am manual converting my semi auto, and have little budget. however, i have a grinder, drill etc. in my possession. NO welder however. maybe could borrow one for SMALL things.

any ideas to installing a clutch tube or wateva without running through the tunnel?

Just need some inspiration of any possible ways of it working, whether it be modding the pedals somehow and have it going out the side, or going hydraulic some how using parts from the wreckers or spare vw brake cylinders etc.

You could maybe use a single circuit brake master cylinder with a pull type slave cylinder, it just depends on the ratios.
-Staggers.

I can 'probably' supply you a small 10Amp supply stick welder when you need it. I really need to know more about how the clutch mechanism actually works so I'll do some research. There's a cable and chain mob down at Underwood who you should talk to Chris. They will be able to suggest to you lots of ways to do it and they custom make to your requirements.

Thinking about it, the cable pulls the clutch arm lever toward the front of the car, doesn't it?.

I think that hydraulic would be the best. You should be able to get what you need at a wreckers.

Hi Baja Chris88,

I believe its easier to do it the original VW way...
You need a new set of pedals.... used,,,
the autos can't be modified....
some autos already have the clutch tube welded into the chassis... keep Your fingers crossed.... You may be lucky..

The clutch cable will connect to the clutch pedal on the left hand side of the tunnel... under a metal cover...
and exits out of the tube near the Left hand rear axle...
The clutch cable just goes thru the hole in the clutch arm on the gearbox..... and a wingnut is screwed onto the cable... Just keep screwing the wingnut until You can put the car into gear without crunching... then You need to be able to push the clutch pedal in with Your hand slightly, so You have FREE PLAY... ie.. the clutch isn't touching the bearing all the time....
The hardest part: if You don't have the clutch cable in Your chassis... will be welding in One....
If You already have one, the lining up of the pedals can be tricky..... best to find someone who has done it before.... as it doesn't take long... just tricky....
You will also need a standard gearshifter with the reverse blockout plate..... as Reverse in the Auto is near 1st gear in a standard gearbox pattern.....
You may need someone to line up yhe gearshifter lockout plate.
You should be able to pickup a gear lever assy and pedals and gearshifter, quite cheaply as most end up being spares which are never needed......
You will also need a Bowden tube and the Wingnut that goes onto the end of the clutch cable....

Thats it from memory....

Lee Noonan
so its NOT a hard job.... but can be tricky...

thanks guys. sounds like a hell of a lot of work. I had my fingers crossed that i would have a clutch tube, took the box out 2 days ago, to my disappointment, no clutch tube

Thanks for the info guys. Sounds a little more indepth than what I thought . Block out plates, what do they do? with the gear box out, the shifter seems to move as it pleases like as though there isn't anything to 'block it out' from certain movments.
I haven't played with it that much.

I'm kicking myself that i didn't take out the shifter rod from the manual 67 before i threw it to the free body removalists Got pedals, and gear stick!)

Hey Mick, are the small stick welders expensive? Everyones been telling me MIG is great, but thats like $500+ dollars :O (Not kool!)

[ Edited on 7/5/2006 by bajachris88 ]

I already did a reply to this and then lost it somewhere in My computer..... Mine isn't user friendly..lol..

Did You manage to pull the torque converter out with the gearbox?
or did it come out with the engine plus a litre or 2 of ATF Fluid...??

You will need to weld the clutch tube in really well, as My Son's came loose with very little use...
He now has a welders ticket..... so no worries...

The lock out plate is situated under the gearlever...
the auto stick one could be different as You have to go down and then up into 1st gear for reverese, whereas in the manual its near 2nd gear - only down....
otherwise You can hit reverse gear when changing down
into 2nd gear....
I tried to scan a pic of the lock out plate but I didn't succeed.... Computer still not user friendly today..lol.

Lee

it came out with the engine, along with the fluid, Lol. it was mountedto the engine.

The gear shifter rod May be the same.....

there is a small inexpensive plastic bush just rear of the gearlever hole....
this may need replacing.... especially if its the original...

The plate has the Right hand side pointing upwards from memory..... it has to be adjusted so You cannot engage reverse without pushing the gearlever DOWN.....

Lee

cheers mate, will have to look at it.
Heres pics of my rear forks, pretty sure i dont' see a clutch tube. just my luck, Lol.

Nope, I can't see one.
-Staggers.

Yes, Bad luck....

When taking the engine out, You are supposed to undo those 4 small special bolts attached to the flexplate....
I made up 4 allen headed bolts which do the job....

The 2 square holes in the gearbox are there, to undo those special bolts.... some are hexagon some have lots of splines around the head.... I even used 4 ordinary bolts at one time, had to grind the outside of a socket to undo them.... then they were too long and hit the engine....
First time I pulled the engine, even after undoing those flexplate bolts, the torque converter came too....
What a mess.....

What was wrong with the autostick?
I know many things can go wrong, as every one has happened to Me.... lol.. true....

Incidently, 1303s Beetle gearboxes have the higher final drive... better economy etc... [L beetles]

cheers

Lee

was recommended not to use it for offroading. alot of reasons, apparently being gutless, and with the way the clutch automatically disengages, it would be a hassle when on bumpy rough roads.

and with the baja, the question comes in as to whre to put those big vacuum and reservoir canisters.

Stick welders are cheaper, but really only good for light tack or stitch welds. A mig will seam weld a lot better/easier. I can loan you a stick welder (by proxy from a mate). Just let me know when you want it.

Just remember: Welding is an art, if you want it done right first time, find a welder or boilermaker. DO NOT attempt to mig weld yourself. A stick is easier, but make sure you've got plenty of clean spare metal offcuts for when you blow holes in things, and a heap of grinding discs!

Chris, you can borrow one of my welders. Just let me know if ya need it and I'll drop it off.
-Staggers.

the clutch cable conduits where only fitted to 70 or 71 onwards semi autos
my rota bug is a 70 and had to have one fitted
i've installed one a few years back that has done over 47,000 miles with no probs

email or msn me if u need to know anything
its not a hard job just very fiddly

Joel

cheers guys.

i appreciate it.

Michael, a champion i met with a midlifecrisis said he was gonna teach me how.
the faster i get stuck in, the better.

Got the grinding disks, just not the cutting. lol, money. i'm so scungy. and angry about it too.

could u blame me? I took the stress of finding another job to get more hrs, to still get 4 hrs per week :O wtf. yeah, i can really live with $40 income, minus $20 for transport, $10 for debt to bro, leaving me another $10 for crapping around with, having other financial stresses like the family wanting me to pitch in my own seaworld ticket for this weekend... (Deep breathe).

soz, i just hate money.