Hey Guys,
Hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
I can start the car up in the morning and I idles great. I can drive it after that and it drives strong and powerful (as powerful as a FI 1.7ltr motor can be ;-) ) but it comes to a point after about 20 minutes of driving that the motor stutters a bit then goes fine again but wont idle??? As long as the car is driving, it goes great but it just wont idle.....
Im starting to think it may be a vacuum or compression problem???
Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Steve

Is it a type 3 or type 4 FI motor? Is the FI stock or aftermarket?

Either way it sounds like it might be related to the idle circuit or cold start enrichment not functioning properly. Engine cold - all OK, engine hot - revs ok, idle crap.

I'm thinking that compression problem would make it crap all the time.

yes compression would make it crap all the time
its in one of the sensors possible head temp and after 20 mins its warm and may be open circuit

Thanks, guys.
Its a Type 4 motor , original 1.7ltr D-Jet Injection. Yeah, sounds right with the compression.
Ill check the CHT (cylinder head sensor) tomorow. From recent research, its supposed to be 2k ohm cold and around 200 ohm hot...
A guy had the exact symptoms Im having (on a different flat four) and he let me know that he replaced the MPS (Manifold Pressure Sensor) and all was good. Thats concerning cause its apparently a new one in my car. Will let you know!
Hutcho

Ok, Cylinder head temp sensor is good. MPS is good. (holds a vacuum). Ive bypassed the Cold Start Valve/Injector (which is located in the Throttle body) on suspicion it may be leaking so its flooding the car and stalling it.
Another symptom is when it wont idle ie hot, I can hold the accelerator flat to the floor and it barely revs until about 10 or so seconds later. It really feels like its flooding for some reason..
If anyone has any ideas Id love to hear them otherwise its off to the Mechanics..... I hate not solving these kind of problems...
Steve

that could be why most folks change over to carbys the injection in a bugger when old

After spending untold hours testing swapping & buying head temp sensors,air flow meters,exchange computers etc I have to agree with greedy53 a good pair of rebuilt stock carbies & factory fittings & she'll run like new with a lot less heartache. I persevered because I thought it's a basic system & can't be much wrong but in the end I bit the bullet & I have a happy customer.