'73 type 3 wagon. Factory dual carb, vac advance dizzy.

Evening all. I've just been checking out my dizzy a/c getting a touch of pinging. My vac hose was fairly loose so I removed it and the engine tone did not change. I sucked and blew on the hose to the dizzy and it appeared to be blocked. The dizzy plate did not move as well. I gave it another go and it appeared to unblock but it now wheezes when I suck or blow. Would the diaphram on the dizzy be cactus?
I also put the vac hose back on the carb to see if I had a vac signal but it doesn't.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Neil

Sounds like the diaphragm needs replacing. Try to get the same type at a good VW wrecker/2nd hand place, ie with the same 3 digit number stamped into the little arm (inside dist.). Check it works, too!
But if it's a late original type 3, wouldn't it have the mechanical advance + DUAL vacuum dist? ie "JFUR 4". If it's the dual type there'd be two vacuum hoses and larger advance unit. Both can be plugged, at the distributor end, and the dist. will work as normal indefinitely, as the mech-part does all the advancing(set timing statically at 7.5 to 10deg). The late setup should have two vac connexions on the LH carb & manifold - if only one is connected, it could be causing lean running.
The earlier 1600's had a more normal vacuum + mech advance unit. If that type ("SVDA"?) the vacuum unit must be replaced for it to advance properly.
Earlier type 3 's again had all vac advance. (pre-1600 I think).

Thanks Brutus. My dizzy is single vac advance. The arm doesn't move when I suck or blow.
The car idles well, runs ok but hasn't got much over 50mph and is pinging occaisionally.

If the carb vac is blocked is it easy to rectify? It didn't have a signal when I revved it last night.

Neil

vac will not effect idel only when you want to bug out in a hurry
plant the foot causes vac dizzy moves to stop pinging etc after the fix a retune will be in order and it will go a lot better

Hi

If your dizzy has the two piece points the vac unit can be hard to find, they were made locally. If it has the one peice points like a 009 they are German dizzies and are usually cheaper and easy to get. Having the vacuum advance working just makes the car drive nicer all round.

Steve

Steve, yeah two peice points Aussie made dizzy. Might find some dough and get a new svda.

Thanks

neil

Hi

I needed a vac can for a local Beetle dizzy and it was $90.

Steve

i got a replacement bosch can for my 71 super a few years ago it was $40 but im sure prices woulda gone up since then

there is an early model volvo that has the exact same bosch dissy as a late 1600 but its got factory electronic ignition in it
i forget which model now but it was late 70s early 80s

Neil,how did you go? The cheapest 'new' solution could be a 009, which I like (simple; basic), but many now prefer the SVDA. But I think ia 009 is good on a type 3. BUT you'll need to block the one (or Two?) vac connexions to the LH carb/manifold.
Or you can buy a new (used?) SVDA, but I expect this will cost more?

Secret type 3 info!!! If you can find a S/H distrib. from a fuel-injected Fastback (TL-E) in good condition, this can work very well too. It has lots of advance (at lowish revs, like the 009), but more total advance, Plus the vacuum action... These are the ones with the 'longer' body (and 2 large extra contacts built into the base). We've used two of these on two different type 3 carb'd engines (1600 & 1640) & they seem to work very well. (There were at least 7 variants of these, maybe some are better than others.}
Last mentioned units are "JFURX 4", or VW #311 905 205 .. (where .. denotres one OR two letters).

Don't fix the vacuum blockage until you have a good diaphargm or a well blocked hose. There should be no audible pinging up to about 10 deg. static advance with whatever combination of bits you have!

As rare as hen's teeth but for the Type 3 the Bosch ZV/JCU 4R3 one year only 1964 from the 1500S (high comp one) vacuum/mechanical distributor is also a good one to use. Very few here in OZ but the Yanks seem to have quite a few hanging around.

I seem to remember that many Type 3 distributors has #3 cylinder retarded just a bit compared to the other three as it run a bit hotter from the oil cooler position. In the past, some had problems by forgetting this and if they dropped the dizzy drive in 180 deg out they would just swap the leads around resulting in the wrong cylinder having the retard.

DH

I've got a 009 to put in hopefully next week and see how that goes. I'll check the samba and see what some of those guys have available as well.

Thanks for your help guys.

Niel

every type3 ive driven with a 009 has been a dog at low revs
can u rotate the points plate by hand still ie not siezed?
it would be worth pricing a new vac can for ur existing dizzy
would cost less than a new 009 and would be so much nicer to drive and better on fuel