Ok, I am a newb when it comes to kombis but I'm hoping to learn along the way so plz bare with me Basically, I'm looking at buying a kombi for a bit of weekend fun and some time down the track a bigger road trip... i'm not expecting much for the amount of money i'm wanting to spend (approx 1k) but am intending on having the engine reconditioned, body spifffied up and resprayd and redo all the interior anyway...

The kombi I have i mind seems to be perfect for my intentions (it is 900$, brand spankin tyres, straight body etc) altho the guy has told us that the gaskets need to be replaced. Just wondering how much this would cost and how big a job it would be or. Also, it is a 1973 model and I'm pretty sure he said it was a dual carb so am wondering whether it is a 1.6,1.8, or2 ? cheers

[Edited on 20-7-2003 by rice_girl]

My advice would be to get one already done. If you buy one that's been done properly, you will pay alot more initially, but it will be less in the end. Make sure you take it to someone that knows what they're talking about to give an honest opinion about the car before you buy it. Don't take it to someone that may have an interest in the car. The problem with kombis is that there could be many underlying problems especially for new players.

That aside, good luck. Just realise, once you've got one, you'll never let it go and you'll only want more and more. So start saving!!!!!!!!!

1973 is tricky to guess engine size.
Its possible that it is 1600 from factory but aftermarket twin carbs put on. But it could also have be any size as the 1700, 1800, 2000 all are basically the same engine and parts swap over. 1700's are usually rebuilt as 1800's but either could be made to 2000. If you can get the engine number I can tell you what it was originally.

Personally I wouldnt buy a 1600 one. I dont think the engines are strong enough to pull all that weight. No engine rebuild will be cheap. A workshop will probably hit your for $4000ish for a rebuild of the 1700-2000 variety.

I'll give you a quick rust checklist.
along the bottom of the front panel. around every window, especially under the side quarter vents.
around the roof gutters especially at the back corners.
Bottoms of the doors (not just the visible bit, lie on the ground and look up)
Lift the mats in the front.
The steps to get in the front. If they have plastic on them then lift it up.
at the back look down near the bumper. towards the ends where there is a body seam.
Aaaaand all the way along the sill panels ei the bottoms of both sides.
If there is no rust in these places then "I" say it is worth maybe 3 to 4 thousand!

Mechanically... if the engine is sound then on top of your rust free $4K car then it takes the total to $5500 - $6000. Have you driven it? There are lots of VW's out there with shocking gearboxes. You may be lucky and find a bad gearshift is just a matter of replacing some cheap plastic bushes. Then if all the window and door rubbers are good add another $1000. It cost me $1300 to replace every rubber in my kombi 10 years ago.

A good kombi is NOT a cheap car. I would pay (if I had the money) 8 or 9 thousand for a good kombi with nothing to spend. I know it would cost me possibly twice that to restore one.

A kombi is awesome though. Nothing compares. When you travel down a highway watching it roll under the windscreen, you are getting waves from just about every other kombi on the road, it just feels so good. I love mine, even though it is a bashed and beaten tired old warrior.

$900 ,can you say in a clint eastwood voice,DO I FEEL LUCKY WELL DO YA P__K,anyway just kidden,welcome rice_girl.Spend some money on an inspection PLEASE:o

Good luck rice girl! Kombis rule!!!

Another very important place to check for rust: the battery trays (the flat bits either side of the motor, underneath where the air vents come donw to).

Welcome to the forum rice_girl. :thumb

For $900 you can't really go too wrong. Whatever is wrong with it, it would still have to be worth $900 in parts alone.

I'm a bit undecided on the best way to buy a car: start with a cheapie and build it up, or pay the extra for something already done?

The fact is, you will never really know what is beneath the surface. I ran a compression test on my kombi before I bought it (2 years ago) and was very happy with the results, yet during my current engine rebuild I discovered that EVERYTHING in the motor needed reconditioning (ie. more than 2 years worth of wear). I think there is a very good argument for starting with a cheapie and having the work done yourself, because then you actually know what has been done. You can never tell otherwise how many shortcuts have been taken. I know it costs twice as much, but at least you have the satisfaction of knowing exactly what condition your vehicle is in.

With the $900 kombi you are looking at; it could be that the gaskets that need replacing are actually only the pushrod tube 'O'-rings, which is a relatively easy job in a motor of the 1700-1800-2000 variety.

I suggest you take a chance, but be prepared to spend money on it. As Amazer said, they are not a cheap car, although when fixed properly, they will give you hassle-free transport for a long time, with regular basic maintenance. :thumb

Hi rice_girl,
As was mentioned above, it's worth getting it inspected first just so you know what your up for. If it comes with a GOOD road worthy, it's at least had some one check it is drivable which is a good start. There are still shonky ones available though.
Depending on where in Brissy it is I can have a look for you if that helps?
Cheers,
Andy:thumb

Hmmmmmm $900

Will cost you lots more than that to get a reliable weekender. Brakes, suspension, steering($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) and engine work will all bump the price up and up and up. Then there is bodywork....... (dont ask)

If you plan on doing it all up, what is your budget? If you think you will just spend a bit here and there where it needs it you will end up overspending++++

I agree with the buy a good one from the start principle. I bought a heap, and with a lot of work have made it a reliable, well running heap. Still a heap though. Suits me as it can carry anything from mountainbikes to 60 rolls of turf (can you say lo-rider?) and I let the dogs loose in it. I use mine as an enclosed landcaping ute.....

You usually get what u pay for.

kkk

welcome to the kombi world rice girl!

Amazer, my kombi had severe rust in the top corners of the front clip, some in the rear roof beam, and one small patch on the drivers side front floor, but no other rust. interior was complete and functional, including fridge, came with new windscreen but needs windscreen, winding window and door rubbers, engine just needs rings and a new seal where it joins to gearbox, suspension, steering and transmission seem perfect, what should i have paid? $500 sound pretty cheap to you?

hey baybuscamperkid,

What did you do about the rust in the top corners??

My $500 had a bit of rust in the outer skin of the lower sills, looked like infected stonechips that grew until the po bogged over it.... had some rust fixed in the drivers floor (po), step rust (combo bog weld,) and a small hole left in the floor. Had done a rear bearing inc stuffed case from tight no3 exhaust valve stuffup on a long hot trip back up the coast... The dent in the passanger side was carefully installed by me :cry.

I really enjoyed doing it over, Im fixing the little surface rust, a few 'board dents on the roof and prepping for a respray, deciding what colour blue at present......

Rebuilt the brakes completely, except booster because its 28 years old. I dont want to find out the hard way. It drives heaps better for it.

Ricegirl, I would still buy a good one to start with. I am making one good, so I know its done right. Well, my idea of right for a price. That being said I have a decent work area, bench, lotsa tools and a compressor, lathe etc so I dont get in over my head. Usually (dont ask.) I also know what I am doing (usually... ) and if I dont, I know what questions to ask (most of the time...)And sometimes I have the talent to stuff it up completely

You will get a few conflicting opinions on this forum. It is however a rich source of information.

This is all my opinion, and worth exactly what you paid or it :P:P:P

Just dont get led by your heart too much and end up with an unreliable moneypit

:jesus:jesus:jesus

I will sit down now

Hi Rice_Girl
Looks like everything you could want to know has already been said.
So Ill just welcome you to the forum.
Rob.......

Hi Rice-Girl.
Well I say good on ya for being willing to start from scratch. Yeh maybe it will be a heap but maybe it is a great buy. If ya have a mate who is mechanicaly minded get them to have a look at it with ya. Also you should price what it is worth to get stuff fixed that you think will need doing to it, But of course the more work you can do yourself the better it will be for you. At least you will know what you have. It is just as easy to pay heaps of money for something that is full of bog, crap motor but a nice paint job.
Good luck with it.

Well here she is http://kombi.xtremeboost.org  ended up getting her down to $750

Floorboards?

It looks a lot better than I was expecting for 750 or even 900. Hope everything works out good for you.