Its only the sc12's that have teflon coated rotors isn't it?

I just popped mine open and it looks like magnesium alloy, with plenty of corrosion. I was just thinking of giving them a wire wheel clean up. They look smooth, no massive cracks or nothing, but looks like that kinda 'fine sand coat' that mag alloy looks to have when 'weathered'.

the gear train and oil is great and clean, like brand new. But the rotors needs a good clean.

Does that sound alright to you? I haven't checked the bearings yet, will have to see, assuming they aren't the fully sealed sort. Do they run on teh oil, or on their on grease?

The seals in the supercharger must be alright as there is no oil on the rotors...

any help would be great. I'm hoping they aren't meant to have the coating.

Chris.

Chris that 14 of mine had the fluorine resin coating but there was a few different models so maybe some didnt

when the bearings in them start to get sloppy the lobes scrape the outside which starts to wear it off the tips

ah ok. maybe thats whats on the rotors. It just has this wierd corrosion thing happening.

And has a this luvely grind noise in it coming from the rotors and is difficult to turn. Lets hope its not the rotors scraping teh sides hey? sounds nasty :P

I popped the inlet and outlet off, and had a look, and it looks like the corrosion stuff on the rotors rubbing off each other. I won't know till i pull it apart. But i got it for peanuts dollars wise.

I would pull it apart now, but I can't get the clutch pulley off cause the owner before the last welded it solidly together. will pull the grinder out maybe tomorrow morning. Not much to them though for what price tag they have. To think u can buy a whole running good stock dub motor for $500 or get a supercharger for the same price lol. thankfully i didn't pay that

I'm sorry to hear it's all corroded inside Chris.
Obviously the bloke that had it before me did have it under cover very much.
I hope the other one I have sitting at home isn't too bad inside.

It was great to meet you today. Take it easy man.



Smiley

Oh and.....................pictures??



Smiley

before you spend any money on it suss out if the bearings are any good.

a few people on the toyota forums have managed to get NOS bearings out of singapore but cos they're a funny size (23MM OD from memory) theres no generic replacements

is there enough meat to bore the od out?

Hi Guys. yea thanks smiley, i think this sc14 will be ok It was great to meet ya and see ur beast, and thanks for all the tips too, u certainly know ur stuff. Simply put, now i can't wait to get on the road now after seeing urs.

I see the resin coating, its thick. Misc scratches and a few chips but still appears fine. But the side walls of the inside of the housinhg is just coated in corrosion. I will gently whire wheel. I don't know how to remove the rotors from the gear train side to clean the bearing face surface, cause it makes ikk noises there... i think its just ribbish. I might just see if i can slide a think cloth in.... and rub it out. or wd40? (I'm out of degreaser lol)

Yea i read the bearings were a mungrel to replace and often enough alo9t of people machine em out for a common size. But yea, if there are oem replacements somewhere, i will be keen. But i think they are great! I checked and they seem tight, no noise. We will see if there is any slop after i clean it up and put it all together though. If it still scrapes on the side of teh housing, we know its gone pear shaped. I have already started cleaning the insides. will get pics of whats left. The resin on the rotors just whiped clean with a rag but boy were they grubby. Easy fix though.

I think i can get this one to work for me though, i'm not worried.

For those interested who are after seal kits and misc/oil for these toyota supechargers, you can obtain them from the following: (inc. sc12 and sc14)

http://www.kbox.ca/catalog/index.php?cPath=39_64_70&sort=2a&page=2 

Daniel, a seal kit for the sc12 was $29.99, not 27.99, sorry man. i assume usd.

Oh! by the way Daniel, don't appologise (like u did above ) for all the issues, we knew this supercharger wasn't 'all there', and it had its quirks. Hence the price. I am not phased at all, i was prepared to accept it as being a dud. But i got good news!

I have cleaned up all the internals, and wirewheeled /lightly sanded the inside housing, and alloy inside the riotors, and on the end caps. Didn't use any abrasive cleaning on the fluride resin stuff. It didn't need it. there was alot of rubbish and gunk, and was so stubborn. Being alloy, i was gentle to some degree because its soft. I got a damp coth and sopped up what other rubbish and residue remained. If there is any other fine dust particulates i will just blow it out by running it when i get it sorted on the motor (one day). i will just vent it straight to atmostphere till i rekon its all ok.

So yea, cleaned it all up, checked teh bearings again, they are great. I resealed it and assembled. Its all put back toghether and bolted up (except for teh gear train, the end cap is not over it yet because i need new oil. i don't need a new seal though, the rubber seal is in great condition.

The great thing about this unit, is the design for the toyota superchargers look very reliable, cause they appear to be so rugged and sturdy. They appear to be the kind of ancillary to take a bit of abuse and a bit of hard work without catastrophic consequences. But we will soon find out one day when i get it going. I have duct taped the inlet and outlet for the time being. I couldn't help but want to see how it went, so i got a got a ribbed belt and firmly held it tight with a power drill at the other end and spun it around. The charger went great for a low rev, no whine though lol. but seemed fine. I didn't want to go nuts cause of no oil. it was for a short time.

It turns easy now, with a slight rubbing sound, (very light), its coming from inside where the rotors are, but turns 1000% better and easily. It just seems impossible to get rid of all the alloy dust inside. After running on the poewr drill for a minute it seemd to loosten itself up. I guess it hasn't been used for a while. the sound is getting less every time. (very fine sound... not bad alt all).. I'll just stick with the 'blow it out' idea when i bolt it up and just blow to atmostphere to clear what ever dust remains. Then it should be all set to go.

pics:

The scaley corrosion crud inside everywhere (except bearins and gear train thankfully). OMG!



Rotorlicious. Mild scratches and chips. i'm not alarmed, i don't think i should be. Should still push plenty of air, can really feel a breeze from it. The scratches are only scratches, it hasn't grinded a flat spot or anything dramatic.




inside housing prior to cleaning. omg.




Thats better



Slap it back together




Bogan trial run. Didnt' wanna get a toe caught in there. Imagine putting a finger in at 5000 rpm when its bolted... eek..




Thats all for today folks, will have to wait till after exams (2 and a bit weeks) for the magic to happen.

someone looks after the toe nails

Ohhh yea sucker for a pedicure

the oil for them has always been a contentious topic in toyota circles mainly due to the price for what it is.

$60 for 50ml of oil is a joke, especially when a dry fill they take about 300ml

I and many others have just used synthetic blend tranny oil which seems to work fine

haha, i didn't even get a chance to look for oil's yet. But wow! TALK ABOUT RIP JOB. Will certainly take the synthetic blend.

Any specific consistency? or just a mid range? Thanks for the Joel.

I've still got the bottle of whatever i used so i'll see what it is

1L bottle from cheapskateauto and done an oil change on 2 of my blowers and still half left
it was about $15 from memory

Great so see that it cleaned up well Chris. I was worried about it for a while there. I can wait to blow mine apart and start getting it ready.


Smiley