Ok talking 74 L bug (curved windscreen).
I will have my 2180cc monster engine refitted soon and i wanted to know where the fuel line/s run.
Is it a big job to pull them out and fit bigger ones?
Are they rubber or steel or both?
I was thinking i could release the lines at either end, and then pull the line out with a long peice of string attached to the original fuel line and the other attached to a new larger diameter line, and then simply pull the new one thru (provided they are mostly rubber or similar).

Is it this easy or am i hoping to get out of it too easily?!?

James

The fuel lines are made of Steel all the way through the tunnel section.

They are also tagged and held with brackets so you wont be able to drag it out very easy.

James I just fitted a new 3/8" s/s solid fuel line to the Speedster tonight.
It was going to be a real trick to thread it in the original position in the tunnel so I bent the new one to fit neatly in the "C" section around the edge of the floor pan front to back.
I have left the original line in so I can use it later as a return line to the tank if I fit fuel injection.
I suggest a solid line as opposed to a rubber one.

its much much easier to replace the fuel line when the body is off the pan. Otherwise you can run a line through the cabin, or drill some holes and run another one through the tunnel. Oh yeah make sure its steel and use grommets at the openings

Damn Dave i thought i might be dreamin...
:P

Running a line thru the cabin - is that legal!?? They stopped a guy at last years nationals who had a rally golf from getting on the track coz he had fuel lines in the cabin....

Speedster - sounds good. Tell me do you need a return line for fuel injection?! I didnt know that as i am going to go injection in the future when funds allow.

I'm with you, I wouldn't run it in the cabin (it will also be high pressure as ur reg will probably be at the carb end) and yes you were right, I did see a guy not pass scutineering last year because of that.
Yeah use the original line as the return line back to the tank. I'll post an image of the install if you like.

That would be great if you could post a pic when you get a chance!!

James you need the return line to allow non used fuel to be returned to the tank.

Most systems pump heaps of fuel to injectors, as they only use as much as needed according to throttle opening.

Roger that Dave - ill defiantely leave the original line in then for the fuel return line (for down the track), and fit a second larger line externally under the car.

Actually you will want your return line to be the same size as the supply line. If it is smaller than it will strict flow and increase the fuel rail pressure slightly more than it should be.

I ran two new 8mm fuel lines through the tunnel. One supply, and one return for the EFI. I then used the original line as the fuel tank vent to carbon cannister line, since I need a carbon cannister now to get the V6 conversion legal.

I pushed the original line back into the tunnel, and then die grinded the hole out big enough to fit all the fuel lines through.



I hose clamped all the lines together to stop them moving around in the tunnel. Just make sure they don't hit the shifter rod.

I exited the fuel line around the original shifter hole. Because of my 6-rib gearbox I had to step everything sideways as you can see. I also clamp rubber over the metal line where-ever I thought the metal might rub on something.

James yes what Wes says would be correct to have both lines the same dia.

But i know you will have your PEDALTOTHEMETAL all the time and there wont be much ( small amount ) of fuel returning to the tank.

Yes if you have the time install to new lines same size.

:beer:beer

Why not just run another line through the tunnel, in parrallel, and join them to a larger diam tube before reaching the carbs?
Then if you ever do go for the EFI option, you will already have the two necessary lines installed.

Just thinking
Tnate

it used to be, and i dont know if this is still the case or not, that with CAMS you were allowed to run the fuel line thru the cabin on the proviso it was secure and that THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO JOINS IN THE FUEL LINE IN THE CABIN.

This was the case back when I used to rally and supersprint but check with the governing racing body before you go nuts doing it.

I'm converting my Beetle to EFI, and thought you may the answer to a Q of mine becuse of your current research for your conversion. Basically I'm throwing up between modifying the tank in my '66 to include an integral swirl pot (as in Julian Edgar's book), or simply using an external surge tank that I already have. I'd probably prefer to use the external for cost reasons, but was wondering, with the external swirl pot can I forego the low pressure pump to fill the swirl pot if it's mounted below the level of the fuel tank? If not, then I just go the internal pot to K.I.S.S.

Cheers
Peter

Peter,

Julians book is excellent. To answer your question, as you can see in my pics above, I have an external swirl pot. It is mounted on the pan below the original tank.

The swirl pot is where I mounted an original in tank EFI pump from the same model car as my engine (basically). That keeps everything small and neat, and makes it impossible for the pump to die from water or something strange getting into it. The EFI pump uses 8mm fuel lines.

My swirl pot is gravity fed from the original tank. I have two 10mm feed lines going into the swirl pot, but am currently only using one of them. I think one 10mm feed line will be enough, but if not I will just use the other one as well.

I will tell you if I have any problems with this set-up after some more test miles, but I don't think I will have any problems.