Building a mild 1916. engle 120 cam, ported heads, dual 36 dells, counter weight crank, balanced con rods, balanced flywheel but not lightened. is there anything that i should look for that isn't normal when building a stock engine? im using an old case thats been machined, flycut around where the barrels go in, ground out where the crank goes in and clearanced for the rods, even though i don't need it. i wanna get an idea of anything thats different to normal so i can be ready for it. any help would be appreciated. cheers

I take it you have already got all the right bearings? Line bored the case? Cut for #1 bearing?

cc the heads maybe to work out your compression ratio once you know your deck height?

Maybe do a mock up so as you can measure deck height

all the case stuff has been done, ill do the ccs and the deck hight when i put them together. i was meaning stuff like, different size rods or anything. i got told that old rover V8 rods can be used and make the engine alot smoother cause they are slightly longer but then you gotta maching the crank to fit. any tricks that make the engine last longer or run smoother or quicker. just the little things i might have over looked??

You can offset grind your crank to suit Chev rods

This gives you a "sort" of stroker.

Jak Riz was running this set up.

A 90.5 become 1880 instead of 1776 and i think a 1916 become a 2020

Lot of work though

Longer rods are only going to give deck height problems and or spaces etc etc.
The beauty of 1916 is its simplicity.

What about some mild head work?
3 angle valve grind maybe?

i got the heads off a guy who said they had 1200 dollars of work done to them, i think by vforce cause it was one of their customers. il be going to a set of 044s once i get the money anyway. i have just heard some things about 1916s, that like they are really unreliable unless you get brand new cases and stuff like that. are they just the same as a stock engine, by theory, but bigger??

pretty much

cc's itself wont make that much power

It is cam, heads, exhaust and carbs that really do it.

Reliability is in checking things are bolted but to the right torque, rings installed properly, rocker set correctly and stuff like that.
Setting end play is a priority.

There is some that say the best case is a 8mm stud case with case savers.
I would "guess" that a 10mm studded case and no case savers might be troubel with a 1916 that had hi CR and built poorly

Pretty sure i know the heads you are talking about

i think the main restriction is gonna be the heads and carbies. if i get the carbies choked out abit and stuff should be better. the cam i think would be a problem :P its nice and big for a street car. good thing with heads is they aren't hard to change i just want it to be reliable but at the same time im young so i want it to be quick. need to blast commonwhores easily, i hope

so with the heads i got, even if they are a little better than stock i should be looking into the 15s? i like that. so a set of 044s would help when i get the money. is the engle 120 cam gonna be a little to wild for the street or will it be fine? and should i lighten the flywheel or isn't it really gonna be worth it for a daily driver?

Engle 120 will be fine for the street............ far more aggressive cams out there on the street, and I would leave the flywheel standard (eight dowel the crank and flywheel) for a daily driver.

Alright sweet as. the stock vw clutch will hold it together won't it? or should i get a kombi clutch? or go a stage one kennedy one? thanks for all the help

Stock clutch will survive - as long as you have the right 'stock' clutch

i have got one of the better ones. is there anyone with figures of an engine similar to this one so i can have a general ball park figure of times and power it should have.

Re clutch: As long as the flywheel has been machined to increase the pressure of the stock clutch it will hold fine.If you are running larger dia wheels it may be worth while fitting a stage one kennedy(but not mandatary!)

[ Edited on 9-5-2006 by Craig Torrens ]

sweet. so probably should be crazy off the line then. i got a 1776 stock internals lightened flywheel and single weber and it launches like crazy off the line. cheers for the help. ill put picks up when the build starts. oh and how fast would a vn be to 100?? like 8 sec?

bloody hoon:beer

im not a hoon i just like the look on commonwhore drivers faces when they get beaten by a beetle. its worth it. i know alot of people in vl non turbo autos who give me shit about it being a beelte so i wanna beat them by as much as possible then tell them its just a beetle :P

lol... yeah, a bit under 8 sec from memory. Duzzent matter coz the VW will be quicker across the intersection! :vader

im hoping that it will be quicker than alot of things to about 60. i love turbo lag, gives us n/a guys a change :P

you mean 'chance'!!

lighten the flywheel?

nick

and possibly 10mm studs?

[ Edited on 9-5-2006 by bond ]

The engine in my race car is a Pobjoy 1916cc 25000klm Warrenty Street Streriods engine. I have never had any problems with my engine. It gets driven on the road in historics and it won me a state hillclimb championship and I have never had a problem. Just asked Greg Ward. He has driven his 1916 all around Australia, raced it and driven home and he also never had a problem. I hope that helps.

im running stock dia wheels but they are a bit wider than normal. about 225 from memory if not a little wider. maybe 255? i dunno about 8 inchs anyway. how do you machine the flywheel to increase clutch pressure? i think lightening it with the 120 and being a road car might make it a bit to jumpy.

cheers for that info what specs is your 1916 bat? do you have any dyno sheets or 0-100 times? i know i wouldn't haha never do anything official.

Its an off the shelf Pobjoy Street Steriods with PJ counter weighted crank, 044 heads (35mm ex and 40mm in), PJ steriods cam, 44 IDF webbers and standard weight flywheel. Its very competetive and reliable for what I use it for. The best person to talk to about specs on PJ engines is Stan himself. Give him a call.

good news heads and case are at the engineers getting opened up to fit in the 94s the combustion chambers on the heads have already been done so don't need to be done. the case halves are being machined to fit together better and the place for the crank bearings has already been machined so its all in the works. pics will be up when i get them back. i have been quoted 350 for all the work to be done. so i think thats reasonable

Stan Pobjoy prices: Machine cases for 94=$122
Machine heads for 94=$110
Line bore the case=$99
Total=$331

Does the line bore include for thrust cutting #1???

yeah but he is an expert and this guy is a normal engineer and i live like about 2000km away haha

[ Edited on 10/5/2006 by bajaben ]