Well, as the title suggests I have a few problems with my carb. Its a Solex/Brosol H30/31 pict.

I went to check the exhast for any leaks by blocking the tailpipes with some rags for about 10 seconds. The car was already running rough before I started, but anyway as expected the engine started to struggle so I stopped, after it sort of recovered, (still running rough mind you) I tried again. Same result.
So I stopped, and revved the engine a bit to prevent it from stalling. I let it idle, then suddenly the small round plug thing on the carb (see pic) blew off and landed in my garage about 15m away. Then in stalled.

So after some rummaging, I found it and put it back in and gave it a start.

In about 15 seconds, the engine started reving higher and then fuel started leaking from the top of the seals on the carb, so I shut it off.

Some light smoke came from around the carb and through the air filter.

Also the engine would run very poorly when started cold (before this happened), until it warms up, so maybe the carb was pretty dirty already.

I suppose I have to do a carb rebuild now. Any ideas what I done?

I have an old 34 pict /3 lying around, so I think I might put that on temporarily till I rebuild the other one.

Should I check for anything before I put that one on, in case there is something else wrong and I stuff this one too?

In pic, the small round thing near the arrow is what blew off.


Thanks
Rob

[ Edited on 13-7-2007 by rob53 ]

rob53,
They do blow out and the peining isn't hot. The exposed passage is your carby bore. I'd use JBweld or some tough loctite compound and then pein it in good and proper.

I'd try and a strip 'n' clean and adjust on the 30/31, do the plug and try it out again. The German 34 Pict plug is usually peined better.


Ctefeh

[ Edited on 8/7/2007 by ctefeh ]

if youve got fuel coming out of the top ide say the needle and seat is stuck open ,probably a bit of grit in between the needle and seat ,,,,,maybe

a rebuild and clean would fix all probs

Ok I pulled it apart and gave it a good clean. It was pretty dirty inside, including rust, so it means my fuel tank will need a bit of attention in future.

I was thinking of putting some gasket sealent on the plug instead, so that it should be easy to remove next time I clean the carb. Is this wise to do?

Also how long do you all normally go between cleaning and rebuilding the carbs? I was wondering cause this one has never been cleaned since I got it about 5 years ago.

rob53,
Why bother? It may blow out at the slightest backfire if some RTV is on it.
It's main jobs are just to plug a manufacturing access hole, as well as keeping the venturi in place. It's just bad luck it blew out, and there's no real reason to make removing it easier, even for cleaning.

Regards
Ctefeh

After you have cleaned the carby peen the small cover plate in a few places then apply a smear of silastic to make it air tight

pein (or peen) means to lightly distort/bend-over the edge of the metal around the plug after it has been installed so that it remains in place. Use a centre punch or something similar... HTH

Oh ok, I will pein and plug it up proper then.

Well I stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the carb, and this time the plug over the vacuum advance (I'm using a 009, so it's plugged up on the carb) blew off. The manufacturing hole stayed on there and I don't think it leaked.

All the seals around the carb leaked fuel, as well as around the top where the air filter sits. All nuts are definetely tight, because I done it twice so something else is wrong. I used a new carb rebuild kit, so the needle and seat should not be stuck.

Any ideas?

[ Edited on 10-7-2007 by rob53 ]

Has the float sunk?

Don't know if it's possible in that carby, but is the float upside down?

When looking at detailed carb diagrams, the only thing different is that I have the float pin lug in the opposite direction, that is, the bend is positioned the same as the gasket. (Or opposite to what the vw-resource carb diagram has shown).

I may have also mixed up the auxilary jets, so I might swap the two and see what happens.

The float is definetly the right way round (according to the diagram again). I don't know if it has sunk, so I shall check it too. That's done by immersing it in hot water right?

any water!! If it floats it's OK:beer

I checked the float this evening, and it was fine. And the float pin lug was the correct way round how I had it, not like in the diagram.

This time however the engine wouldn't start, so I suspect that the auxilery jets I swapped had something to do with it.

I shall swap the jets back and see what happens again.

rob53,
Pull your main jet and check the size. There's anecdotal evidence that suggests some may not be delivered with a 127.5 main jet (if you're on a 1600 TP that is). Also something that has come up is that the needle/seat washer in rebuild kits is thinner than factory fitted. This'll raise the fuel level in the bowl. Might pay to compare and swap back?

And..give a really good spray/blow to the passages around your auxilliary air jet. It's near where the little brass locating spigot is. You see that when you pull the top off.

HTH
Ctefeh

The main jet size is 130. I will swap the needle/seat washer back to the old one, but the new one (two washers) seem to be the right size. The gasket does have a tiny amount of overlap on the passages near the brass locating spigot.Should I maybe trim in slightly?

It's now starting to become really frustrating!

Well I tried again today and the engine would not start. There was definetely fuel going in, so now it's probably something electrical on top.

I give up!

Looks like I will have to call a tow truck for the first time!

Thanks for your help everyone. When I find out what the problem is, I will add to this thread for anyones curioscity.

-Rob

I got my car working again! :kiss I called the NRMA and they came out but couldn't figure out what the problem is with regards to the engine not starting.

The guy did say that maybe the spark plugs are fouled or wet but he didn't want to check it.

So after he left, I replaced the plugs with an old set I had in my toolbox and the engine started first go! And the carb is working properly!

Well Ctefeh, I think you were right about the needle/seat washer. I only changed that and trimmed the gasket the last time I put it together.

Thanks everyone for their help. This has been a real learning experience! On the bright side, I can now remove, disassemble and re-assemble the carb in next to no time! LOL

Plus I can still say that I have never called a tow truck for the car since I have had it!

BTW as you can tell, I am a little stoked at the moment. :b


Cheers
-Rob

woohoo, good to hear its running again,how did you go with the sheet steel you needed ?,if you get stuck u2u me the sizes and i can see what i can get

Pod (paul)

I havn't bought any sheet steel yet because my brother has borrowed my mig for a while.
I did find a place in Revesby that may sell sheet steel which is pretty close to where I live. I just got to ring and confirm with them. But thanks for the offer Paul. Much appreciated.