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NON VW. Which is harder?
71-BEETLE-SEDAN - August 21st, 2010 at 07:51 AM

Hi all, i recently replaced a steering rack on a car. It now needs new CV's.

Which is harder. Is replacing a rack harder or easier then cvs.

The car is a daihatsu charade. So front engined and front wheel drive.

Thanks


bugzla - August 21st, 2010 at 08:02 AM

u can buy replacement shafts for the price of 2 cv's well there abouts from cbc bearings also look into getting a gearbox bung to stop the flow of gearbox oil coming out


Joel - August 21st, 2010 at 09:06 AM

It's got me stuffed why people spend $100+ on exchange shafts when you can get new joints for 1/3 the Price

I've used 5 now from the CVjointspecialist on ebay for $35 each and been happy with them

They usually knock off the shaft pretty easy but every now and again you'll get a stubborn fecker that just wont budge, BFH never fails though


bugzla - August 21st, 2010 at 09:24 AM

depends if people know wether there is a inner clip inside or not cvs are cheaper and are easy if u know the tricks per car and there joint i will only ever change a cv over a shaft with my bug cause of the simplicity of it


71-BEETLE-SEDAN - August 21st, 2010 at 11:43 AM

Okay, so do you guys reckon it would be easier or harder than replacing the steering rack, i mean the whole job though, removing etc


68AutoBug - August 21st, 2010 at 02:01 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by 71-BEETLE-SEDAN
Hi all, i recently replaced a steering rack on a car. It now needs new CV's.

Which is harder. Is replacing a rack harder or easier then cvs.

The car is a daihatsu charade. So front engined and front wheel drive.

Thanks


I think You need to know what is holding the axles in the gearbox.. type of circlip??

I've greased early Magna ones , etc.. and replaced the seals in the gearbox... wasn't too difficult I don't think??

cheers

LEE


bajachris88 - August 21st, 2010 at 02:50 PM

Hey man,

Would involve just the same mucking around. Its a job that doesn't require a professional mechanic to do... But just a bit of patience.

If u have a workshop manual, you will be set. Google is ur friend. :tu:
I second the advice in regards to keeping the old shafts and installing new cv joints on the shafts as a way of keeping things cheap. You will need to change the transaxle fluid as well.

Your pretty much removing both axle nuts and undoing whatever connects the hubs to the lower control arms (eg: ball joint etc) and the struts and silp them off the axles.

Then as everyone mentions, you have to 'dislocate' the cv joint from the transmission, and the methodology is dependant on the vehicles fastening setup. Most have a circlip that 'pops' off with a bit of leverage. What ever you do, don't try to pull the axle shafts out of the gearbox by yanking on the shaft as it will dislocate the cv joint from the shaft and will remain in the gearbox (sometimes). Unless you don't care about the shaft then don't stress.

you most likely will have one short shaft and one long shaft, there may also be some bolts to undo midway on the long shaft as there is often a shaft bearing and support that bolts onto the engine block to hold the longer axle.

Visual inspection is ur guide. :tu:
Just need to confirm 1) how the cv's are held in there, you could find out by observing new ones (just pics off the net, heck post em here)
and 2) what gearbox oil you need to refill ur transaxle.

Youtube has an online tutorial on how to replace cv's on shafts... its good stuff! here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZoa1hTM74U 


Smiley - August 21st, 2010 at 04:27 PM

Also make sure that the face where the CV bolts up to and the face on the Cv are completely clean. I don't just mean wiped off. Clean with brake cleaner or degreaser and make sure they are completely dry afterwards. Otherwise your CV's can work themselves loose over time.



Smiley :cool:


toplessbug - August 23rd, 2010 at 10:02 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Smiley
Also make sure that the face where the CV bolts up to and the face on the Cv are completely clean. I don't just mean wiped off. Clean with brake cleaner or degreaser and make sure they are completely dry afterwards. Otherwise your CV's can work themselves loose over time.



Smiley :cool:

what are you talking about man its a daihatsu charade it is spline drive on the inner and outer
just unbolt the lower arm remove the stub assembly whip out the old in with the new replace stub assy job done --piece of piss


Smiley - August 24th, 2010 at 01:01 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by toplessbug
Quote:
Originally posted by Smiley
Also make sure that the face where the CV bolts up to and the face on the Cv are completely clean. I don't just mean wiped off. Clean with brake cleaner or degreaser and make sure they are completely dry afterwards. Otherwise your CV's can work themselves loose over time.



Smiley :cool:

what are you talking about man its a daihatsu charade it is spline drive on the inner and outer
just unbolt the lower arm remove the stub assembly whip out the old in with the new replace stub assy job done --piece of piss



Oh....I see.

I've got VW's in mind. I only work on good cars :lol::lol::lol::lol:



Smiley :cool: