I have read quite a few thread's discussing the pro's / con's of 009 dissy's but i am not sure if anyone has asked this question.

I have 1835, balanced standard crank, mild cam, dual kadron's etc and was wondering what the consensus is on how to get the timing right ?

The max advance on my 009 seems to be about 35 degree's. This gives me a top rpm around 5k when the engine is set with the advance at 28 degree's or so at 3k rpm.

This engine should be able to handle up to around 6.5k if i am not being nice to it which it dosent seem able to do at the moment.

Does anyone have ideas reguarding this, how to fix it or do i need a different dissy ?

Sounds like you're carbs need re-jetting, actually: 5k is about right for Kadrons on your engine, but I wouldn't expect it to stop, just run out of torque over the next 500 rpm or so.

I thought i may be running out of advance as max advance seems to be hit about 4k rpm

I'm far from an engine expert, but many reputable engine builders I have listened to have all said that the main cause of an engine's rev limit will be the CAMSHAFT.

A "torquie" cam won't allow the engine to rev to the same level as a cam designed to let an engine rev to 8500 RPM.

With a non-counterweighted crank why would you want to be reving it past 4500 RPM anyway?

Even with bigger carbs or re-jetting, if your cam isn't designed to go to say 6000 RPM, then your engine aint gunna do it.

the timing should not effect the engines ability to generate revs. Some sinple turbo setups use a locked (static) timing figure and they rev just fine. Could it be that the points are not able to cope with that many revs? I know you can get twin point kits for 009 or why not go CDI . Is it getting enough fuel? put it on a dyno and have it jetted. Anyway a few more ideas for you

I have a high speed conversions number 2 cam (have not been able to find the duration etc as noone seems to know) All internal componants are balanced and seem to be well balanced.

I have electronic points so that shouldnt be the problem.

Sounds like it could just be the carbs.

I have standard air cleaners on them could that be a restrictive factor ?

Otherwise the engine runs VERY well

I had a similar problem with an engine i built using High speed conversion parts. And it was the flatest engine i ever owned. I took it back to them and they offered no help.
It could be your cam? As HSC. used to do alot of aircraft engines which are only meant to rev to 4500 i think?

Hmm.

I could not describe this engine as flat. Even kurt (vee dub repairs and spares) commented that it went well ... which is to mean that it surprised him for its appearance etc. when he tuned it before i fixed the heads. It does seem to begin to lose the extra oompf around 4.5k so perhaps it could be the cam... that said that exact grind of cam will happily rev a counterweighted motor to 6k or better so i am inclined to believe it is not the cam limiting it.

I do not drive it often in this kind of rev range but i have found that the longer i can leave it in 1st and second gears on takeoff the easier it is to surprise all those fat heavy V8's (well duh you all say) so i want to try to get those few extra rev's for when i find people to play with ...

I believe that High Speed Conversions is just the name of the company which does the grinds of these cam's they do 3, a mild, medium and wild ...... mine is the medium one .... you can get the car to idle at 750rpm and gives a nice cammy sound and the car rocks side to side .... combined with the cannons its a great sound .

do you have cannons?
If you do not have Four into one then I suspect that you would lose a heap of
Torque.
This may contribute to the lack of top end pull.
I dont like to advance my engine more than 34 deg maximum advance.
As Rob says probably 32 deg is better.
When you over Advance it does not help with torque either.
Youd find if you advance it more then it would start to ping and go Noticebly worse.

I did not notice a difference in performance (pre rebuild) between the thunderbird i had first and the cannons i put on after so i dont think that is the cause.

How do you check which main jet's are in kadron's and can you stuff the tuning by checking the jets ?

If you didn't notice a difference between Thunderbirds and Cannons, you have a serious problem with your bottom end (t'birds are extractors and cannons are headers - good only for all-out race engines, and a lot of noise.) On an engine such as you've described, the t'birds should have given you a noticeable loss of power at lower revs, along with no detectable increase in top-end power (along with burning valves, most likely.)

As to your question; dismantle the carbs and remove the jets - they have the number stamped on them, it's in thousandths of a millimetre. If your gaskets, etc, are in good condition you can put the carb back together no probs - but it's always a good idea to have a rebuild kit or two on hand. If you put the engine back together and find probs (such as "crackling," flat spots, or backfire,) spray a little WD40 around the carb and you'll probably find an air leak - time to fit that kit. If you've done this and don't have the kit your local speed shop will sell you a fuel-resistant silicone to thinly coat your gaskets. If you really get stuck, regular or red RTV will keep you going till you get a kit. Mick Motors, your local Repco (much as I hate to recommend them,) or local VW place can supply the "reco kit;" http://www.aircooled.net  can supply (use USPS airmail) for those dire emergencies (individual parts are hard to find and usually cost more than the kit.)

The thunderbird system was on the motor first, then the cannons (its my brothers car). It was a 1 5/8" system, and the muffler had basically rusted all its baffles out I think. Pretty straight through in the end.

Please explain to me why a different exhaust system will cause it to burn valves ? I dont understand the connection....