As the title suggests.... No I won't go into details on the engine spec, but what sort of head studs would the tech gurus suggest for my current engine project. Im piecing together a 2276 stroker that will be running EFI, T3/T4 Turbo, Air-Water intercooling and be capable of some good numbers for a street car... So any suggestions will be taken on board.... I have a few options here, but I have been thinking of upgrading and I don't have a problem with fitting inserts into the new ali crank case....

these... raceware
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=293553 

depenging on boost chromoly may do the job.

yep I see another 7 k going down the loo

going to love wasting this on the street

still no fast air cooled in Perth :thumb

dont think they are quite 7k!!
an engine that needs them though would most likely be that and some!!

If you want easy hp go turbo rotary or nissan. The fun is in making the VW go...

Humpty, I am running the scat extra hard 10,000psi whatever they are ones. Adam who ran 11.88 out of his 1915 used them and never had a problem.
Depends on how much boost your running

Gull – why dont you get behind some of these people building turbo motors rather than just hacking them down with your wrx shit. Have you run this combo you keep going on about? I too could of built my oval with a suby motor and I know what there ike as I drive a GT forester but it's so not the point. Its making something that was not designed for speed fast bugger the cost. Its what me and humpty and a few others want to do. A bit more encouragement and less 'cant wait to waste this on the street!'
T54

Dont worry fellas.... Neil is just messing with ya'll.... He's a mate of mine and loves to stick the boot in at every opportunity!.... But never fear, he has done and continues to, help me out with my projects and supply me with beer most Sunday arvo's!.... Wether they be VW powered or Subi powered.... Yes, that is correct... I have Subi powered dubs too.... I have an EG33 powered Bus and soon to have my EJ25T powered Notch completed.... Hence the questions about the stroker.... Thats the next cab off the rank.... As soon as the Notch is done, the Ragtop gets the long awaited turbo, efi stroker.... And as T54 said.... This engine is about building "something that was not designed for speed, fast, bugger the cost..." I have wanted to do this for 20years, its not the 'smartest' thing to do, its not the most effective use of my hard earned, but 'cricky' its gonna be fun!

As for the head stud issue.... thanks for heads up (pun!) on the options.... I actually have some CB "145,000 psi 4140 chromoly" 8mm deals here, but Im unsure of the quality and indeed if the 8mm deals will provide the security.... Do you run 10mm studs Heath?.... I have looked at the 'RACEWARE' ones that Steve (SERRANOS) has on sale but he currently owes me over a K US, so it is unlikely he will be getting anymore coin out of me!

Quote:

Originally posted by Schmoburger Quote: Originally posted by humpty I have an EG33 powered Bus Now THAT is one Scoobaru powered bus that I'd love to own! :duh Much and all as I dont like watercooled conversions... a 33 is just too cool!

I have used raceware 10mm. They are the best but not cheap.
If you stay 8mm definitely go for the raceware ones.

That being said...Wally's 1915 turbo alcohol drag car uses VW genuswine 8mm and has run 10.16@139 so they can work, but I could hear them leaking at warwick.

I also ran with my blower with 8 and 10mm VW head studs, but only if the tune up is perfect.
That means no detonation.

That brings me to my next point.
Boost does not govern the head studs required.
Cylinder pressue does.
Boost is in the manifold.
Detonation gives spikes in cylinder pressure.

Humpty, 10mm Scat but had to notch the barrels a bit i think.
Sorry, didn't know he was a friend, my mate with a wrx keeps telling me the same, tell him he's dreemin.
T54

I was under the impression that higher turbocharger boost raises the effective cylinder pressure.
is this wrong?
hence lower static CR for turbo etc???

Thanks guys for the tips.... Its looking good for the RACEWARE items.... Its not the pressure that concerns me, its the overall forces in play with higher temps, more rpm, more cylinder area, more, more, more!.... It has been my experience that the more you try to make something do something its not supposed to do, the more likely something will give.... Upgrading the heads studs seems like yet another item that provides a little added security to the package as a whole.... What's another 350 bux chucked at an engine that owes me close to 6k?.... Not a whole lot.....

And Heath.... I tell Neil he's dreamin' most everytime I talk to him..... But he does live in his own little world, and he likes it that way!

Its funny the differing replies you get from a simple question.... I ask Mike Sheldon, what he used on his engines and he said the 10mm BUGPACK studs (9mm with rolled thread as per OEM) are better than the SCAT ones (10mm with cut thread), as the SCAT ones require mods to the cylinders to make them fit properly.... But he did say the Stock 10mm studs will also work fine (as Dave suggested), but did note some potential issues.

So the next question is.... If I fit the 10mm studs, should I also fit larger case savers to suit, or turn the studs straight in as per stock?

Cheers Dave.... I have ordered the 10mm BUGPACK jobbies.... So I guess Im not gonna need those 8mm CB deals.... Might just chuck'em in the cupboard!... You never know.... I might use them someday....