/H H4 globes 55w in my Carello 5 3/4 " lights in my 64 Humber Super Snipe, & they were very good, when the Xenon/Platinum "blue" globes became cheap enough I bought a pair of 55w & was absolutely astounded with the difference, I wouldn't be without them

Hey Hell bus
How dose the alternator handle it, I have 100/75 halogen globes and if I run all my other electrical stuff I can go into deficit, Kombi's only have 55 amp alternators, there was a place doing 75 amp coversions out of a T3 Kombi, but apparently it was frying rectifiers.
Any advice on saving or getting more amps!
Rob........

I haven't used the flash-1-A-1 new xenon bulbs yet but am keen to try.

I will agree with all those that said a move from the original bulbs to 55W halogens. I've just put in some second hand headlights with those bulbs and the difference is great.

Just a note on all the electrical discussion. The Wattage on a bulb is a measure of the electrical energy it uses. This is what will effect how much current it draws. A grotty old 55W filament bulb will draw exactly the same current as a brand new xenon and kryptonite (just kidding) bulb that may produce many times as much light. 55W is 55W and that's that. Just like those flourescent bulbs that you can buy for the home to replace normal light bulbs. You used a 12W flouro to replace a 60W or 75W normal bulb because the flouro transforms electical energy into light energy much more efficiently than a light bulb.

Hope it helps.

BTW is there any easy way to get the headlight glass and the rubber seal around it back into the plastic bit that goes onto the back?

Arthur.

One other point on the 'blue' bulbs, when I looked into them I was told they don't stand up to rough roads as good as halogens, so I steered away from them for the Kombi. That was a few years ago though.

The alternator and regulator handle the power ok. The spotties and high beam are not used at idle, so the battery doesn't drop down.
In 10 years of having the bus, the Alternator and the brake booster are the only two things that have never been replaced.

[size=4]I can't see ANY difference in the NEW Blue & White Xenon bulbs Now.... and after just reading ALL the replies, those using the 100/90 watt bulbs or 130/90w bulbs are using Everything to excess IMHO ... I'm sure if You change to th Xenon plus 50 , You will have the same brightness, and Your poor old alternator will thank You..... [/size]:o:thumb:bounce:bounce

Now I'm going to be pedantic:

Xenon and Krypton are halogens (inert gasses) Iodine is not.

(I knew my undergraduate studies in Applied Physics would come in handy for something.)

Power is the product of potential (voltage) and current - any bulb of the same wattage draws the same current.

The original headlamps in a VW are so tough (good old German engineering - they could teach the Japanese a thing or two) that my car has bulbs of twice the power (wattage) of the originals and they're going strong. It came that way and I haven't got around to upgrading the wiring, 'though it would be a good idea.

P.S. Has anyone come up with a good idea of where to mount some driving lights on a stockish Beetle? Or should I get a pair of Lazers (sic) and mount them on the roo-bar?

stock headlights are 40/45W, and yeah i'm aware of the benefits of halogen.

....but reading the other posts, seems the problems are mine alone. so i'd better check voltage at the front, the other factor possibly increasing current draw. :puke

[Edited on 1-3-2003 by bus914]

I'd read(in Open Road I think) that Xenon headlights require the installation of Primer capacitors(kinda like those used in flouro lamps), I think there might be Xenon bulbs with built in capacitors now though because otherwise those bulbs you installed wouldn't have worked, Xenon lights normally take about 11kv to light them up.

I think I will change to the newer bulbs after reading what we have here.

I only used 130/90 on the old EH because 10 years ago it was the only way to get brightness without putting spotties on.
Using 6mm (6mm is the squared area of cross section of wire not diameter) wire and twin relays was how I wired it up.

Yes it definiteley would have worked the alternator.

Eric - your info came out of left field; halogen bulbs as used for headlights are still incandecsent: the halogen (be it Xenon, Krypton, Argon, Neon, or the other one) is used to enable a higher filament temperature and, in modern bulbs, produces a secondary emmision. They do not require any start circuit, but the headlamp must be capable of handling the extra heat.

OK so everybodys talking about how good these Xenon bulbs are, I want some! where can I get some to fit the Kombi I have looked around the auto shops no luck, next stop Repco, any where else?
Thanks
Rob.....

Try Ashdowns. I know they sell Xenon spotties.
Always been to scared to ask a price.

Repco are usually pretty useless these days (sadly, they use to be the greatest - 20-30 years ago.) Try Coventry's, Marlowe's, Auto-One, or Opposite Lock - it's a pretty standard bulb. Take one in and have them physically match it - it may not show on their charts, but standard VW Lights are quite up to handling the heat (The silvering may peel off some imitations.)

hi there guys,if you want to know about lights and what not ,y not talk to paul,he is the president of club vw sydney and runs a auto electrician shop in riverstone.
ring him on 02 9627 1874,he will tell you all whats best.......
cheers:beer:beer