I'd noticed that when my accelerator pedal was all the way down the throttle levers (stock dual solex carbs) were only about 2/3 open, so I decided to adjust the cable at the cross-link so that when the pedal is all the way down the throttle levers are at max.

The trouble is, now when my foot is off the pedal the throttles are still about 1/3 open, so it idles like a formula one car going down the home straight.

It's as if the pedal range isn't big enough. How am I supposed to get the full range of movement from the throttle levers?

Thanks

I had a similar problem with my 75 kombi. I ended up bending the tab on the throttle linkage between the carbs so that less cable travel was required to obtain the full travel of the carby butterflies. I simply bent it so that the cable attachment point was closer to the linkage bar.

However, there is probably a reason why the situation occurs in the first place. I doubt very much that the vehicles were made like that, so there must be another problem somewhere. The first place to look would be in the throttle pedal itself. Check to make sure that the pivots are not loose.

fatboy had that exact problem with his bus, but paid to have it repaired. I'm sure he would be able to give you the details of what was done though, if you U2U him.

Are we talking a stock situation here? Type 1?? If so there has to be a reason. In my experience, a poss explanation is that the accel cable is not going from where it pops out from the back of the pan DIRECTLY to the conduit that that goes thru the fan housing. I've had them hooked up or twisted around the clutch etc etc. It's worth a look!
My problem is that I've got a 1600 where a 1200 was & the cable is too short (I think). I may have to butt weld a length of nail to the bit that attaches to the carb.

Hi

With the Kombi, try vacuming the floor where the pedal attaches to the linkage.

With the Beetle. Most RHD Beetles with the 40 hp style of accelerator pedal and linkage, suffer from a lack of full throttle. The accelerator rod, which runs through the centre of the pedal cluster, bends towards the front of the car. To remedy this, select a large shifter and put it around the rod at position just inboard of the bend in the shaft with the handle in the vertical plane. Now put a large screwdriver or jack handle in the hole in the end of the shifter and twist it clockwise slightly, twisting the shaft back towards the rear of the car. This will counteract the bending forces built up over many years of trying to squeeze the very last from those 40 horses.

1302Steve

Thanks for the replies. We're talking kombi not beetle.

I've cleaned the crud from under the pedal linkage .I have to do this every day because I park on dirt, and stones get carried in by my shoes. It seems to me that this is one verd bad bit of design: surely they could have come up with a simple pedal mechanism that doesn't get blocked by the slightest bit of dirt.

I agree that there has to be a good explanation, and a good solution. I'll U2U fatboy to find out what he's learned.