From previous thread about EJ22s in splitters...any thought's, links, previous threads on going for a turbo 1600 instead? I am a newbie to this, so please keep it simple - technically speaking.

Who does it/did it - how hard, how much, what improvement over stock?

My bus is IRS, so planning Lbug box....understand the issue over brakes etc., but was hoping to keep this thread to the discussion of turbo motor/box/transaxle etc., not brake swaps etc.,

Thanks in anticipation....

[ Edited on 19-10-2005 by crewcabconnection ]

i can't really help ya, but im keen to see it happen

This site should give you an idea on what kind of power you should get on a 1600

http://www.lowbugget.com/1600t.html

thanks, so here's the pic from that site. Notice they are talking 120bhp at about 4000 revs off a stock 1600 motor, or 230% more go. Who does this stuff locally? Looks like a lot of 'making' otherwise....

Whos' got one locally?

Wow.. if only they made those kits for a type 3! They look like so much fun!

Yanks have some very funny HP numbers.

The fabrication wouldn't be that hard. But that engine bay looks like there'd be a lot of heat in there.That's not good for an aircooled motor. Certaintly not sure about the 230% increase. It wouldn't last long with that much extra stress and heat.

Ideally it would be better to use EFI and an intercooler. I know that sounds expensive, but every car manufacterer who used turbos ended up using both of them.

heres a link to one that is/was for sale

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewthread.php?tid=43717&page=1#pid406909 

looks like good value for a quick result

[ Edited on 19-10-2005 by dumone2 ]

that is very good value:thumb

If that was your thing i would buy that one.

Not worth the effort trying to recreate it for the asking $$$

wouldn't actually fit in a splitty, the turbo and intercooler would be either in or directly under the fuel tank.

mmm, hot turbo + fuel tank :duh

i'm sure a lil bit of imagination would see the turbo relocated.............if i hadn't just spent TWICE+++ that much moula, to get exactly the same setup (not assembled), it would be long gone.

i was thinkn of it but was advised to much heat ,plus reliablity if its a daily driver and your not a mech like me "just a view" no harm, id love a turbo in mine and was seriously considering it but
took the advice and getting a solid 1776 cc

Yeah you want a hideaway style header to put the heat under the car. Also definatly consider porsche cooling and some minor body mods to improve the air flow thru to the engine bay. (like those scoops that bolt on to the later model bus's).

So there's an easy $2500 to get you started... barely... if you include a T28 Nissan S14 turbo, which is an ideal match for a 1600. Thats also the same turbo as the low bugget kit uses.

Then you just need an engine built to handle boost. With stock heads you MUST have intercooling. I've yet to pull apart a 1600 that has standard 040 heads that doesn't have cracks between the seats and spark plug hole, let alone anything that was mildly worked. The heat generated from the turbo and resulting increase in combustion temps WILL crack the heads. Its just a matter of time.

So you know its possible, I made 165 at the rear wheels at 16lb from a 1641cc engine, but all the internals of the engine were basically full race parts. Heads were CB 044's. The long block is worth about $4500 and I also had about $4500 worth of electronics (efi and ignition) plus intercooling on it as well. Its powering my bench at the moment waiting a rebuild and upgrade to 1916, or maybe a wrx head conversion

I've got to ask.. are you just trying to go faster, want more overtaking power or what? For reliability I think you'd be better off with a type 4 and maybe a supercharger if you want to do something a little easier. A blow thru DCOE with a 4age-ze supercharger would do 120hp easy at modest boost, plus not have any of the overheating issues.