Hi I have just fitted 36 dells to my early beetle .Man there is not much room left
I think I will have to make some tools for tuning them (and get a mirror)
I had to Modify a 13 mm ring to get them in
What have others done
cut access panels ? Yuk!

Let me know
Silver

Use 11mm headed nuts for the studs and get some long extensions for your socket wrench.
Have a removeable lid and come down from the top.
Piece Of P!ss then
And cut some selective holes in the sides to get to the plugs.

I liked IDF36's better as the idle jets were on the top

that's it, as above.

you can get the special nuts from any of our classic vee dub suppliers

drill the holes to get at the idle mixture screws, and pop some grommets in there to tidy up after.........or you can use a 8mm spanner for that instead.

removable deck lid a must, try some hoodlax whilst your at it.

i pulled my 48's down far enough to change venturies recently without any special tools nor too much hassle, without removing them.

idle jets are on the top of dells!?

get the dellorto tech book for a hints, tips, jetting, tuning ideas and trouble shooting

there are these C.B performance "hex" nuts too from VVDS...........

There on the money there with their advice. The earlier the beetle the tighter it is. You can also use a cut down 13mm but there's still a real nack to getting it done. Take the easy option an grab some 11mm nut and cut the access holes. Makes servicing a dam site easier,

Hey Daimo thanks for the photo of those hex nuts. After keith and i ported my 48ida,s i have not got enough room to use a nut at all and have changed to a alan key socket screw. Its a real bitch trying to get them started so i will ring Mike in the morning and order some of those hex nuts you photograped and give them i go. Gotta be easier than what i am using now.
Thanks again Daimo

Cheers Col

yeah, i'm the opposite, wouldn't know jac 'bout a webber........

idle on the dells.......




some clown has had a good look thru some dells here.....

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=38560&page=8 

yeah Colin,

good for lots of stuff those suckers, including lightening,

your wallet

they can come loose tho, i use a drop of blu loctite or locking star or split washer. you may need to cut down an allen key if your manifolds are short, or flare out quickly.

consider shaving a bit off the nut or stud, sometimes the stud pushes out the allen key just as they tighten right up...........i know you will try for fit first tho

damn i wish i could have got away from work for a run at Tamworth. be sure to tell us next meet too. the notch will be sitting,ready for action again in a couple of weeks

Daimo

All good advice thanks
went and got the nuts today from VVDS
All in and running fine thanks again
love the sound of the dells

Cheers silver

Hopefully not stating the obvious - but i have known people to do otherwise.

The carb is fitted to the manifold and the combined piece is then installed.
You dont install the manifold and then in stall the carb

You can put the two pieces together nice and easy when out of the car, and then just have to do 2 nuts up at the manifold/head connection when you install the manifold and carb combination.
If you try and do it seperately, then you have HELL trying to bolt the 4 bolts up trying to get access when the carbs join the manifold, and you STILL have to do the 2 nuts on the manifold to head connection.
Just a lot harder the other way for no benefit

Ahh, I see.

My Dells are on a Type 4 in a 1302, so different application. 4 bolts at either join, and the join at the head is much harder to get to...especially with the carbs attached. Hence I fit the manifolds to the head, and then the carbs to the manifolds. I use some cap screws on the carb - manifold join and a very long ball end T allen key.

Cheers
Jeremy

Rang VVDS today and bought the last set of those tricky manifold nuts Daimo was so kind to photograph the other night.
Should do the business and make life a little easier on my knuckles and fingers.

Cheers Col

is this what you mean by no space....

How do you get your spark plugs out?? The manifold nuts stop me getting in a plug socket. Currently I have to remove the manifolds to do the plugs. Does any one have a picture of the holes they make...maybe this will explain it better.

Should try playing with 45's in a type3 if your worried about space... lol

Tazz

Loads of space to work in a type 3.
Just vertically challenged

Changing Sparkplugs is a bitch.... With those short manifolds.. no room. Most times i just drop the engine to do anything tuneup related..


Tazz

Hi

Silver, obviously you need to give the carbs to me because they were meant to fit a later model bug, can't wait to hear you go past.

I used to work in VW shop that did lots tune ups on Weber equipped cars, mainly IDAs & DCNFs. I found a short plug socket with an external hex worked well, you just needed to get a cut down open ended spanner in to loosen the plugs and you could then unscrew the plugs with the socket buy hand, if you cant unscrew your plugs buy hand your leaving them in too long or the threads are not much good.

If we had fitted the motor in the 1st place we made small hole in the inner guard to get a socket and long extension through to #1 & 3 plugs.

Steve

Ok New problem
full throttle..... I seem to be getting about 70% throttle because of the linkage set up
I am sure I can and will work something out but If someone's done it how did they do it?
The thought of getting full throttle is a little scary as It goes really hard now
Steve the induction noise is very nice,,,,,, I will give you a blat when I see you
I hate the thought of cutting the inner guard
I will just pull every thing out to do the plugs
Silver

is it not getting full throttle via the pedal, but can at the engine bay by hand?

I have the same problem with my Dell's in the ragtop...................I have bent the support behing the pedal to try and get more movement but I still only get 80%

I think I need to change the arms on the carbs to get a better ratio.

i had to bend the "stop" behind the pedal so it could have more travel and therfore reach full throttle.

never a good idea to have the accelerator cable tight, but too much would not help.

Hi

What often happens with full throttle on early bugs is that the lever that runs through he pedal cluster gets bent forward in a horizontal plane limiting travel, a twist on lever with a shifter where goes it into the pedal cluster is all that is needed to bring it back.

Steve

Another idea is to get a smaller radius throttle arm. See my pics above. A smaller radius at the carbs will give more travel per pedal movement. My pedal is firm but as you will see the radius is small and the spring steel tight. 90 degrees = full throttle on carbs. As said by silver said: crazy: at 3/4 throttle but full even better just have to be lightning quick on gears... but not lightening accurate (you know lightening never strike twice in the same place)