Has anyone ever bought and installed one of these on a stock 1600 motor? Just wondering what they are like?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=641377


Thanks

Steve

all good ...cant beat a vacuum advance on an aircooled ...george at classic had them in stock at valla..for around the same dollars but $A

They would be Excellent and much better than the 009 dissy...
they rave about these in the USA...
BOSCH -

BUT-- some are made in China...
plus other countries not known for their good VW parts

Vacuum is much faster than Mechanical in a standard engine

Lee

I have a second hand 034 that I bought on ebayUK. Gave it a good clean up & lube, whacked an electronic ignition in it and dropped it in a stock 1600.

It goes great, never had any problems, starts very easily, goes like the clappers and timing never alters between oil changes.(set timing the same as you would for an 009)

They have the same advance curve (and parts) as an 009. They're basically identical except for the vac can.

While I thoroughly recommend them I can't speak for the build quality of the new ones as I've had no experience of them.


Regards,

Matt.

I just purchased (new) and installed a BRUCK disy. Similiar to 034 but with standard points. I believe its the chinese made one. Its literally identical to the BOSCH version, but about $100 cheaper. Its currently running in my standard 1600 Twin Port semi-auto. It runs smoother and more economically than the 009 i had in it. Highly recommend going to a Dual Advance dissy (vacuum & centrifugal combo).

Thats good news then....

maybe the chinese can make them better than the Mexicans or Taiwanese....

so long as they work

sounds good to Me...

where did you buy it

Lee

Its been a great Disy - got me to Warwick and back with no probs (it even pulled me up the mountain range with still heaps of gusto !).
I purchased it prior to Warwick from Mick Motors (approx $200). Installed it the day before i went - it was literally 'PLUG 'N PLAY".
timed it to 7.5 deg BTDC and away i went. I did do a quick eyeball comparison with the BOSCH one, and seriously, it was identical, just no
body stampings or names. The only thing was that the pipe from the vac can is slightly thicker, so you will need to use a bigger ID vacuum
hose - since i had new hose i just stretched mine over it. Not a big deal really.

get rid of that 009 Lee and buy one of these.....

cheers

Daniel

yes i cringe everytime i see a 009 especially a brazilian one on a 1600 running a 34pict3
most owners have no idea how much better there cars can run

my first Sbug was compleltey different animal after going back to the original german SVDA
i was happy just getting rid of the flat spot but the economy improved noticably to

I would recommend using a 009. I have been talking to people in the USA and they think this is the way to go. they were saying that quite often the condition of the distributor being replaced is poor so anything becomes an improvement and that the 009 has a superior advance curve when used with a standard carb.

I bought one of these from George at Classicveedub. They are on special at $120 so small price to pay for not having your head hit the windscreen on a splitty due to a jerk in power after a flat spot.

Amazing that you can produce a dizzy for that sort of money as it comes with points, condensor, rotor and rotor cap.

i think the 009 has 34 degrees of advance as where a vacuum might have 28-30 degrees. This just means when you hammer it, a 009 will pickup quicker. I'm in a 1965 splitty so there's no rush!

Cheers

Steve

Steve 009 do the opposite, thats why u get the flat spot cos they dont give enough advance till engine revs catch up
vac advance sense load straight away and advance as required just as the factory intended

So tell me mr hedde, which comapny selling 009 are u working for?

ppl only put 009s on stock engines cos uptill now there wasnt any other viable choice for a stock daily driver
german 009s are pretty rare these days and all the brazillian ones around have such quality control issues its not funny

whack a timing gun on an engine with a degreed pulley and a braz 009 and watch what happens when u give it a gutfull
beleive me the advance curve is far from superior

hi joel i don't sell 009s, I'm more the grey nomad type although I do sometimes sell strawberries at the markets. one of my cars is a type 3 twin carb with a 009 fitted and it seems to go great. i figure a beetle will go good too and a lot of people seem to think this way. particularly in the usa

Hi

I had a Aussie SVDA dizzy on my daily 1303, the vacuum cans for these are hard to find.

I've fitted a very old (early 1980s) low mileage German 009 to it with a Pertonix II conversion, no flat spots and good economy, I was expecting worse.

Steve

the early 009s were fine its just the later ones made in brazil have a shocking advance curve

ive got an old original german 009 on my 1776 and its great
but i also have a box of 3 or 4 brazillian 009s that frankly i wouldnt piss on them if they were on fire
all of them have a very unsteady advance curve and either total advance is to much or to little
i worked in a garage years back that saw a few vws still and ive seen some that will advance no more than 8-9 degrees which meant they needed to be staticly timed to 18 or so degrees which isnt good for an air cooled engine

it depends on the engine as to whether a 009 will be a hand full

earlier engines are alot more tolerant but throw one on a 1600 twin port with a 34pict3 and ur in flat spot heaven
there are tricks u can do to make it less viscous like plugging the butterfly hole, bumping up the accel jet output etc but thats just bandaid measures

the only twin carb type3 with one i had exposure to was my neighbours sisters 72 auto notch and it was a dog to drive around town and the engine had not long been rebuilt

thos german engineers werent silly, they wouldnt have put on a vac advance if they could have got away with mechnical only

I agree Joel

the difference i noticed when i replaced the 009 with the BRUCK SVDA was incredible. The only reason i initially ran a 009 was that it was the only disy i had lying
around in reasonable nick. I ran it for a few hundred miles until i had the $$ to buy a SVDA. It was always my intention to put a SVDA in as i had enuff experience
to know that 009s don't partner well with 1600TP and 34PICTs. In fact i have come across several engines where the 009 didn't partner well with them.
The flat spot can be overlooked by many driver/owners, but i feel they are doing more damage than good. For one thing, the fuel doesn't get effectively burnt, so there is wastage.
Also, since the timing curve only works in the higher rev range, the engine tends to run hotter. For a daily runner thats bad news - for a race car its probably ideal.

i just replaced my 009 with a vacuum advanced dizzy from george at classic vee dub, i must say there isnt really that much difference if there is a difference, my engine is a 1679cc with a 34 pict 3 carb and a A1 sidewinder , getting the feeling i should have just left the 009 in there and saved my money

u may find T2 that someone in the past has frigged with the carb to get rid of the flat spot problem
first thing ppl are told to do is fatten up the idle jet and crank up the accel pump to max stroke
also another one if plugging the hole in the butterfly

all of which wont do any favours when put back to stock

I think the word you're looking for is 'tuned' and not 'frigged with'. There is a reason why carbs have adjustable settings.. At the end of the day, there is no reason why anyone should have a flat spot if their car is tuned correctly, vac/adv, 009 or otherwise. They all do the same job. Joel, let's not forget that the 009 distributor was in fact Volkswagen standard equipment on a particular era type 2. The Germans did know what they were doing, am I right?!

it was an 019 on early splitties
and they have a heaps better advance curve than 009
ive been trying to get hold of one for years but theyre like rocking horse shit in aus

how hard is it to re-curve the dissy?

OK I bought an SVDA from George and put it in today. Statically timed it at 7.5deg and checked with a timing light and it advanced fine.


Drove it and no more flat spot, just smooth progressive power.

On reading up though I found these dizzys are not to be used with a Solex 31Pict on a 1500/1600SP. They can be used with a Brosol H30/31 which luckily I have.


I feel its much nicer to drive than a 009.

Cheers

Steve

Well done Steve !

you are probably glad you made the purchase !

An interesting story in regards to all this......

My first bug i had back in 1990 was a 1600 TP with a 34 Pict. Back then the 009 was a bit popular and also the cheaper
alternative for replacing your standard worn dizzies.

I bought one as i had just finished rebuilding the motor and i wanted the best for my new engine. Since i had the original
dizzy on my car (and it actually went ok - so it wasn't all that bad), i only began to notice the flat spot when i put the 009 into it.

Thinking it was something else (since the 009 was new) - i went and bought a new carby (Brosol H30) - the flat spot was still there, but damn i got better fuel economy than before !

Because at that time there was no internet to do research, and this sort of problem wasn't widespread or commonplace, it was really a matter of trial and error.
(and some suggestions/theories from experts around at the time)

This included trying to recurve the 009 (professionally) to no avail.

I did attempt to modify the Brosol H30 and the old 34 Pict at one stage, but all i did was increase the main jet slightly - still no improvement.

I finally ended up buying a Bugspray carby (a VW version of a holley i believe). That did it....finally.

end result was a lot of experimentation, lots of $$, plenty of heartaches and countless swearing.....

of course the car ran better than before, faster than before with fuel economy that matched a commodore V8 !

the lesson i learnt ?
I should have stuck with the old dizzy or bought the more expensive Bosch SVDA at the time......

Ok I'll buy in here!

I suffered a 009 with a (poxy) 34PICT on a 1600 TP in my KG for years.

Sometimes (certainly in my case) it can be the carb NOT the 009! I've found 34PICT's are pigs to tune once they get some age on them & are excrutiatingly sensitive to the most minor of air leaks. I got rid of the flat-spot by soldering up the hole in the throttle butterly valve but ALWAYS had trouble getting a reliable idle.

I went back to the standard dizzy & a 30PICT (with an adaptor plate).

I don't notice any power loss, I get nearly 11km per litre on Optimax & I have a lovely rock solid idle that never stalls, even when dead cold.

I have a box of 34PICT's & whenever I feel bad, I put one of them in the vice & hit 'em with a hammer to make myself feel better.