Gurus,

Just wondering if anyone can tell me if I have to put a washer/etc between the oil cooler and the block adaptor. From what I can see...when I tighten the two top nuts securing the oil cooler onto the seals there is a gap between the cooler and the adaptor at the bottom. As the seals are level and flat...if I tighten the bottom nut it would pull the cooler base down at an angle and maybe make it not sit on the seals properly??

No, there's nothing in-between the cooler and adaptor except the seals. Make sure you have the right ones!

You tighten all three nuts evenly; that is, gradually snug up all three together. The oil cooler should end up mounted exactly vertically, and the seals will crush slightly. Tighten the nuts to 6 ft-lbs.

Thanks for that Phil, yes..I've got the correct seals..stepped either side and genuine German black ones from Volksbahn.
I'll probably use a metal set square to make sure it is vertical.

Oh..I have got a "Hoover" bit as well, it was missing when I dissassembled it, from what I can make out it is a pretty vital piece of tinware for directing air over the cooler itself?

Check very carefully on the engine block where the cooler mounts for cracks.

Where the cooler mounts to the adaptor or where the adaptor mounts to the block?

Where the adaptor mounts to the block, and underneath.... the cases are prone to cracking there causing oil leaks

Hi Steve, yes the ones I got from Volksbahn are exactly the same shape as the ones above...but in Black rubber with a VW part Number on them. Made in Germany is says on them.

Hi

The type 3 ones look very similar, but are fatter and smaller diameter. What part number is on them?

Steve

Well, I have installed the oil cooler seals and in the process I made a few discoveries.

Firstly, when I was dissassembling the top of the motor to get at the doghouse and the oil cooler, I noticed that the inlet manifold for NOs 1 and 2 cylinders was held on buy just one very very loose nut instead of 2 nice tight ones. I can imagine the amont of air that would've been sucked in as a consequense. This air leak was confirmed when I pulled the spark plugs out and found both of them almost a Light Brown..confirming a leaner mixture leading to a hotter burn.
After removing the generator and the stand along with the fuel pump...I removed the dissy and was a bit stunned to find that there was no rubber O ring fitted. Maybe this was also a reason why there was a goodly amount of oil leaking from this motor?

I took my time and refitted all the parts agin with new gaskets and at the correct torque. I used all new stainless nuts with spring washers on everything I could find and hopefully this will keep it all together in future. After assembly I gave the starter a turn and it sprung into life inatantly and settled down to a nice idle very quickly.
Instead of having a slight hesitation on accelleration..it now picks up quite nicely and smoothly. My daughter now has to modify her driving to take into account the extra boost from a correctly running engine...lol.

so, How tight do You do up the doghouse seal nuts???

do You keep going until there is NO gap??

do You put washers in between the oil cooler and case?

do You use nyloc nuts? so they can't come loose?

and finally-
Have you ever had oil cooler seals leak???

LEE

Hi Lee, from the pics you have posted it looks as though the non doghouse oil cooler lays flat over the cylinders?..is that right? The oil cooler on Kirstey's motor is the same as yours..but it stands upright inside the shroud body.
There are 4 seals used on my daughter's motor. 2 between the 90 degree adaptor and the engine block and 2 between the adaptor and the oil cooler itself. I torqued the 3 x 10mm nuts with spring washers that hold the oil cooler to the adaptor to 8 ft/lb and the 3 x 13mm nuts with spring washers that hold the adaptor to the block to 15 ft/lb. The seals just sit in the recessed holes in the block,adaptor and oil cooler..there is no 'stainless washers' anywhere that I could find.
On the bottom of the oil cooler there was also an angled piece of metal called a ' Hoover Bit"..this helps seal the oil cooler into the vertical doghouse cooler to ensure that adequate air is forced to flow over the alloy fins to ensure good cooling takes place. The seals are black rubber from Germany and they have the VW logo on them, I got them from the lady at VolksBahn..about $2 each. They are the same shape as the ones pictured and are about 12mm inside diameter.

Hi

Lee, your motor is using a type 3 case, depending on the model it could use the late or early seals. Did you enlarge the mounting holes to 8 mm or were they that size already?

Steve