hey guys ,
i am thinking of putting a 1600 donk i have into my 56 oval and quickly getting it on the road for valla will it bolt straight in, it
still has the stock 36 horse in it
david
Yep, it will bolt straight in, although you will have to sawp the flywheel and clutch plate over from the 36hp to the 1600.
Easy as pie 
Dave , you will have to cut the back piece of engine tin down to fit too. Getting the 1600 in will be a bit of a challene too. I find it easier just
to strip the exhaust and carby off to fit the motor and refit them when its in.
You may also find that the right hand side valve cover wire bailey thing (holds the valve cover on) might strike the body beneath the bumper mount.
im about to do this too with my '56 for Valla next week.
those tips r helpful, thanks...
i'll let u know how it goes
sounds like you know ,is that what yours has in it ,cool, i am going for the rat look at valla ,rusty old roof rack ,dings and faded paint i have some
wide rims that i will throw on it hope to have it on club rego for valla ,will post some pics
dave:o:o
this is supplying the bits for my 56
Sounds cool Dave, yep mines a 1600 SP. Another tip when cutting down the back peice of tin and that is to cut the back not the front if you are
running std 1600 exhaust with working heaters. Cover the cut edge with some rubber strips to stop it cutting up the rear engine seal.
Dave, you coming up with our group on the Wednesday?
Sam, be good to meet up with you up there.
When I ordered my engine from Stan "The Man" I made sure he knew it was going into an Oval. I think he then had install a disc on the clutch
'leaves' thing-ame-jigs that the thrust bearing pushes against (the late model / early model are different).
You will need to keep your 6V flywheel only if you want to keep the Oval 6volt electrics. I went 12V so I had to grind the bellhousing of the early
gearbox a bit. The teeth of the flywheel do a good job of that but make sure you remove all the fine alloy shavings.
Hope this makes sense :o
with the stock 36hp (split gearbox ) you're asking for trouble. I would not consider this as a viable option.
No syncro's on first, bellhouse needing clearancing, starter motor bush need's re-sizing to fit 12v starter, and the thrust bearing arm has
a weaker setup.
How keen are you ?
Why not put the "donor" car gearbox in ?
Oops, forgot I already had a 40hp tranny in the Oval.

You could change the fly wheel to 6V and use the spit box. 6V starter will last OK if the engine starts easy. I have a 40hp box in mine. Ratios are a
bit low (stump puller) and the 6V starters still going OK.
If you changed the over to the 66 box it would widen the track if it has 4 bolt wheels. (Not sure of the years)
Would also need to change the front gearbox mount. Or change the nose cone over to the split case one (if you can with the 66 gear box)
You wouldnt want to go grinding up a good split case tranny. There getting hard to find now.
more options, maybe i,ll just swap bodys over.(joking ) it sounds sensible to change gearboxes as well , is this straight forward will the box and
drive shafts brakes etc bolt straight in(the donor has all new brakes in front and back, oh yeah the donor is wide 5 pattern i think its a 66, maybe a
little earlier in the pic it has a later boot but an early dash????????
dave:o:o
[Edited on 6-7-2003 by david]
[Edited on 6-7-2003 by david]
David
| Quote: |
so does that mean the motor and box should go in together sounds easier ,is it a fairly straight fit
dave and confused:o:o
im abit confused too.
Well as the question or i will ring you if u U2U me your Phone number and explain
I'm getting confused too.
As I see it the engine and gear box will fit straight in as long as the following are true.
- Change the front gearbox mount. Weld on a tunnel case mount or swap the split case nose cone over.
- the wide 5 stud axles are the same lenght as the split case ones. A quick measure with a tape will tell you.
- the shock absorber mounts line up OK.
Dave? is this correct!
Yes that correct, If your Oval has the wrap around front box mount them you have to either weld later type on or find a split Kombi nose cone which would be bloody hard
if i already hav a 1600tp and irs box in my oval and i am replacing them, does this mean i can just swap them over?
or do i hav to modify the new engine and box in any way. i already modified the breast plate tin today so it would clear the rear valance, anything
else?