pulled the 1641 because it needed work! oil was being thrown around the engine bay for an unknown reason! fixed the cracked piston and replaced
wrecked heads and put her back together and into the car she goes! still throwing oil around the engine bay. heard that it might be the dizzy seal/
anyone heard of this before/ makes sense as the oil is evident around there. if so , how do ii go about fixing her? dizzy out, new seal in, dizzy in
again?
cheers josh:cry
dunno much about uprights but in a lot of vehicles a lot of oil can spurt out at the oil pressure sensor ( because of the pressure) - just a thought-
Josh
you need to be more specific where it is coming from.
If it is coming from behind the pulley and sprayed onto the engine lid or pooling on the metal in front of the dip stick it is more than likely crank
case pressure and you need to vent your case better for relief or re ring/hone / new P&Cs for fix.
If it is flowing from under the shroud on the LHS oil cooler seals are the suspect.- -easier to pull the motor
If it is continually damp around the top of the block i would check
1) fuel pump block - these can crack and oil seeps out. CAn be a bitch to get out but there is a cheat.
2) leaky oil sender. Now this is a bitch cause they are a tapered thread and not easily repaired.
over to you josh
degrease the whole engine bay and engine, then while the engine is running look for any leaks. If it is really bad you will see it leaking .:thumb
I reckon it is more than liklely...
Quote: |
I used to have this problem on the 1200 I had in my 65 Beetle, when it was getting a bit tired, I found that the breather hose from the oil filler to
the air cleaner was getting blocked, I think the dump tube was also blocked, pull the hose and try to blow through it.
Rob.......
Guys, is this normal even for an engine with brand new P&C's ? Not so much of a leak that it drips from anywhere after you turn the engine
off, more a fine mist around the engine bay.
Its a counterweighted crank 1835, which does see the occasional 6000rpm....
It doesnt do it very much anymore - the breather from the oil filler goes to one of the kadron air filters, and I have plans to install breather box
from both rocker covers.
a good breather box is necessary to handle the blow-by generated by larger than standard engines.
But the 92mm cyl (1835) have always been prone to excessive blow-by due to their thin walls. That is why no-one recommends 92mm cylinders.
Note - brand new P&C's
may be the rings aint bedded in.
I would guess that if you are using a aluminium filler the single port just aint gunna cut it
If you want to check give the motor a rreal good degrease.
Then make up a hook/u turn of heater hose. take off your oil cap and replace it with the hose.
this gives you a dirty big breather point. The hook stops any rain getting in.
Go for a real good hard drive and see if there is any mist there after.
If the answer is no - then you have blow by.
I have some on my 1775 but cured it with a CB oil breather that "replaces" the oil filler. Even this didnt work until i connected it to my
carbs.
Admittedly my P%C's were old and were just re-ringed (several times)
Finally i have solved my problem for good.
You may find the breather from one of thos aluminium filler thingies is WWAY too restrictive.
I tried the valve covers but found that more trouble than it is worth.
MY answer was the CB. That has 5 ports. I have one filtered and one to each of the carbs. That leaves too blocked. I might even run them to the carbs
too or make up a larger filter that will take 3 connections
thanks guys, i think it is coming from the dizzy or the oil switch! iether would be due to excess pressure so a relief is apt! rocker covers? and
maybe one from where the fuel pump should be![electric one fitted!]
thanks for all the help!
run a line off the fuel pump spot, and the stock filler one, and that should be enough. I try to avoid rocker cover ones where possible, as they are a
pain in the butt.
did somebody say..... geees thats wicked!
thanks wes, nice piece of work there mate!!!where are you running your runoff too?
cheers josh
cracked case:cry:cry:cry:cry:cry:cry:cry:cry:cry:cry:cry
WHOA!!..... tha was the WRONG answer!
How did you find that one!
#3?
Still better to know now............
Hey...... look on the bright side.
I will swap situations.........
from the gallery under the dizzy on a 45 degree slant toward the case bolt and then past the case bolt to the cylinder port! great! i move in 6 days
and i'm up for a total re build!:cryi must have wronged someone , somewhere! to top it off, i was on the way home from the nats and blew a trye
on the trailer, sending the mudguard and wheel arch over the wheel, totally shredding the tyre! so i had to leave the trailer on the side of the road
as the spare was else where[had parents holden because of cracked case] and go back and pick it up this morning before heading down to the mech's
to strip down the motor! having fun!
:cry
was the cracked caused by screwing the oil pressure sender the whole way in?
The sender is a tapered thread, and should NOT be screwed the whole way in. I have seen a number of cases ruined that way (and master cylinders too)
no it was just a death by old age i think! old commercial case being asked too much! oh well, got an as case ready to go!