I have a 72 f/back and she won't idle, not even in neutral (she's an auto). :cussing
I have had the carbs rebuilt recently and it hasn't made any difference. Several mechanics have suggested that the 009 is the problem. From
what I have read about the 009 it sounds likely. So, what is the best distributor to use? I have a spare 73 FI f/back with a dual advance
distributor, could I use this. Any suggestions would be most welcome. This idling problem has been around for years and no amount of tune ups has
been able to cure it.
even thogh I dislike 009 's , they should still be able to idle.
The dual advance dizzy is the way to go.
I have suspicion that the problem lies elsewhere.
Does your auto use vacuum from motor for the auto ?
If this has leak then ???
Yes, autos use manifold vacuum - it's always a good idea to check the control valve. Simply blocking off the vaccum (say, with a set of
vise-grips on the hose,) should eliminate this as the cause.
I, personally, would not use a 009 on a type 3. I did find the late type 2 (kombi) dizzy worked well on mine, I must admit I adjusted the advance on
it at a later date; but it seemed to work well with the dual carbs. Another suggestion I received was the dizzy from a 1600 TP (the one with only one
vacuum,) but I never actually tried it on the type 3.
Well i have had a 009 on my Type 3 engine for the past 10 or 15 years
No problems what so ever... only replaced the point a few times.
Its worked fine for me
Forgive my ignorance, but what has the vacuum hose got to do with whether the car idles or not?
It should have nothing at all to do with it! (unless it's leaky)
My comment (which I stated was opinion) was about the fact that the 009 has less benefit on the heavier type 3 and also that the initial advance is
often changed when they are fitted (too much initial advance on a type 3 causes problems more with low-speed running, rather than idle; usually - but
it can make it harder to start.)
I doubt if the 009 would cause no/poor idle. Ignition probs are most likely to cause the motor to not run at all.
More likely to be a vacuum leak or low compression.
Once had a T3 square back auto with a similar problem. Turned out to be loose head studs causing loss of compression.
With the added load on the motor driving the auto it will show up more so than on a manual gearbox.
I agree....009 on a twin carb auto would not stop it from idleing.
As for the heavier type 3....
I have mine set and i have no trouble starting...
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Tazz just reminded me about another area to check, and thats the balance hose that runs from one carb to the other. If its split or perished you will get vacuum leaks.
Gee my 009 in the Type 3 wagon has been running fine all week.
Must be an Urburn Myth from Melbourne.
If only you knew how Much Better it would run with Dual advance Dave...
I know it runs fine , I just dont like those cheap dist.
I'll jump on the band wagon every chance I get.
my auto doesnt like to idle but will when warm
when i get it serviced i alwyas get them to tune it so the idle is a little fast, this seems to help it idle when stopped in gear, it doesnt idle as
heavy and stays in tune longer.
there is some guys that can change things around with your car and make it idle perfectly still in gear. it is a bit pricey though, are u interested?
Its a process they have made themselves over time and money and works well !
let me know if u want more info
:bounce
Skewy I'm always interested in anything that will make the car run better, just depends if I can afford it. Any info you have would be great.
I have tried having the idle speed set higher, but then it's (really) hard to hold the car still at the lights, the idle is smoother though.
Starting isn't a problem unless she's warm, starts fine cold. Low speed running is a problem, driving in car parks is a nightmare as I have
to drive with one foot on the brake and the other on the accelerator or she will stall.
i think u have something wrong that what i am talking about wont fix.
anyway i emailed u
maybe take it to a diff. mech?
:bounce