Anyone got some suggestions as to why my engine is running hot?

Im sure its timing, but ive checked and re checked and re checked the timing...what am i doing wrong???

Probably because you drive way too fast. Put a raw egg in the radiator. That will fix it.

What are you driving? Are you drivng the t!ts off it? Nothing's blocking the fan intake?

Its a split, singlecab ute, not driving hard at all, heats up hot around the block...something is wrong, but cant figure it out...

rear tinware is leaking really bad? Fan's sucking hot air? Air off cooling fins is obstructed?

Its all there...had disiy problems, and im worried about an issue with the timing...there seems to be a lot of play/movement between the pully and the rotor moving...

i'm outta ideas, though a loose dizzy shaft aint good news... good luck man

no worries, looks like she's gotta come out again...

Bruce

You could have a sticking oil pressure relief, or lack of oil pressure, blocked oil cooler, slipping fan belt etc etc

Is it pinging? That would indicate a timing problem. Try swapping the dizzy for another one.

Cheers

Steve

could be excessive buildup of gunk thruought your eigne where the air is meant to be forced thru, i had ALOT of crud on mine, figure thats gotta make a difference

did u set the timing with a strobe for max advance

No gunk, only installed it last week, belt is fine, had 3 dizzys on it...will look at oil pressure...its not pinging...

Should it be set at max advance?

check that your advance in the dizy is working

So what dissys have u got,if u have a 009 set it at max advance 28-30 and let the idle fall wherever,luck dude.

check that the fan hub is not floged out and thus not turning adequatly, also check that the deflector plates are there from underneath between the cylinders

when u say hot, how hot?
do u have a temp guage, if so whats it read and at what speed?

Hi bb,
When I read "...only installed it last week..." does this mean that it is a newly reconditioned engine that you have installed? (fresh engines run hottish anyway, hotter still when clearances have not been set correctly).

Also, as vwrallycar said, how hot? Can you hold the oil dipstick without needing medical attention? (if so, then it's not *really* hot)

hth

Just a 2nd hand one, too hot, cant hold the dip stick...

OK, then the oil is getting *quite* hot.

I'd suggest the next relatively inexpensive step is to check the ignition timing with a timing light; this will show your true total advance, but will also demonstrate if there are any problems caused by wear/inconsistency in your spark timing, e.g. worn distributor parts can cause your timing to 'flutter' and this is quite visible with a timing light. If all is well, check and set your tappets (dead cold, next morning) to 0.006"; this is not likely to be causing overheating but it might reveal a problem with a particular cylinder.

If all is OK, you need to ensure that your cooling system is 100% (including well-fitting tin-ware etc.) and then you are left with the less likely culprits, such as incorrect clearances when the engine was assembled. If you get this far down in the list without solving it, run a compression test before pulling the engine as a further guide to where to look.

All the suggestions made above are valid, but you need a structred way to tackle the problem and timing is one of the major contributors to overheating. A weak mixture can contribute, but by the time an overly-weak mixture is presenting the symptoms you're describing, the engine will hardly be running.

hth

[ Edited on 8-12-05 by modulus ]

check for a vacum leak and a good seal around the oil cooler

Did it get hot all of a sudden and has it run normally before? Have you changed oil and filter.
+ all the above advice.

I'd be thinking perhaps the fan is not rotating properly could it be possible that the belt end is moving but the fan end is loose or slipping?
I believe they are fairly fool proof setups but its an odd symptom perhaps its a simple but rare issue.
it would be easy to assume the fan was pumping air but perhaps it is not.
Good luck with it Bruce.
God Bless

haha, god bless, haha...

Maybe its the coil?
Would a dodgy coil keep causing the points to be cactus? Or kill the condensor

Still dont know how hot "too hot" is??
What does the oil temp guage say?

Too hot to hold the dipstick is just not enough.
Whats the actual oil temp in degrees then you can work from there

L8tr
E

Too hot to hold the dipstick for sometime after the motor has stopped...too hot to put hand on engine lid...
Doesnt have a temp guage yet, original 62 singlecab, just pulled off a farm and got running...

can u feel air rushing out of holes in tinware for sparkplugs or underneath to check is fan is working properly

i had the same prob with a 1600 not so long ago in my bug.
the motor was fine in every way ran sweet as but after 20 min driving it was cooking ! changed the oil preasure valve,disy,cheaked for leaks,there was no gaps in the tinware,timing was fine ,even changed it to a dog house cooler and shroud but nothing worked. in the end i gave up and changed it to a old worn motor that runs cool:alien

bruce what engine is it? size? code?...is the exhaust std ?does it drive normally or do you suspect it being underpwered?buy a thermo gun and check the temp at various points on the engine...case ,intake and exhaust ports cyl heads etc.....a badly line bored engine will increase heat buikld up and retention......check the colour of the spark plugs..are you comparing this engine to the 65 high topper /????? you had two cool engines and sold them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Haha, its a 1600, exhaust is standard, it is underpowered...sparkplugs are fine...

Nothing compares to the 65...

Basically you need to build me a 1776 like the last one, my quest in life is to have every split out there powered by a kombi rescue 1776...