After unbolting all the nuts, do I just jimmy the whole gearbox aft, take out the old mount, slip in the new mount, then jimmy the gearbox back into position and then do up all the nuts?

might be a good idea to jack up the rear end first too..

?

Are you talking about the a stock style one front mount? If it is a stock swing axle, you should be able to undo the rear mount, and wiggle it back just far enough to switch the front.

I've changed the nose cone to a split kombi cone coz the gearbox is a 1300 (or 1500, they're th same though aren't they?) I'm pretty sure the mount is the simple square version without the ovoid protrusion at the front of the mount that contacts the chassis..

I forgot to mention that I'll have to undo the rear mounts too - then its just a bit of a wriggle you say?

I did the exact same thing, used a early kombi mount, which is more or less the same, just stronger. Just undo the 2 large bolts that hold in the banana mount and the front and you should be able to wiggle it out enough.

cool, I'll let you know how I go..

Cheers

When I did this I also backed off the clutch cable and put gear stick in 1st and disconected the accelerator cable to allow as much travel rearward. Got it in ok.
Cheers.

man, its a bitch trying to get the 15mm nuts off.... no bloody room!

alright.

I can't shift the gearbox back far enough to remove teh mount - I'm going to have to unbolt the stub axels ain't I?


F......

take the front tin off.... give u a bit more room, aswell as the muffler maybe

Lucky for me, the engine's already out - I've had to unbolt the stub axels from the spring plates, so pretty much, the only thing holding it to the chassis is the handbrake cables and the two rear brake hoses! I placed a jack under the gearbox to support it though... slipped in the front mount, and bolted it all up again - only to find that the new mount needs larger nuts.. weeeee I grabbed a couple from the engine bolts and I'll replace them later with high tensile equivelants.. Now, just to bolt the axels back to the spring plates.

Which, btw, doesn't have any room for adjustment (toe in/out) on the plates. I remember that there should be elongated slots to slide the stub axels back and forth for adustment - anyone else have plates like this?