recently removed motor and replaced gaskets, cleaned and painted motor etc, removed both heads, didnt split crank case. when i put it back in it, it seems to only be running on 2 cylinders, and theres an extreme lack of power, electrically all is well brand new leads and plugs, which are all sparking well. i readjusted valves and timing, so theres no problem there.
and no valves seemed damaged, will do a compression test tommoro just incase.

could the jets be blocked maybe? i didnt mess around with carb at all, just took it off it sat around for a while then put it back.

motor is 1600 single carb on a 72' bus, any ideas??

Double check you firing order.
1432

Also check that the intake manifold is sitting flat on the head.
If it leaks air it will do as you describe.

If your firing order was off, also check the tappets again.

is the jets are blocked then it wouldnt be running even on 2 cyclinders

as per above check the firing order and check for air sucking

firing order is good, checked over and over. cant think of any reason it shouldnt work.

if it isnt sitting flat how could i change it without removing motor again? just be really fiddely??

Hmm.. unusual. I once had this trouble with one side.

But u said ur valves were good. I think i had sticky valves, (i neva got around to fix it as it loosened up when i left the throttle on for a while... only would happen if it sat and did not run for a couple weeks. Only one side would fire, then there would be a sputter from teh other side and then it would eventually fully loosten up).

The compression test will be interesting. Keep us informed.

check the dizzy cap sometimes you can crack them when taking the motor out if there is a crack between the same side cylinders no fire try another cap, start with the easy things first
but it does sound like fireing order

compression on cylinders 1 and 2 (the dodgy ones) were about 130 psi which im pretty sure is fine isnt it?

going to try pull the manifold off now, will check the dizzy cap first.

weird thing i noticed was the little notch on the dissy which is supposed to line up with firing position 1 is on the other side. but i made sure i timed it to this arrangement as thats how it was when i bought it

yeah thats fine compression

sounds like an ignition problem
u would hear it sucking if it was an inlet leak big enought to stop both cylinders firing

quadripple check ur plug leads are right way round

your 180 degrees out

yep 180 would be right have you set it on the n0.3 i had a bus that had the dizzy drive set to run on no.3 juat heft it as i knew it but if you dont know about it you will go mad
good luck with the bug
did you leave the dizzy in whils you were playing around or take it out

I took it out, put it can only go back in one way around and i took photos before i removed engine and matched it all back up then adjusted my valves,

makes me wanna pull my face off. have tried just about everything. and i can tell its gonna be something simple.

yea, u put the dissy in teh same way, but spin the dissy around 180 degrees whilst its in.

where you located?

the reason i asked about the dizzy being removed is that the drive moves and can drop out or move out than drop back in the wrong place a reset would be inorder i think

how would i reset it? you mean inside the crank case or in the dissy itself?

where r u located at

I will suggestt hat you take the engine to someone who knows what there doing

perth, probably right hah, still going to finish my into interior.

prob tow it up to freo

try this first reset your leads by using no 3 as no 1 and go anti clockwise 234 give that a go if still no joy as said take it to a good mechanic
may the force be with you

do you mean cylinder no. 3 where number 1 should go on dizzy?

yep thats what he means move all your leads around 2 places so they are opposite to what they were..

With the engine on # 1 firing, check that it's opposite cylinder [# 3] has its valves on the rock. This means that as you move the crank a small way back and forth, watch the valves, they BOTH should move, one opening as the other closes. This method will always proove you are on that cylinder's firing point, ie; #4 firing, #2 valves rocking.

I've been here a few times. With the utmost respect to Matberry, u may find this method a bit easier to follow!

1. Remove both rocker covers.

2. Crank the engine by hand

3. The cycle is: suck (the inlet valve will be open) compress & fire ( both vales will be shut) then blow (the exhaust valve will be open). Do that for each of the cylinders starting with no. 1. When the inlet valve has JUST closed,(check by jiggling the rocker) the distributor rotor should be pointing at that cylinder. If it's not fix it. Firing order is 1, 4 3 2

4. Sounds like u r 180 degrees out

Guys,

Cant you you put it on top dead centre on number one (ie inlet and exhaust rockers on no 3 are on the rock) and check the dizzy lines up with no1?

Newt

Oh yeah, and its clock wise on the dizzy (or else 2 and 4 will be back to front).

Newt

or anti clock wise 1234