I am currently in the (lengthy) process of building a 1916.
I don't plan on revving the ring out of it so do I need to think about a cw crank ?.
Although I would like to give it a run down the qtr. mile on the odd occasion
Any other hints or tips would be great.

Cheers

I'd go the CW route.

I think you'd be sorry if you went the other way, especially when ya want to give the rice burners a scare.

I think most would not recommend reving a non-cw crank past about 4500 rpm, even occasionaly.

Definately a good idea to go cw.
It makes the car more drivable even if you dont intend thrashing it much.
For a few extra bucks why not?

Yep CW it!
1776 with balanced bottom end may be but a 1916...well....

On top of that what would you do otherwise?
A re-fround stock crank..... i dont think so....a new stock crank. Why bother.
Give a few shops a call - should be able to pick one up fairly cheap

Yeah, go the C/W crank. It's only a few extra $$. That way if you want to go silly with heads and EFI later, you won't have to split the case... Although someone I know did a season or two in hillclimbs, drags and scared HSVs stupid on the street with a stock non c/w crank! Got buzzed to 6200 everytime it was driven

Have to agree with 56astro; revving past 4500 on a regular basis will shorten the life of your engine, remember that you are swinging a little more weight with 94mm pistons. Many builders would recommend the CW crank on such an engine simply because it will help to maintain oil pressure (as the stock crank flexes at higher revs it allows a little more oil to get past the bearings - this problem increasing as the flex wears the bearings.)

kafer i'd say go for a CW crank, though i'm bais for the manifacturer of the above mentioned crank. still go for the CW crank for your sake in the future.
mr hoodjacks... are you still heading too the "dale" in the near future, if so call me. hans has buggered off to work in WA so no plugs needed for his buisness. if you are heading north soon please give me a call.
h.

yeah look at the design of the crank, it has two rod bearing journals side by side and only 2 main bearings each side to support both of them.

look at a subaru flat 4 crank, it has a main bearing journal between each rod journal, less flex and its CW from the factory.

CW is great, less flexing, less pounding out the case, less energy wasted in vibration.

Hey guys,
How many RPM do you think 1916 with CW crank, 110 cam, mildly polished head + progressive dellorto could rev out to?

I was considering buying newly built one that was for sale for $2500! a while ago but the owner changed his mind.

I've been looking for a bargain like that to come along ever since

Cheers,
Josh

If you are only using a 110 cam then save your money and use a stock crank. This is a mild cam with power at about 5k, not much use revving past this . Stock cranks will not flex below 6/6500, the main problem with engine life is poor line boring of the cases, and then people blame the crank ! Make sure everything is balanced and that the crank is crack tested before fitting.

It also depends on heads too . I had a 1916 with counterweight crank , 042 Heads 40 x 35.5 valves , single Berg springs , chromoly pushrods 9.5 :1 compression and it made peak power around 5500 rpm and revved to around 6800 . Also used dual 40 IDF's . Originally had a 45 Dellorto , duals make a big difference