Hey Guys.

There has been alot of 1916 / carb talk on the forum this week, And as these are things that Im currently researching and planning, I'd really love your opinion on this.

So, I will be building an engine late this year/early next year (2010) and the budget is quite limited but id love to know what specs I would get a decent decent performance out of. The aim is to be daily driven, but with a fair bit of punch. I'm really not interested in it be stupidly powerful, but id like to get the most out of the setup

I am being serious here, and I'm not interersted in fuel injection or turbo's (as cool as that is). I want it to be simple, and drivable.


What i have so far:
- 8 dowel lightened flywheel
- German 69mm Crank
- 69mm Rods
- Swivel foot rockers (standard - 1:1 [is that correct..?])
- standard clutch kit to mate to the L-bug IRS gearbox.
- Single glass pack extractors

I want to keep the standard Fuel setup if I can, Im not really up for electronic fuel pumps.

I'd love some suggestions in this form, roughly:
- heads
- cam
- Intake
- P/B
- Distributer
- what ever else I've missed!!

I'm also looking for links, so if you suggest something, a link would be awesome also!!!

Cheers

i think maybe get your stock 040 heads port and polished, engle 110 cam, dell or webber 40's or kads with match ported manfolds, quite pack muffler, 94 mahle p&b's,and maybe that compufire 60 000 volt system. will be a nice daily with some torque and wont brake the bank. thats my 2 cents. keep saving, but dont rush it, if you think that it might take a few extra months saving to build it that much better, do it.

good luck mr mustard, ha......

what is the cut on your crank??
How many times has it been ground
If it is much more than 20 thou under i would consider replacing it

Same with your case
Has it been line bored??
Has the thrust bearing been cut??

These are the backbones that need to be sound to start with

If it is a true daily consider running a stock 34 Pict for reliability and ease

Otherwise what Chis said above is as good a "base" 1916 as you can get

With your muffler if you have a fulkly merged header in a 4 3 2 1 firing order it is heaps better than the standard 4 2 3 1 extractor set up
Have a look at what you have - it will make sense when you see it

I will be getting a new case. And no, i dont know what type that will be.
Im not sure how many times the crank has been ground either. probably some things i should find out hey.
I hate 34PICT, no offence. but i really cant stand it. I was going down the kadron track, but after what every body said in a thread a few days ago, I'm definatly concidering dellortos.
I will have a look at the headers. Its not nully merged, it has j pipes. its similar to this http://www.classicveedub.com.au/images/SpareParts/muffler_exhaust/3310.jpg 

ok - anti clock wise from top left no 3
3 - 1 - 4 - 2

You dont get a true scavenge swirl


have a lok here

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1622 

trace it out
I 4 3 2
same as your firing order

For the same money you get more bang for your buck
Down side is it sticks a bit further out the back

If you want HP then looks need to go away

also look hear for various engine combos
http://www.geocities.com/enginecookbook/menu.htm 

and read here

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm 

and LOTS here
http://www.cal-look.com/tech_home.shtml 

Cheers Dude!

I have a few questions, Does anyone know what sort of rev's a standard German crank will hold up to? Also, does anyone have experiance with swivel foot rockers??

My exhaust pattern isnt like that sadly, but for me looks>>>>(over) performance, to a certain extent. especially externally. I have a similar exhaust on my 1600 currently, and i HATE that it sticks out. Im happy with the exhaust iv got for the new engine, it just needs a bit of sanding and painting, and it will be wicked.

Im mainly concerned now at what im really getting out of stock parts in a performance motor. the guy who is building it generally uses stock parts in the engines he builds. what do you think?

with a non c/w crank if ur revin it over 5k all the time you will soon pound out the bearing seats

What about standard rods Joel? Will they deal with plus 5k revs? Im not sure that i will generally rev past that... Its not a rotary... haha! I don't shift at 9500rpm all the time!

Colonel , Here are the spec's on an engine I have just sold to Tricky Simon .
Used as 41 case line bored .020
cro-moly counterweighted crank .010 mains , .020 rods
new 5.4'' I beam cro-moly conrods
engle 100 cam and bevel gear
scat lifters
AA 94mm piston kit
New 043 heads 40 x 35.5 stainless valves , single springs and 54cc chambers , cleaned up and not ported
std pushrods
solid shimmed rockers with swivel feet adj.
26mm oil pump
std weight 8 dowelled flywheel
new bearing kit
This engine was all new except for the case that I was using in my personal car and after 8,000 km's was totally rebuilt with different heads . This engine has 8.3 comp. and runs Kadron carbs and is to be used on std unleaded fuel . This is not an engine that will see more than 5000 rpm , however is built to do 80,000 + km's . The total cost on this engine sealed from front pulley to flywheel and valve cover to valve cover was $ 3000 . This engine runs and idles like a std engine , has the power to overtake at 100 km/h , and has enough torque to climb hills without changing gears on a freeway . Good luck with your engine and remember to built what you need and not what you think you need , ROD.

So is the compression 7.9 or 8.3 Rod?

OK.... this gives me some good idea's

-8 dowel lightened flywheel
- German 69mm Crank (balanced and machined for 8 dowel)
- 69mm Rods
- Swivel foot rockers (standard - 1:1 [is that correct..?])
- standard clutch kit to mate to the L-bug IRS gearbox.
- Single glass pack extractors
- 94mm heads - 40mm x 35.5mm valves
- engle 110 cam (not sure what exact grind)
- 94mm piston kit
- Bosch 009 with electronic (compufire)
- DRLA Dellorto's (not sure what size...) or maybe Kadrons still (going to try and get out of that today)
- Oil pump... No idea
- Lifters.... No idea
- Push rods.... No idea

- would DRLA 40's be big enough?

- Rod,
What brand are the heads that you used on that engine? also,
This might be a dumb question, but what is the difference between a AA and B piston kit? And what brand of pistons are most commonly used/or what are the best - life wise?

stock rods balanced are almost bullet proof

Piston and Cylinder Set 94MM X 69 Stroke FORGED.


CB 044 Heads 40x35.5 valves 94 bore


ENGLE Hi-performance Cam W110


HIGH PERFORMANCE PUSH RODS Made from the highest quality heat-treated 5/16" tubing. Fits 1300-1600cc.


STAINLESS STEEL PUSH ROD TUBES 40hp 1600cc


Valve Covers


just some ideas there.......

Do any vw shops do engine kits??

yeh its the ones that arent balanced tho iwas refering to

But then a counterwighted crank is better than a standard balanced crank.... But is it worth it for the price???

depends on your budget and combo !

One thing, definately dont use those stainless pushrod tubes, I fitted em to an offroader thinking I would save the effort of painting and should last forever on the beach...they actually are too tough or too long or both and hold the heads from exerting the correct clamp force on the barrel.
Lots of good advice above. So no need for me to repeat.
Nothing wrong with stock rods, I reved them to 9000rpm in the chop top engine in the 90's, but always had sets that were definately German and never previously resized.
Kadrons are ok but I'd prefer Webers personally.

A counterweighted crank adds torque right through the rev range................... if its made correctly
from idle all the way as far as the cam/heads combo will take it

ie not just crappy flame cut counterweights welded on down the back of the shop

Another point

A lightened flywheel will rev up faster but will loose momentum quicker

i'm no expert but i think that with 42mm intake valves you will want 44 webers/45 dellortos

Interesting. I will research that. thanks

Pretty much backup what Daimo said,

Its not the parts that count but more the combo and how they work together.

Seek plenty of advice from people liike Rod Penrose.

Cheers Col

Rod seems to be the man..

What do you think of this combo (anyone - rod in particular)

case???
cro-moly counterweighted crank .010 mains , .020 rods
new 5.4'' I beam cro-moly conrods
engle 110 cam and bevel gear
scat lifters
AA 94mm piston kit
New 044 heads w/ stainless valves , single springs and 54cc chambers
Aluminium pushrods
Windage push rod tubes
roller rockers
26mm oil pump
lightened 8 dowelled flywheel

40 DRLA's - dellorto's (CB performance manifold/linkage kit)

I don't know why ure so obsessed with coming up with all these combos even though you said you wont be doing it for ages..