Hi All,

A few months ago I decided the only way to learn was to buy an old engine, pull it apart and put it back together and get it working.

I bought a 1600tp from 1303Steve and having finished an exam last week I finally found an hour or two to start over the weekend and this evening.

Before attempting to put it on a borrowed engine stand, I decided it would be good to get manifold and tinware off. Manifold was easy, heads look nice and gunky on the inside, photo below.

However the screw in bolts holding the tinware on are a pain in the buttocks I've been applying lots of WD40 but still have four left. Is it just a matter of patience, or does anyone have suggestions??

However my main concern at the moment is the engine stand. I have two questions:
- What size (diameter) bolts will I need to go through the case at the top?
- The bolts that are at the bottom obviously stick out from the case by roughly 56-57mm, but the engine stand receivers are longer than the bolt at about 60mm (photo below), meaning that I can't screw a nut on the end. My guess is that means this engine stand is no use to me. Your thoughts?

Thanks for your help guys (and girls), the dumb questions haven't even begun yet.

Craig

Give the screws a good crack with a hammer on a strong large screwdriver, then try to undo. If that doesn't work, vice grips or even side cutters grip around the screw head and undo. As for the engine stand, a pic from further back would help us advise but appears to be not appropriate.

I know it's for a type 4 motor, but I found it easier mounting the bell housing to the engine stand.

With the engine stand question, mostly what I've seen done is bolt a nice big heavy flat plate to the plate of the stand, and then bolt the engine (flywheel removed) directly up to that.

Ive also seen people bolt the flywheel directly to the plate using 4 clutch mounting bolts, but I personally wouldn't try that one - those M8 bolts are pretty teensie really.

I just finished mucking about with engine stands and rebuilding, had the same issue with my engine stand. On my engine I found taking the clutch plate off first then getting some bolts similar to the engine mounting bolts, packed with washers did the trick. I put a wad of rags over the bottom so the flywheel didnt rub, then carefully lowered it into place with an engine crane. The flywheel could spin freely once I removed the rags and the top two bolts with the washers held it in place even when I carefully tilted it to the side. Hope that helps.

Craig,

Where about's in Sydney are you, I have an impact screwdriver.

I'm in the Liverpool area, if that helps.

Send me a PM if you want to borrow it etc.

Kev

A 'make do' engine stand could be trouble. I have one that is made for VW engines. Using a top bolt and a bottom stud, one case half is secured to the stand, allowing all the bits to be removed and replaced (including the flywheel) without hassles. You can borrow this is you like - I'm in Bowral though, is that too far away?

Cheers, Greg

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies, I'll keep being patient and applying WD40 and give them some love taps with the hammer, but if that fails I'll take up your very kind offer Kev. BTW I'm in Blacktown aka God's own country.

Greg thanks for your offer as well, but I think they're reasonably cheap and my guess is that all the local dub shops (Volksbahn, Classic etc) will have VW specific stands, and if in doubt, there's always Vintage. TrickySimon, where did you get yours?? The cost has already been approved by the minister of finance, but I was trying to curry favour with her by borrowing instead of buying.

Will post more dumb questions at a later date.

Cheers
Craig

my last resource for removing stuck in bolt is to weld an easy to find bigger sized rooted hex bolt on top and screw it out

Craig, I got mine off ebay. I think the seller makes them.
I'll try and find his username for you.

Here you go, his username is yasdnil01 on ebay.
Looks like he sells alot of engine stands. Send him a message if you're interested

yasdnil01 is a member here too, he doesn't post much though.


Regards,

Matt.

Thanks Simon, I'll try that, I've had no joy with two Sydney shops so far, and trying to get through to a third.

Try Rod penrose..... I believe he donated the engine stands for Warwick.

Still to get to the guy on ebay (I have to register first before I can contact him), but I've already discovered a conspiracy, no VW shops sell engine stands because they fear people won't use their workshops. At least that's what I've decided after ringing around several this morning.

One thing suggested to me is that if I get the bench mounted one (which I have tracked down), then the shaft is likely to be the same size as the engine stand I've borrowed, so in theory it could slip straight in. Thoughts anyone?? Obviously I'd measure the one at home, go to the shop and check the measurement before buying.

Second question: how necessary is a stand. Apart from getting the oil out (which I could do by sitting the engine on two saw horses), I can't think of anything else it is completely necessary for, apart from ease of access??

Thanks for your help and ideas.

Craig

If your splitting the case its gunna be alot harder without a stand to take it apart and put it back together.
You can tilt the engine on its side and sit the crank, cam, rods etc in the half of the case connected to the stand.

Thanks DH,

I'm hopefull that I'll get it sorted tomorrow, but I still need to come and visit you to get some other stuff.
Craig

You have to be joking. Look here and go get one in the morning. I saw the bench type ones when I was there the other day.

CLICK HERE then type in engine stand and click search.

Kev

Thanks Kev,

Yes Classic have the bench mount ones, but he told me this morning that he didn't have any of the floor mount ones. So I'm heading over there tomorrow morning to measure the shaft, and if it is 60mm then it will slip straight in to the stand that I have, and my problem will be solved. Fingers crossed it is a fairly standard measurement. I'd use it on a bench, save for the fact that none of my benches could take the weight.

Craig

that stand should be fine mate. do you want me to come round and show you how? give me a call.

alternatively, I have a couple of spare belhousings we could use too.

Hi All,

Good news and bad news. Went and bought myself a vice grip and some big mother screwdrivers today (I told you I was a novice at these things), and therefore manged to get the remaining bolts out today, but one of the bolt heads came clean off with the vice grips. I sat there and contemplated this for a moment whilst staring at the bolt head resting comfortably in the vice grips, but given that I plan to replace the heads, this is just an annoyance rather than a catastrophe.

So anyway I took the spark plugs out and the rocker covers off as well, and they seemed cleanish. My daughter kept herself entertained by taking photos of the progress, the edited highlights of which are below.

More on the engine stand to follow.

The trials of the engine stand continue.

Prgoress report: Classic does indeed have bench mounted engine stands, but the diameter of the shaft on them is 40mm, and I need a 60mm shaft to fit the stand I have. So I gave that idea up for today, because I didn't have time to check out your generic motoring shop to see what size the shaft was on their stands.

I have now sent an email to the guy on ebay and hope to hear back soon.

In the meantime I bought some bolts (M10 - 100mm) and did a trial fit with the gear I already have. I will be removing the flywheel before attaching, but have to wait until Pete can come around with his 36mm socket and breaker bar, so it's there for the moment.

It bolts up easily through the two holes at the top, and then the bottom bolts can sit comfortably in the lower thingies (technical I know ) although the bottom bolts aren't long enough to peek out the other side and have a nut attached.

Only problem is that it fouls on the rim of the case (as can be seen in one of the photos below), and when bolted in tightly is likely to damage the rim. Is this a critical problem? Will I stuff the case if I do this??

Your forbearance of my ignorance is appreciated.

Craig

Hi

Just find some tube with a 10 mm ID to make spacers for the engine stand out of. Give those top head studs a good soaking in WD40 etc

Steve

Craig, I suggest using an upload site for your photos. Something like photo bucket is great, then you can have many more images in one post

Hi Colonel,

I have resisted long enough, now a member of photobucket, future posts should look much more snazzy.

Your brother in 1303
Craig

The engine stand will stuff the case if left like it is. Some flat shim/steel or ally to pack up the gap could work, but I prefer to have a larger syrface to bear against and spread the load.

I dunno bout the stand but ive just started to pull apart a 1200 or 1300 engine to 'give it a clean' and check it out see ow it all works etc, youll have lots of fun

Howdy yasdnil01 here, I don't post much because I'm the strong silent type ......lol
Yeah I make engine stands, in fact I make several different versions for vw and porsche engines as well as other vw air cooled tools mostly for type 1 - 3 engines 1100cc - 1600cc
Anyhow if anyone needs a engine stand like a bench mounted one or a free standing floor roll around one contact me and I'll
send some pics and prices.
My engine stands are not cheapo Chinese ones like the other guys sell
Australian made !
By an Australian manufacture

almetal@bravo.net.au

Ohh what another slick bit of self promotion !

good to see 8mm head studs and it even still has the hoover bit, awesome