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Type 3 front suspension problem... HELP/IDEAS URGENTLY WANTED
preacherman - May 24th, 2005 at 05:18 PM

I am renting a house that is 2klms down an unmade road...gets a bit rougha t times with potholes. I noticed a clanging in the front end, drivers side.

On inspection I found that the bolt that goes through the top eye of the shockie bolting it to the suspension arm had sheered in the thread. I drilled a hole thru the bolt stub and used an extractor to get the threaded end out....major JIP. the Extractor broke in the hole i drilled in the bolt end so not only do i have a bolt end there but also an extractor piece too.

I cant drill the extractor bit out..I think..because it is hardened steel. WHAT CAN I DO???????

I dont want to take the whole front end off but I feel my options are :

1. Cutoff the top eye locator for the shockie and weld a grafted one on

2. Take it to a garage with Oxy and use oxy cutter to burn out studs. ( this may ruin the thread but I will then use bolt and nut at the other end of the shockie arm)

3. Buy a a set of extractors new on the market that has a short stubbie drill on the end of another extractor. These extractor sets costs about $65 and hopefully will drill through the old broken extractor.......not sure if this will work.


Any other options please guys. I really don't feel safe driving the old girl around with the kids in it with the top of the RH shockie not connected to anything


Old Dubber - May 24th, 2005 at 05:38 PM

Some ideas -
You may be able to shatter the extractor with a good punch.
The extractor can be drilled - slow, cutting oil and high pressure.
Mig/Tig onto the extractor to reverse it out.
Drive it to a good machine/engineers workshop.


68AutoBug - May 24th, 2005 at 05:53 PM

Sorry,
No drill will touch/score a bolt extractor/easi-out...
they are just too hard.... I bought titanium etc drills when I broke an extractor in the head of My Beetle....
ended up replacing the head....
Maybe someone can weld to the bolt... something You can grab hold of.... .
or as You said cut the top off and replace that section of the tower..... might be easier, plus You know it will work...
Just bad luck..... IF You are like Me... it just keeps following You :):)
I am using anti seize on most of My bolts these days....
it was recommended in one of My workshop manuals....
especially on steel bolts going into alloy....
like spark plugs..... RECOMMENDED....
cheers

Lee Noonan
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug 


Menangler - May 24th, 2005 at 06:46 PM

I have a complete type 3 front end here if you want it, come for a drive it's free!
Dave


Old Dubber - May 26th, 2005 at 07:14 PM

Lee,

I have to disagree with you about the drilling - have seen it done, but in a machine shop by an experienced fitter & turner ie my Dad!



Preacherman,

Not sure on the Type 3, but is there a way to get to the back of the shock tower. Maybe making a hole in the inner panel?
That way you could possibly punch the extractor out?


veedubjimmy - June 16th, 2005 at 08:25 PM

Hey preacher man i agree with the other guys at work we use what are called easi out s can buy them in sets. Worth having when working on old cars. Buy a good set and you should be able to ge the broken screw, bolt out . Another idea if your struggling for room buy an air drill very small good in a tight spot. with a good quality drill bit and some drilling compound make a good combination.

james


Kombi_Rescue - June 16th, 2005 at 08:31 PM

lindon forget the type 3 work on the deluxe!!!!!cheers dsk steve


pod - June 16th, 2005 at 11:25 PM

try using a cobalt coated drill which are better for harder steels:)


Andy - June 17th, 2005 at 07:17 AM

I use a concrete drill to drill through hardened parts. They have a carbide insert. As old dubber said, it's just slow going and needs high pressure.

If your not confident in what your doing, it's sometimes cheaper to leave it to the experts than taking it to them after it's all hacked up.

Good luck!