Hey guys,

So I just got my bug back from the mechanic, I wish I knew more about my car mechanically, Its cost me quite a bit, but, thankfully, its driving like a fun old car now.... except for one thing...

When I take off in first gear 70% of the time it shudders, rangeing from mild to pretty bad, it does it sometimes very slightly in second, it doesn't do it at all in reverse, or 3rd of 4th, and never on the down change.

The cars been sitting for about 6 months prior to all the regular driving, the clutch has been adjusted recently just before I got it blue slipped.

Any ideas what might be going on? If I have to tell my wife I'm up for another $500 for the repair she will probably go ape shit on my ass.

I'll give a case of your choice of beer to any one that can help me sort this on the cheap... I read somewhere it could be the "bowden tube" I dont even know where to look for that! Forgive my noobness.

Cheers.. Benny.

Last car I had that happen to was because the preasure plate had stuffed "fingers", a new preasure plate fixed it, but I'm no mechanic as others on here will vouch for.

Mine does that all the time as well. It can be fixed, but I'm just too lazy to adjust it, lol!

The Bowden tube is the outer flexible tube part of the clutch cable, like the black plastic tube around a bicycle brake cable. It's supposed to have a bit of a bend in it, so if yours is too straight, you can space it out from the clutch end to make it bendier. If you jack the back of the car up, take off the left rear wheel and look under there, you'll see this (with a lot more body panels in the way):



If you undo the clutch wing nut, then you can push the cable back out of the little bracket which holds it and slot some washers over the end of it. The washers which are used on the cylinder head studs are the perfect size if you have any spare. Then you would have to put the cable back on the clutch arm and adjust it correctly. Do you have a workshop manual for the car? Most manuals describe the procedure pretty well.

Could also be a broken front transmission mount.

DH

Hey waveman,

Nope, nope and nope, I basically have nothing to work on the car with, this is my first dub and actually the first car I have owned in 5 years, (been living in Singapore) I have a Haynes Manual and I have a "How to keep your Volkswagen alive" book in the post as we speak, I went down stairs before with a torch to see if I could see anything under the car but its so low I cant see a thing haha .. I was considering jacking the car up but I also read the warning saying not to slide under the car when its up on the stock jack. I might need to go and buy some stands to prop the car up so I can get under and have a look. :P Hence the call out to Sydney dubbers for any one interested in a case of beer as a trade for some expertise. Obviously if its more than the bowden tube I'll take to it a workshop.. Got my fingers crossed for a easy fix.

Ben,

I really hope it is something simple did it start occurring after you had it serviced? I'm sure the boys at RAW could have a look at it for you? I'd be happy to keep your car at my place if they dont have the room.

Hey Paul,

Hows it goin dude? Its been doin it ever since I drove it.. Driving it in city traffic tonight it was pretty persistent. Thought it might have been me drivin it wrong, but I'm used to driving it now, then I thought it might have been cause its been sitting for a long time, but its still doing it now, would love to get someone to have a look at the bowden tube and see if they think it needs adjusting. Haven't spoken to bays at RAW yet.. feel a bit bad lumping them with my problems :P If I cant find some help close to me I'll give them a shout tomorrow.

Cheers for the offer to store my car.. your a champion mate. I'll let you know

my old 58 used to do this when the bowden tube was buggered. Its an easy fix as described above. Its common for the service guys to lert this go unfortunately, as the car can still operate well enough, but i reckon its a good thing for you to replace or pack out with washers as it will expand your knowledge of how your car runs and give you a greater connection with your bug! if the shudder is still there after you do the bowden tube, it is more likely a problem with the clutch and you only need worry about that if it happens as this will mean the motor needs to come out. a small part of me is excited for you as these are some of the challenges that are so much fun with a new car. fun and triumph if you get it fixed, challenge and right pain in the arses if it continues, but story telling stuff all the same!!

good luck!
dubjunky

our old 1973 L Bug ran a 1500cc Single port for a few weeks a year ago and we had the same problem, turns out it got worse and worse untill the fly wheel came off so its definatly your clutch or flywheel or sumthing in that area to do with that.

From Dylan

Mine does the same thing, its been doing it now for nearly 2 years, its a stuffed front trans mount.

When i drive it i have to saty either on the gass fully or idle around. Preety anoying but ive gotten used to it.

Id be happy to come have a look at it but ive got jobs and other cars to work on for about the next month but after that id been more than happy to come give you a hand.

As for the stands jack the car up high enough to see where you think a comfortable height to get under it would be then measure to a strong enoug point to place jack stands.
Then if you take that height to any small metal working shop they should be able to make you some stands up for cheaps. Its all i did with mine.

Quote:

Originally posted by waveman1500 Mine does that all the time as well. It can be fixed, but I'm just too lazy to adjust it, lol! The Bowden tube is the outer flexible tube part of the clutch cable, like the black plastic tube around a bicycle brake cable. It's supposed to have a bit of a bend in it, so if yours is too straight, you can space it out from the clutch end to make it bendier. If you jack the back of the car up, take off the left rear wheel and look under there, you'll see this (with a lot more body panels in the way): If you undo the clutch wing nut, then you can push the cable back out of the little bracket which holds it and slot some washers over the end of it. The washers which are used on the cylinder head studs are the perfect size if you have any spare. Then you would have to put the cable back on the clutch arm and adjust it correctly. Do you have a workshop manual for the car? Most manuals describe the procedure pretty well.

Ha, and I thought mine had been bodgied up. Mine had a large nut about 8-10 mm thick in there with a slot cut in it so it could be dropped over the clutch cable to negate the need to undo the adjusting nut, havn't tried it since I removed the nut, at least I'll now know what the problem is if it gives me trouble. Should have consulted the bible b4 I did it.

A couple of us have mentioned the front transmission mount! When you go for a drive again take note if the gear stick gets forward/backward movement on acceleration/deceleration. Generally a sure sign of the cracked front transmission mount. Get it fixed otherwise you can stuff the selector housing as well. You'll also notice the difference in gear change as well as no clunking going over speed bumps!

DH

I had the same problem a few weeks after this thread started
so i replaced my front mount since the 2 rear were new
anyway i found that the front mount rubber had separate from metal
thanks guys

also... a bit of pain changing fromt mount when engine is in lol

Well I have checked the gear stick when changing gears, mines rock solid, and there are no weird clunks when I go over speed bumps etc.

I'm gonna buy a floor jack and some stands this weekend, get under there and see how my clutch / bowden tube looks, Hopefully I can sort it out. Stay tuned.

Tighten nose cone and add shimms. fixed!

Well.. I tried my best to remedy the shaky clutch, You can see in the image below the bowden tube was almost straight, Its probably a little more bent than it seems here because its bending towards toe camera, Where you can see the washer, I inserted 2 more washers slightly thicker than the one you can see in there already.. Its created about an inch of bend in the tube.. Tightened everything up and no improvement.

I didn't manage to get an image of the tube after I'd finished, my hands were a mess and I didn't want to dirty up my wifes camera.



Guess the next thing is to get the clutch checked out.

UPDATE.

Hey guys,

So I had some time free to get under my car tonight and have a look at the front trans mount as many of you suggested, there was not a lot of room under there, so I could not get a pry bar in to see if it would move around, but I managed to snap some good pics.

There seems to be quite a bit of oil around the base.. Is that a sign its time to replace ?





Cheers.

I dunno, but wow, it is a good camera

I would suggest that the tube in the tunnel that houses the clutch cable has come away from its welds, that bowden tube is straight. The tube needs to be pushed back and rewelded into place, its easier if the bowden tube is removed to get it into the right position.The front mount looks fine, the oil is coming from the nosecone, make sure the breather is clear and replace the hockey stick seal

Thanks 66brm,

So once I remove the Bowden tube, I should be able to see the start of the pipe in the tunnel, and that "Should" be attached and not flopping about in there?

Ben.

Yep it should be welded ta both ends and a common fix to the problem is to install an additional bracket in the tunnel to support the middle and stop flexing. A good vw workshop should be able to do it properly. Unfortunately I'm in Perth so I can't recommend anyone over there

Thanks dude.. I am gonna speak to the guys at RAW and see if they can help me out with the tranny, there seem to be a lot of little things that could be and probably are contributing to my problems..

Thanks for your suggestion.

Definately a possibility, easier place to check the tube is still attached is from under the rear seat, open the gearshift coupling panel on top of the tunnel and with some good light you should be able to see the tube on the top left running at a slight angle. You should also be able to see the weld too.