I've got a 1916 Penrose built engine in my beetle and was going to change to elctronic ignition. Is there much benefit of getting a complete distributorless system or just get the points replacement module? Its a daily driver so fuel consumption is a high priority. I'm going to Vintage Vee Dub to get a service so they would install it. There was about a $320 difference.

get the electronic dissy

Set and forget no going out of tune because of the points closing or burning or sticking together reduces the mechanical factor by 100 percent

If you have a good correct timing spark then depending on how u drive will vary the fuel consumption

It will take a LONG time to recoup $320 in petrol

That said i have a Scorcher distributor
It is a quality built Bosch based distributor

I have seem the plug pack systems at VVDS but have not heard any reliable feed back - well only really talked to Michael about them
Just mean i dont know any one who has bought one and had it for 2 years

Do i like my Scorcher -
Value for money

If i was trying to save money i would stick with points and check regularly

i got electronic points thingy in my 009 for my beetle.. been all sweet now for about 3 years..

I have a Crane Hi 6 electronic ignition in my Karmann. Best 300 bucks I spent. Even with the standard points, these trigger the unit only, the timing doesnt move, has fully adjustable soft rev limiter and multiple spark below 3000rpm.


http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=130 

Value option is points replacement module IMO

Ok so is there much benefit changing the whole system or just do the cheaper option and replace the points only? The guy at Vintage told me that having the 1916 engine there would be a more noticable difference doing the full system swap or was he just trying to sell me the more expensive option?

best bang for buck is drop in points module

Dis-x systems are good but wasted on stock-mild engines
unless u have lots of headwork, big induction, cam etc u dont really get the full benefit

compu-fire and pertronix are pick of the crop
ive had good luck with both, just keep selling the engines there installed in
got a pertonix ignitor II in my bug atm very happy

was very unhappy tho with empi and accufire crap. ive had failures, my mates have had failures and alot of forum members to
all usually within 6 months too

mickmick,

With drop in modules you have to be careful not to leave ignition on when the engine isn't running or they will fry.

If you have to do some work with power on but not running, e.g. electrical testing, remember to pop off the red wire from the module to coil first.

Regards,

Matt.

Thanks Matt so the girlfriend can't listen to the radio while waiting for me with the engine off right. She won't be happy about that but she'll survive
Joel looking through the receipts my engine has chromemoly push-rods, match ported manifolds to heads, engle w100 camshaft and a set of heavy duty single valve springs so i'm not sure if thats modified enough for the Dis-x system, what do you think?

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Originally posted by mickmick Thanks Matt so the girlfriend can't listen to the radio while waiting for me with the engine off right. She won't be happy about that but she'll survive

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Originally posted by Matt Ryan Quote: Originally posted by mickmick Thanks Matt so the girlfriend can't listen to the radio while waiting for me with the engine off right. She won't be happy about that but she'll survive You could always wire in a kill switch to the coil. That will allow radio on and testing plus will prevent theft, just put the switch somewhere inconspicuous. Regards, Matt.

oh yeah mick what model bug is it?

with the radio connection nearly all 71 on bugs have a feature on the ignition switch like modern cars that sets off a beeper when you open the door if the key is still in the ignition

you can wire the radio to this
thats what ive done
my radio powers up as soon as i put the key in the ignition and turns off as soon as its pulled out - doesnt have to be turned to ignition

i couldnt wire mine to be live all the time as my headunit has a stand by mode where the buttons stay lit up and the display keeps itself occupied being very visual with some demo thing when its off which flattens the battery over time

Yeah Joel its a 68 model thats going to be a daily driver and we do about 25 000km a year so it will get a workout. Maybe the dis-x is worth the cost?

I have been using the comp-u-fire dual coil pack ignition system on a drag racing car since 1994 with extremely good results .I am talking 2400/2800cc methanol inj. 230 hp engines as well as a 512 hp turbo'd deal . I am also using these ignition systems on all of my street cars as a resonabbly inexpensive performance system . I have a 1916 cc daily driver with a small oval port head , w 110 cam , 40mm dell's and 8.3 comp . I use E10 fuel and this thing drives nice . I also have one on a 2387cc in a 74 bus , CNC wedgeport heads , fk 42 cam and 1.25 rockers , and 8.1 comp , it runs cool and drives without any problems . Just remember that the std vw coil puts out around 22.000 volts and the dual coil system has 60,000 volts . I have also used the points replacement units without a falure and find these to be a good and reliable electronic module . If you are after a slight improvement over the stock ignition system I would go for the electronic module as well as the Comp-u-fire 35,000 volt coil as a stater . If your budget alows you to , I would up-grade to the dual coil system as it is a wasted spark system and very powerful , because if your fuel mixture is a little on the rich side you will find that it will burn all of the unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber . This will inturn give you a little extra power and a cleaner running engine , ROD.

I'm not real sure about mechanics but if i could use E10 fuel it would be good. Just for daily conveniance and costs. On the receipt from when the engine was done it says premium unleaded recommended. I'm not sure how important the compression is but it says 7.1:1, pistons are Mahle 94mm, cylinder heads are 040VW match-ported, exhaust valves are 32mm ULP genuine VW, inlet valves 25-6mm ULP TRW and valve springs are Empi heavy duty singles. There's a whole list of things but i don't know what is relevant and whats not. I guess the more km i do the more justified a dual coil system would be? I'll ask for a quote for both and see if its do-able.

Also have Empi quietpak extractors but i'm not sure if my exhaust pipe is too big as its 3 inch pipe? Would i be getting enough back pressure from the exhaust?

Mick thats a fatboy zorst
maybe overkill slightly but they sound mean
if ur happy with it id leave it

i woulda though ur compression would be higher than 7.1.
car would be a bit of a slug despite the work if thats what was .
stock is 7.5 in most cases and 8.5-9 is around normal for an engine that size

atleast at that low tho u could get some nice boost happening

I havn't had the compression tested but thats what is on the receipt from a couple of years ago. No cash to boost it but it would be interesting
The exhaust is certainly mean, I woul;dn't like to drive to Queensland or anything like that, my engine pops heaps but i think thats more to do with the tuning. I'll find out after the service on Wednesday. I'll ask there advise about the dis-x system or just points replacement module.

Mick

If your engine pops on deccelaration (slowing down with the engine), it is often just air leaks in the exhaust system. Check all gaskets and connections in your exhaust system. I have found that it doesn't need much of an air leak to cause it.

7.1:1 is a bit low, maybe it was built for a kombi, w100 cam too. With compression ratio that low you should be able to run unleaded 91 octane. Getting the compression tested is not the same as the compression ratio which can only be determined during engine assembly. IMO do not use the E10 fuel, it is ok for an efi engine that monitors exhaust gas, but not for a carb'd engine. You get worse fuel consumption with it anyway! If you do still need to use E10, you can get your carbs rejetted for it, then you should always only use E10. The carbs popping and spitting is either just the idle mixtures out of tune, a blocked/dirty idle jet or an inlet manifold leak, and as said before, an exhaust leak can cause backfiring etc..

7.1comp and w100 cam................no use having heavy valve springs

how much did the motor cost you ?

It came with the car which cost me $5500. I think i paid a little too much for it but the girlfriend loved it and it drove well. As long as she's happy then i'm in the good books which is priceless.

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Originally posted by mickmick As long as she's happy then i'm in the good books which is priceless.