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Sway bar sizes
Mick058 - September 12th, 2008 at 09:05 AM

Is it best to run the same size sway bar thickness front and back?? What if you don't???

Looking at runnig 16mm up front, pretty sure my rear ones is 20mm (check my signature link if a photo could tell you)

What are the up's and downs of running this combo - just a street car really, but would be looking at some hillclimb fun and circuit stuff next year. Very occasional though.


BiX - September 12th, 2008 at 09:10 AM

Tune to suit driving style, spring rate, right height..... i run a super so don't have exact numbers....


VWCOOL - September 12th, 2008 at 11:10 AM

Take a look at the adjustable Whiteline ones; they were developed with appropriate sizes front to rear (there are two size secs to suit street and track) AND are adjustable for fine-tuning of handling.


Sides - September 12th, 2008 at 11:57 AM

Mick - some of the photo's in your signature link have Whiteline adjustables front and rear, which are 21 and 28mm respectively (and the same as I run on my BJ IRS bug).

I know you've had posts before about maybe changing them, taking them off etc. - what do you have on the car currently ???


Mick058 - September 12th, 2008 at 12:43 PM

because i now have a narrowed beam i currently have nothing on the front. The idea is to use the rear one (which is in the photos - must be 28mm) and set that to a softer setting, and then get one for the front. there is a company that makes 16mm and 18mm ones (as seen in the 'General Chit chat' thread)

I just want to know what is best - i assume anything is better then my current nothing...


Sides - September 12th, 2008 at 02:17 PM

Ahh, OK - that makes sense. If you're sticking with the current rear one then I reckon best bet would be to have the front one made as close to matching as possible. So that'd be 22mm if you keep the adjustable style.

That said when my bug was just a street car I had the smaller Whiteline bars on it, which from memory were 22mm front and 18mm rear.

You're probably right though in that anything would be better than your current nothing - even the stock one.


Mick058 - September 12th, 2008 at 02:23 PM

Cheers Dave, will give the company a call and see what they can do.


BiX - September 12th, 2008 at 05:15 PM

A narrower front beam will promote understeer that will have to be taken into account.

So a stiffer rear or a softer front will help stop this (its late friday i could be the wrong way:crazy:)


Mick058 - September 15th, 2008 at 08:22 AM

can anyone clarify on bixs last point??

I have a 24mm rear, was considering ordering a 20 or 22mm front...


VWCOOL - September 15th, 2008 at 08:34 AM

All things equal, narrow-tracked cars understeer, that's why people who want to go around corners don't narrow thier beam. :)

and because the torsion bar is shorter, it will be effectively be stiffer, so you will need to adjust accordingly

No matter what you do, it might be a good idea to start with the Whiteline specs (F&R) as a 'base'


Mick058 - September 15th, 2008 at 09:10 AM

so a 22mm front, and go from there?


555bug - September 15th, 2008 at 09:34 AM

On a tangent can anyone tell me where to get the extra adjustable camber adjusters for my Ball Joint front end in Australia? My front is more than 3 inches (adjusters + dropped spindles) lower so I need these to get some negative camber back.

Cheers Stephen


hellbugged - September 15th, 2008 at 10:21 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Mick058
can anyone clarify on bixs last point??




yep, that's right..........the adjustable whitelines will have ample "dial in" to get your car right

VVDS would have the camber ecentric knuckles for the camber 555bug...............there's a couple of sets floating around the farm here too