hey people
everyone has hgad trouble with these buggers give us the techniques you use!
just to help everyone out like me!!!
cheers
rhys
best device i use is the one the boys at V Force knocked up.
Weld up some steel plate and pipe so you make up like a lagre axe.
The pipe needs to be say 50mm dia and say 1 metre long.
The head needs to be say 5mm thick and enough for the pipe to clear the drum and be able to get to bolts onto the drum. Say 300mm x 150mm
You bolt the head onto the drum and the handle wedges against the floor.
With a breaker bar they WILL come off :thumb
[Edited on 8-7-2003 by blue74l]
hey blue
can u get a picture???
cheers
rhys
Yeah - but wont be until the weekend at the earliest
I havent had any trouble for years ........... about ten years ago i made my own breaker bar.......
here is the recipe...
1100mm of 25 mm steel bar, get the end about 150mm bent right angles and weld a 3/4 drive to it , get a 36 mm or whatever socket in 3/4 drive and
never have a problem again
i tried a socket on a breaker bar and then a 3 metre long bar onto it but it would budge at all !!!!!
cheers
rhys
I park the fron of the Dog-O-War against a tree (Hand brake not tight enough), wack on the 36mm and the 3m breaka bar, get the wife and kids on the
back seat for traction and step off the roof rack onto the breakabar. Works jut fine. Have to hang off it for the other side.
Wife dosent appreciate being used for ballast.
Neighbour couldn't believe it when I did it last time - he said he'd bring over his torque wrench to tighten them - I passed as it was heaps
too small.
Hey Rhys, get yourself one of these. Bought it from Mr Bug years ago for $15. Best buy ever. You stick it on the axle nut and hammer the crap out of
it
Hey Bronze, what's the highest you've ever been catapulted when the nut hasn't budged?
:cry
Hi
I use a 3/4 breaker bar with a big bit of pipe. I use a 3/4 tension wrench to tighten the nuts, you would be surprised how little tension is needed
for the correct torque.
1302Steve
Took the bug into Werners VW centre here in Cairns a couple of years back for a bit of work, when I went back to pick it up I found that I was up for
a new right hand axle !!!
(insert heavy German accent here) "Two of us were bouncing up and down on a 2 metre bar trying to undo the wheel nut, next thing, we were both
lying on the ground !!.
He showed me the axle, it had snapped clean off about 2 inches back from the threaded section. On closer inspection, you could see it was an old
crack. Lucky for me it gave way then and not when I was doing 100 K's down the Highway !!!
Hmm, closest I can get to a German accent is semi-Arnold Schwarzeneger, but it had my wife pissing herself laughing. Very funny image!!
I use a 36 or 46mm (depending on what I'm working on) socket with the appropriate sized ratchet/sliding T and a 5' length of 30mm RHS which
has a slightly larger section of RHS slipped over one end and welded on, so it fits over the ratchet handle. I also use this on the wheel brace when
necessary.
I have several of these breaker bars, so I can extend them 5' at a time - they are tent pole sections for my home-made tarp frame.
Here is what I made to hold the axle while I work on the nut. Just bolt it on, slide another length of water pipe into the 2 inch peice you can see
here and off you go. Hope this helps Kombi_kid.
Mark
If they are so tight even a 6 foot bar wont budge them , you are better off splitting them with a cold chisel. Between the castelations is a good place. Chuck em away and get new ones.