Finally got round to lifting the '63 and had a good measure around under the pan.
The news does not appear good. I noticed that the "shelf" behind the frame head on the passenger side was bowed slightly downwards whilst that on the drivers side was nice and flat.
I'll be double and triple checking my measurements before going any further but so far my steel rule tells me that the beam mount on the left is 2-3 mm aft of that on the right. My daughter, who was helping, learned several new words today.
Trouble is, the car is too complete and original for me to feel comfortable about scrapping it.
What are my options? Has anyone out there done any of the following:-

1) Pulled pan straight.
2) Welded on a straight head section.
3) Shimmed the beam forward on one side.

I'm inclining towards attempting 1) by stretching the left side of the car between two big Jarrah trees in the garden using a chain to the (probably scrap) beam and another to a steel fixture attached to the body mounting bolts under the bulkhead and along the left edge of the pan. However, I've no idea whether I can apply sufficient force without doing further damage. Or at all for that matter.
Comments and suggestions welcomed.
Alternatively, anyone in WA got a straight early sixties pan they'd let go cheap?
I've a complete, early 40 hp engine and transaxle (condition unknown) I might be willing to trade.

I don't think you'd be able to pull it straight.

You can buy new frame heads, and replace your bent one. It would be a fairly large job of course, and I'd probably convert to ball joint frame head while your at it to get factory discs on the front. a bit off topic though.

If I was you I would shim one side. Buy a pair of castor shims and put them under both tubes on the one side.

thats a bugger, Just wondering was the H beam bent ? "the front end torsion bar housing thing I mean." " the beam"
I'd definately try remove guard, tie strong ropes / chain to beam upright (bit that shock bolts to) and attached to that strong tree. Reverse car backward and see if you can reef it out a bit
Shiming would apear to be an option but
be aware that shims need to be a special shape that has to be thick in the middle and thin towards each end. like cresent moon. You can not successfully use peice of flat metal bent around the torsion tube,
It will probably come loose because there will be a gap behind the bar.

that's why you'd use castor shims. They are cresent moon shaped pieces of alumium, design to go under both the bottom supports to increase the castor of the front end.

Probally trying to pull it out would be the quickest method. Bolt the beam up without and arms on it etcetc ... so you can get a better measurement from the rear torsion tube forward.

Use some heat as it will make it pop out easier... Measure to the out side of the torsion tube near shock towers that way you will get better accuracy Oh make sure yr front beam is straight first and not twisted.

I think you would struggle get enough force going to move this the few mm's you need. Have you seen the gauge on the steel used in the frame head.
Ive seen the chassis straighteners in Panel Shops and these things apply tons & tons of force.
Shimming the front beam would be the best thing if you want to keep the pan
Bit safer too, you dont want a tree coming down on you.

I have been here before.
And yes you can straighten the front head.
I took the car to a friends panel shop where the car was clamped down onto a frame and the front head was pulled out back to its correct postion.

Take it to a panel shop with the right gear and it can be done.

Thanks guys,

Yes, the front beam's bent. Quite visibly so if you look through the fuel tank aperture. Wheelbase is about 40 mm shorter on left of car. The pan distortion probably accounts for about half that (2-3 mm at the frame head would translate to one wheel being about 10 mm back, with the other about 10 mm forward), the rest being in the beam.

Wes, what's the thickness of a standard castor shim? if it's in the 2-3 mm region might give it ago before I hook up the winch. I guess my first priority is a known straight beam.

Of course, I could just be worrying about nothing. For all I know I could just bolt in a straight beam, live with the pan distortion and have a perfectly acceptable handling car. Just how sensitive is the Beetle to minor misalignments?