The new case I've just ordered is clearanced for a 86mm stroke crank and 94mm cylinders.

anyone have any info on these 86mm cranks and what needs to be done cylinder wise to run a stroke that large ?
I'd imaging you would have to get longer cylinders or space them off the case with shims to stop the rods from hitting the case ?

There ARE longer cylinders,
but what ever option you choose, it will not stop the rods fro hitting the case.

The BARREL on the other hand,
may need some slight clearancing to clear the head of the rod bolt.

In the old days, before cheap long barrels,
the best way was to shorten the barrel seat to acheive zero deck.
This is with the piston top flush with the barrel top.
We then used a step in the head,
and/or a gasket with a minimum thickness of 1.0mm.

All these ideas will vary depending on which rod length you choose.

Of note,
when shortening the barrel base,
only the seat is shortened.
Leaving the spigot longer for better support is the whole idea.

The long AA barrels available now
have enough length to have deck height AND a long spigot for good support at BDC.

I thought cylinder and barrel where the same thing ??
sorry I'm new to the aircooled biz

or are the liners separate to the barrels ?

ok I'm with you now cheers

Some pcs in this post :

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=64482&page=1#pid607647 

where is the best place to buy AA barrels and pistons Dave?

cheers dave. I'm guessing the difference between the VW and Chev journal cranks are that you can use the 5.7 and 6 " chev rods on the chev journal crank?

The Chev journal is only 50.8mm diameter compared with 55mm VW journal.
This requires less clearancing with the correct rod.

On larger strokes the actual rod from a Chev will never fit because of where the bolt nuts are located.(lack of clearance)

There are many different rods that are designed for these 2"(50.8mm) "chev" journal cranks.
They use a small high strength bolt with the cap threaded to give better clearance.
Rodney Penrose has both rods and cylinders you want and has a GST exemption
which makes it very hard for the local VW shops to compete price wise.
Anything from 5.4" to 5.7" is common,
but longer or shorter can be ordered from many companies at greater cost.

I prefer the shortest rod that will fit without too much extra effort.
This will be around 5.5".

When building engine with all these types of parts,
everything must be measured and machined to make sure the parts fit and are compatable.
Just 'cause the stuff is new does not mean it will work.
This goes for all brands and price,
but problems are more common with the huge amount of Chinese products that have flooded the market.

Yea I'd imagine it will take alot of work to get the stroke and the compression spot on but I'm in no hurry as the motor in the buggy still goes well and this will be a straight swap engine I'm building.

once I get the block I will start looking at the crank and rod combos, get them, install them in the case then start looking at cylinder options I reckon would be the easiest way to go as I wont be left with something I can't use.

who is Rodney Penrose ?

So I should be looking at getting a normal length 94mm barrel set with 5.5" rods and some cylinder shims for a 84mm stroke?

im building a 84 x 94 and ive ivested more $$$$ than the complete engine above and i still dont have manifolds tb's or ems why is it we always see these things after the dollars have vaporised
here are some combo's to look at
http://www.geocities.com/enginecookbook/recipe48.htm 
BUT...
This is not the engine combo for a first-timer. If you're used to v8's, your stock 1600 is a basic 283 SBC. A 1915 VW is analagous to a 350 SBC; 2332 similar to a 406 SBC. Don't try to build a SBC 427 if you've never cracked open a 283.

I'll give anything a shot, its going to take alot of time but hey, its all apart of learning which is half the reason why I'm doing it.
I'm just waiting for all the parts to arrive now, the heads and valve train will be the last to be ordered. some $2500 in just parts for the long block as I'm using all the flash gear off the old motor (which theres nothing wrong with, just a little gutless for getting up hills).

my chev:

Anymore pics of your Chev?

it arrived from the states in 4 days

my 2386 is my first stroker motor,what a pain in the arse it was.if i were to do it again 1916 with a 6 ' rod long barrell and massive amount of rev's
i luv rev's.but insaying that it has all worked out ok so far.
go the stroker if you can afford a box,believe me you will need one.
don't order form the states(box) unless your up for throughing away some coin.mine lasted one track day.and i believe it only lasted one because it was only running on 3and abit cylinders,as soon as we fixed the manifold leak one run,boom,bang,f--kin cunt of a box.rancho.big fan.
the car wasn't that heavy either.810 with driver.
oh and make sure you got plenty of cash for tyres,you will proberly be frying a few.
have fun in what ever you chose.
i will be watching with interest.

Its slowly coming together

Most of you would freak at the amount of money Troy has thrown at his 2332 turbo efi set up. He stopped counting the $$ about 3 years ago cause it started to get a little depressing and it still wasn't running. he could of bought a VE commodore with extra's for the amount of money this engine has cost at a rough guess so far.

But if you want it and want it bad you will find the money and save for a long time as Troy has done.

yea very true only about $3500 there at the moment, just need another $1500 usd for the heads, carb, clutch and flywheel. then once shes all bolted together then starts the tuning and dyno testing.

it all depends on what you get I guess, autocraft stuff is the BIG $$$ same with alot of the gene berg stuff, I stuck with CB and scat as its well priced and its only for the dirt not streep/strip.

when my cameras fixed I will take some better photos and specs on what I went with.

I know exactly how Troy is feeling, Still a long way to go and I hope you have extra to build a box that will hold your combo together... oh and brakes to stop the thing and this list rolls on.
T54

yea I ran into all this when I built the ute so I've got it all planned out... altho as you know shit happens hahaha something make brake and then its back to the start.

all part of the fun