Now I know why they make the engines of beetles so easy to remove, cause they suck to work on in the engine bay.
I seem to have developed a problem with my 73, started when the motor just wouldn't turn over, thought it was a flat battery so charged up.
Still no luck, wouldn't turn, one thing I'm thinking is take out the plugs so I can turn the motor over free, do you think I can get any of my tools to get the plugs, no way.
I mean my 62 I could fit a an impact driver in there there's that much room, but on the 73 I'd be lucky to get a pubic hair in there, at this rate there could be some cheap parts for sale soon.

Bloody bloody.

You don't need to remove the plugs to turn the motor over.Use yer muscles or a large spanner on the crank bolt....

Yeah I have, but I want to check how free the motor spins just in case something strange is going on.

Plus that dosen't explain why the space is so crappy compared to the older models, not as if there's anything extra in there that warrants takiing up more room.

geez u would have torn all your hair out by now if u had twin carbs then

the differences are fairly obvious
62 would have had the old stale air heating system and either a 36hp style shroud or the later shape one but with no heater outlets depending when in 62 it was built
plus u got a manifold the size of a mcdonalds straw instead of the massive cast twin port one
and a longer stroke engine is wider also.

with a stock manifold the plugs are still a piece of piss to get out
all u need is a good spark plug socket with the rubber gromet or magnet inside and a 2" extention
1/2" drive socket works better bug a 3/8" does the job

and one of the best tricks i ever learned when putting plugs in is slip some rubber hose over them when starting them off

this A. makes it easy to get in the hole and get started and B. slips b4 u do any damage if u cross thread the plug

the hose i use from memory is 1/2" fuel line

Cheers for that mate, some of the best advice I've gotten in a lonog time, I'll borrow the socket set from work, should have a better range of sizes and lenths.

yeah u would never manage it without an extension
u can go upto about 4" b4 it becomes to long
pretty sure thats what i used to use with my twin webers

it is easier if you have a removeable engine lid
I took the hinge pins out and use cut down dip sticks instead.
These just slid in and out.
Yes - you loose the ability of the lid spring to hold the lid up by itself. I just stick a screwdriver in the hinge to hold it up.

The ability to work down on the motor when you take the lid away makes up for any down side

I use the plug spanner, and the flexi drive wwith the rachet. Its about the right length.

Garden house works well for putting them in, or the grommet'ed socket...

I use a 3/8 drive ratchet that is hinged between the handle and ratchet head, works a treat.

And don't forget, always pull them out cold and put anti seize on the threads when replacing.


Regards,

Matt.

Hi

You can still have a hood spring and have the lid removable, its just takes a little bit more effort to fit the lid in place as the springs wants to push the lid around a bit, you cant use the spring with hood jacks.

The cheapy 3/8 ratchets that come with a couple of plug sockets like Matt mentioned are the go.

Steve

Well got some tools and got the plugs out, didn't make any difference but at least it showed me some more of the previous owners bodgy work.
I'll use the opurtunity to strip, clean and rebuild the carby and I've got a new dizzy coming.
next guess is pull the starter out and see if it's stuffed.

You haven't really explained what your problem is before you rebuild and swaop things out.

So will it crank at all? Or do you turn the key and you get nothing?

Or does it crank but not fire up?

Hi

When you rebuild the carby, run a file over the carb base & manifold flange, they are usually warped.

Steve

Well the car was running fine, came home and parked it in an uphill postion, went to start it a day or two later and it wouldn't turn over.
Thought it was just a flat batttery so recharged, still wouldn't turn over.
thought it might be a bit of hydrostatic lock from fuel leaking into cylinder from a less than perfect carby so that's why I wanted to clear the plugs.
Checking the starter motor soon to see if it's stuffed, found it strange that a starter might go suddnely, only ever had them die slowly.

flooding past the needle and seat??

Anyone got a diagram or picture of the starter motor to a superbug, went to remove it and got the lower bolt but can't work out where the second bolt is.

its the top engine mounting bolt
17mm nut down behind the fan houseing

Is it accessible with the body on?

Yes, reach in behind the fan housing in the engine bay on the drivers side. Use a 17mm spanner.
Simon